I believe it's a clutching issue. At lower elevations we have too much hp and we're blowing through the clutching and we're going into a limp mode. My stage 3 set up is really finicky. I ended up trying a Gates CF belt this past weekend and it helped the sled be more consistent. There's also a slight issue with pipe heat too. I think clutching is the bigger issue. There's a thread on here about TRS N/A clutching. It has some good info. There's also a thread from SLP about over revving and running into limp mode.
My take on some Axys rpm/poer loss.
- Thread starter rx1tonofun
- Start date
I believe it's a clutching issue. At lower elevations we have too much hp and we're blowing through the clutching and we're going into a limp mode. My stage 3 set up is really finicky. I ended up trying a Gates CF belt this past weekend and it helped the sled be more consistent. There's also a slight issue with pipe heat too. I think clutching is the bigger issue. There's a thread on here about TRS N/A clutching. It has some good info. There's also a thread from SLP about over revving and running into limp mode.
Here's what I finally came up with for my SLP Stage 3 setup that works where I ride, 6-8000 foot. In the primary I use SLP Magnums with 2 setscrews and 1 lock screw with the blue pink spring. I've messed with the stock secondary and you can kind of get away with a 54/38 .35-.46 duration but I ended up with a TIED secondary running a 73/59 .46 cam with the blk pink spring. I'm also running the Gates belt for the AXYS RMK. I ended up with the PRO Quick drive pulleys and AXYS belt goes from a 1.95:1 to a 2.10:1 ratio. I can run it out to full shift and rpm, it runs hard. I ran against a Sidewinder and a King Cat and they can both get me on top end but out of the hole and to my top end they have to catch me. They don't blow by me either they just kind of creep by. If they hook up better it might be different, but I'll take it. It works good. Closer to 8000 foot it pulls down a bit 8100-8200 but it still pulls and doesn't sign off. I'll probably end up getting a little shallower finish angle cam to try next season.
I didn't come up with this on my own. I've had help from other members and I want to share this info because I know how frustrating it can be to lay down some hard earned cash and not get what you're expecting. I hope this helps, thanks for your time.
I didn't come up with this on my own. I've had help from other members and I want to share this info because I know how frustrating it can be to lay down some hard earned cash and not get what you're expecting. I hope this helps, thanks for your time.
I would also like to add for 8,000 to 10,000 ft for the SLP Stage III. SLP 61 gram magnum force weights with 1 set screw and one lock screw, slp blue pink primary, Tied secondary with black/purple spring and 70/57.46 helix. You will pull 8350 all day long on the hill with over 40 mph track speed(I saw a corrected mph of 43 mph in soft snow), closer to 8400 at 8,000 ft and closer to 8,300 rpm at 10,000 ft. Add 50 to 100 rpms for the trail. Clutch faces at warm at best and shift all the way out. This is with all the slp vents, tki 2.42 gearing, 162 camso 3p track, 6,000 to 8,000 heads with 18 thermostat, NGK Iridum plugs, gates carbon belt, fire and ice torque arm and bullydog programmer.
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Turned out to be exhaust valve bushings were worn and the valves were not closing completely. After new valves were installed my compression came back to normal. Still had the bog in deep snow. Dealer said tps was good but I found butterflies in throttle bodies uneven. I know they are not to be adjusted but I had nothing to lose. Readjusted the TPS and it runs great now. Still not revving as high as I would like but now is consistent and rarely bogs in the deep.
S
snobyrd
Well-known member
My bushings are also shot, almost 5000k on it, my parts are on back order for 2 weeks now and not due till April 15th. Outlaw gave me a stage 4 sled for 2 days, not worth the money it cost to do it but was great of them to give me a loaner, but I want my sled back.
Try to stick with stock Polaris weights.
Keep it alive!
First off i would like to thank all of you for contributing to this topic as it is a very common problem that i myself am experienceing.
Clutchs? From what i know the only difference between the axys clutch and the pro is the angle is now straight on the axis. If you sent your pro clutch to indy dan to work his magic it is now a axys clutch. I have tried my pro clutches on my axys with the older stock belt and experienced no difference in rpm loss. I tried many different belts and same problem. This was my way of eliminating the clutchs in question, and yes i swapped weights, springs, helixs. As a matter of fact my sks wil not pull 8300 no matter what? I even tried 68 weights with a 350 spring and no luck. She will rev more at 3/4 throttle and fade wfo. I am testing at 850ft.
I do not believe the main problem is clutches unless you have a noticable problem there.
Hot pipe? I do know from my grass dragging days and dyno sessions that some motors do like to be cold and have a hopt pipe. I seen this with the old zr700 would make another 10 hp. What we did was run 87 octane fuel to heat the pipe up faster. Could be a test for someone? set timing back and run 87 to heat the pipe up??
Bottom line is i see it for most people as a motor problem. Yes i know it can be clutches for some as we all know this but i am stating for most people.
My sled fells better at 3/4 throttle? It has to have something to do with motor not clutches. its flat out not making the power at wfo that my old pro does. If the axys motor is so much stronger it should rev those 68 weights with 350 spring to the moon? My pro does? I do not think that the minimal difference in hp from the axys to the pro should equal all this talk of loading the motor and require such drastic changes IMHO.
I am going to stay focused on the ecu, exhaust valves, tps, throttle bodies.
Anyways thanks guys and i will keep checking this thread for news. I have been wrong before so no worries if a am. Just want to figure it out.
First off i would like to thank all of you for contributing to this topic as it is a very common problem that i myself am experienceing.
Clutchs? From what i know the only difference between the axys clutch and the pro is the angle is now straight on the axis. If you sent your pro clutch to indy dan to work his magic it is now a axys clutch. I have tried my pro clutches on my axys with the older stock belt and experienced no difference in rpm loss. I tried many different belts and same problem. This was my way of eliminating the clutchs in question, and yes i swapped weights, springs, helixs. As a matter of fact my sks wil not pull 8300 no matter what? I even tried 68 weights with a 350 spring and no luck. She will rev more at 3/4 throttle and fade wfo. I am testing at 850ft.
I do not believe the main problem is clutches unless you have a noticable problem there.
Hot pipe? I do know from my grass dragging days and dyno sessions that some motors do like to be cold and have a hopt pipe. I seen this with the old zr700 would make another 10 hp. What we did was run 87 octane fuel to heat the pipe up faster. Could be a test for someone? set timing back and run 87 to heat the pipe up??
Bottom line is i see it for most people as a motor problem. Yes i know it can be clutches for some as we all know this but i am stating for most people.
My sled fells better at 3/4 throttle? It has to have something to do with motor not clutches. its flat out not making the power at wfo that my old pro does. If the axys motor is so much stronger it should rev those 68 weights with 350 spring to the moon? My pro does? I do not think that the minimal difference in hp from the axys to the pro should equal all this talk of loading the motor and require such drastic changes IMHO.
I am going to stay focused on the ecu, exhaust valves, tps, throttle bodies.
Anyways thanks guys and i will keep checking this thread for news. I have been wrong before so no worries if a am. Just want to figure it out.
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The axys likes a hot pipe and if you can't get it hot and keep it hot you will not pull rpm's at full throttle. There are many contributing factors and loading it the motor with proper clutching is the main one. Other factors include pipe temp sensor, bad plugs, tps, low compression, junk motor mounts, exhaust valves not opening all the way, and stock exhaust pipe stinger not tight enough. The the exhaust stingers do vary from pipe to pipe because they are a pressed fit and leaves horsepower on the board. Between checking and modifying your stock pipe and then loading it with the proper clutching you will pull the right rpm's.
I did mod my stinger and it worked great with a partial progressive helix. Then I went to the slp stage 3 with a tied and magnum force weights, running a 70-57.46 and it keeps a really nice load on the motor for a longer duration plus the magnum force weights have have moved the weight away from the pin and towards the heel, belly and tip, plus when you add weight it adds it mostly it the tip and will also load the motor more. I pull 8300 to 8400 rpm on the hill all day and have seen as high as 8500 rpm on the trail at a little llower altitude.
i understand what you are saying about loading the motor as i went through that learning curve back in the tripple to twin days. I would think 70 gram weights with the soft gold spring could qualify as loading a motor. I used to pull the correct rpm with stock clutching and now i dont. I want the motor to pull correct rpm as it did before and do not want to try and mask the problem with different clutching and helixs. Once i get that back i have no problems with mod weights, helixs ect. I am not saying you are masking it but how do you really know your not? could you put stock clutching back in and see if you get the 8300 back?
Thanks for your input.
My bad I was under the impression that you have never pulled correct rpm at full throttle, mine was one of those sled that didn't and there were so many others.
