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My summer project is finally coming around

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Kinzer... I asked KAWGRN this same question.... can you take a moment to get the same measurements?

KAWGRN.

Good post... lots of good info here.

a couple of questions that I hope you can take a few minutes to answer.
My sled is gettin the same track this week and I could use some accurate info.

1) Which driver and how many teeth did you go with?

2) Can you have a look at the 2 photos below and take some accurate measurements... the one up the tunnel is the most diffucult one and sometimes pieces of 1/4" plywood stacked can help with this measuremet.

Thanks for your help.
MH

track-1.jpg


frontoftunnel.jpg
 
went with the whal bros 8 tooth 3.0" pitch drivers for the time being will possibly switch to the new ones that robbie is making before the season starts... I will get those measurments for you tonight or in the morning before work.
 
okay... i'd say these measurments are give or take 1-2 tenths of an inch, all i had to measure with were some peices of .25" aluminum, but the front from the track to the bulkhead was 3/4" and the lug to the bottom of the cooler on the top of the tunnel was just over a half inch, (had two quarter inch plates of aluminum and there was a little more room) so i would say 5/8" clearance at that spot.
 
Thank you for checking guys... VERY MUCH!!

Good to know the real world measurements.

For those that are reading this... we are talking about the Arctic Cat 3" pitch, 153" long Power Claw, 2.25" tall lug tracks. Both Jkinzer and KAWGRN are running the 8 tooth, 3" pitch PPD drivers (avail from SLP, Whal Bros, and Carls). These are standard style, involute drivers and are very cost effective [$140/pair]

With the 8-Tooth, 3" pitch drivers in there and single ply track.... 5/8 of an inch clearance at the top 3/4" at the front (on a dragon with no front cooler).... not bad.

The 7 tooth, 3" pitch should give me just under 1/2" (.48') more clearance all around than the 8 tooth 3" pitch.
If I can get this 1.125" at the top and 1.25 at the front of the tunnel, I'll be VERY happy!

My only concern here is, how close the inside of the track will come to the upper cross tube of the front swing arm with the 7 tooth 3" pitch bringing the inside of the track a little more than 1/4" (.28) closer to this top tube. HMMM...

With the turbos, you guys shouldn't notice a whold lot of drag unless you were riding in very deep high moisture snow (like we get on the coast)

I'm working with Robbie at Avid right now to come up with a 7 tooth driver that is compatible with the slightly different drive nub arrangement on the Arctic Cat Power Claw tracks.... I'll keep you in the loop.
...
 
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here are a few pics of the new rear suspension drop down brackets, tried to make them appear like the stockers when installed but still be significantly stronger.
108_2290.jpg


as you can see the new brackets come all the way out to the edge of the running board riviting directly to the outer bar, the better boards, the original tunnel bottom, and the tunnel sides. should tie everything together very nicely.
 
do you have any pics of how your side panels attach?

this is the best picture i have on my computer, i will get a better one. but you can see the strap that comes over and straps the side pannel in... same as a hood strap does for the hood
 
Sled looks awesome! Really like the new running boards. Looks tough!

With all the venting you installed, did you remove the air plenum under the dash or cut it some how or just leave it stock? Is an intercooler something you would consider if the venting doesn't work or don't you like them?

Is the powder coating on the pipe anything special to resist the heat or isn't that a concern?
 
all under hood plastic is removed, and as of now i'm not a fan of intercoolers, but that could change this year, will try the water/meth injection first though. the powder coated pipe is just for show... i have another one that i will be using during the season
 
got most of the bar set up together tonight. still have to put the hand guards on tomarrow and finish some wiring, went with the single bolt 8" risers, carbon fiber straight race bars, rsi kill switch, billet throttle block, rsi heaters, ogi grips, and a black/white bar pad


 
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