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Mototrax long track not so long.

Contact

It's quite obvious that the Moto trax just has less flat rail contact on snow in comparison to a TS. The lack of something to control the rails from just tipping up and down is hurting it's deep snow performance. They ride great in my bikes but do have limitations I feel.
I felt like the TS skid left things to be desired as well which is why I'm using Moto trax skid this year.
 
variables

it's tough to say if any or all of the possibilities mentioned above are coming into play. what i have learned, with both sleds and bikes, is to try to narrow down where the lack of performance is on the same day you are experiencing it. this will hopefully give you a direction to improve. in Jnorth's case, if your buddy consistently motors you up a deep hill, run him across a meadow a few times. then run him in a harder packed area a few times. if he beats you everywhere, he either is making more power, weighs less, has a more efficient setup, or has a combination of these. assuming you have comparable power output and physical weight as your buddy, you should be more efficient/faster on the hard pack because you are spinning a lighter track with less fan effect because of a 2 inch paddle. he may still out climb you on that day because of the particular snow conditions but on a day where the snow isn't as dry, it may be a different story. remember, everything is a compromise. the yeti max track 2.5 gen 1 is great in dry blower but lacks in more set up snow hence the introduction of the gen 2, which, although i haven't tested side by side but, I would guess does not perform quite as well or maybe trenches a bit more than a gen 1. again, after looking at some of the basic variables and applying some common sense, you may discover a direction to focus on to improve performance.

fyi my seat height is 37.5".

jeff
 
it's tough to say if any or all of the possibilities mentioned above are coming into play. what i have learned, with both sleds and bikes, is to try to narrow down where the lack of performance is on the same day you are experiencing it. this will hopefully give you a direction to improve. in Jnorth's case, if your buddy consistently motors you up a deep hill, run him across a meadow a few times. then run him in a harder packed area a few times. if he beats you everywhere, he either is making more power, weighs less, has a more efficient setup, or has a combination of these. assuming you have comparable power output and physical weight as your buddy, you should be more efficient/faster on the hard pack because you are spinning a lighter track with less fan effect because of a 2 inch paddle. he may still out climb you on that day because of the particular snow conditions but on a day where the snow isn't as dry, it may be a different story. remember, everything is a compromise. the yeti max track 2.5 gen 1 is great in dry blower but lacks in more set up snow hence the introduction of the gen 2, which, although i haven't tested side by side but, I would guess does not perform quite as well or maybe trenches a bit more than a gen 1. again, after looking at some of the basic variables and applying some common sense, you may discover a direction to focus on to improve performance.

fyi my seat height is 37.5".

jeff

Totally agree with your statements. I expected the 137" TS to perform better in bottomless powder which it does. But I didn't expect that a 120" TS with a 2" track would out perform my 137" as well. That is why I started measuring. I am hopefull that adjusting my preload and strut length will improve the performance to at least somewhere in between the TS long and short. This kit is so impressive when it comes to how it handles and how nimble it is, that I will gladly give up the "high mark" trophy. I do know that on a flat land drag race on hard pack, the mototrax is hard to beat. My buddy and I both have identical bikes and weigh roughly the same. So that makes it easy to compare. Looking forward to trying again!
 
it's tough to say if any or all of the possibilities mentioned above are coming into play. what i have learned, with both sleds and bikes, is to try to narrow down where the lack of performance is on the same day you are experiencing it. this will hopefully give you a direction to improve. in Jnorth's case, if your buddy consistently motors you up a deep hill, run him across a meadow a few times. then run him in a harder packed area a few times. if he beats you everywhere, he either is making more power, weighs less, has a more efficient setup, or has a combination of these. assuming you have comparable power output and physical weight as your buddy, you should be more efficient/faster on the hard pack because you are spinning a lighter track with less fan effect because of a 2 inch paddle. he may still out climb you on that day because of the particular snow conditions but on a day where the snow isn't as dry, it may be a different story. remember, everything is a compromise. the yeti max track 2.5 gen 1 is great in dry blower but lacks in more set up snow hence the introduction of the gen 2, which, although i haven't tested side by side but, I would guess does not perform quite as well or maybe trenches a bit more than a gen 1. again, after looking at some of the basic variables and applying some common sense, you may discover a direction to focus on to improve performance.

fyi my seat height is 37.5".

jeff
Is that seat height with a Yamaha?

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 
Totally agree with your statements. I expected the 137" TS to perform better in bottomless powder which it does. But I didn't expect that a 120" TS with a 2" track would out perform my 137" as well. That is why I started measuring. I am hopefull that adjusting my preload and strut length will improve the performance to at least somewhere in between the TS long and short. This kit is so impressive when it comes to how it handles and how nimble it is, that I will gladly give up the "high mark" trophy. I do know that on a flat land drag race on hard pack, the mototrax is hard to beat. My buddy and I both have identical bikes and weigh roughly the same. So that makes it easy to compare. Looking forward to trying again!
That's wierd that it gets out done by the timbersled with the 2 inch... Tell me this when you are riding out on the roads will your ski push/glide/drift

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I think that one of the problems is the timbersled has a shock on the rear of the Rails this helps it's deep snow floatation but also adds unwanted ski pressure at times that makes it feel less like a bike. There is a device called skinz arc for sleds that adds pressure on the rear of the rails by coupling with a remote switch on the bars. I've heard from trusted source that it is like cheating on deep powder climbs but must be turned off for easy boon docking and side hilling. It makes to much ski pressure when it's coupled.
Also i have to say in the picture above looks like you guys are trying to hi mark like a sled which really isn't the forte of this sport. It's kind of like drag racing two Volkswagen beetles..... But It's always good for testing track performance.
 
Has anyone ever tried a very slight concave or convex bow to the rails longitudinally? Seems like even a 1/2" convex would help it feel more nimble in trail and packed while also performing well in soft. A slight concave might help in powder only.
 
That's wierd that it gets out done by the timbersled with the 2 inch... Tell me this when you are riding out on the roads will your ski push/glide/drift

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Yes, on hard pack or even groomed trail, the mototrax ski is a nightmare.
 
Yes, on hard pack or even groomed trail, the mototrax ski is a nightmare.

I'll second that. It is prayers and 100% focus on groomed trails. Logged about 60 miles on friday with 3 snowmobiles. Above 30mph anywhere but the straight sections was yikes.
 
Yes, on hard pack or even groomed trail, the mototrax ski is a nightmare.
OK I can share what I have found... I have got to the point where it is almost as good as the tsled on the road... I find you have to reduce ski pressure a lot if you are pushing.. on the road... I am still in the process but my triple clamps are almost as high on the forks as possible ... I am going to start dropping the rod tomorrow.... But as I lessen the ski pressure trenching becomes better along with control on the road... It stops searching out snowmobile ski tracks along with my pushing is almost gone.... In turn it handles even better in the powder.... For me it was turning better if I leaned back as far as I could and then would steer better if I was under acceleration... especially up hill. I am up to 4th gear on the roads feeling safe.

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Tomorrow I'm going go try machining a bigger flat surface on the back side of the d-bar to give it more trail. I can then flip it from stock to more offset for a really quick test. it will make the bar bend easier but that may me a good thing. It looks to thick to me and i have punished it hard and not bent it.
 
I wonder what happened to the MotoTrax guys that used to frequent this site??:face-icon-small-dis

The lack of participation from Moto-trax on helping owners sort out handling characteristics is noticeable. 100% they are reading these threads. Failing to engage in the discussion reflects poorly on their confidence in the product. They should be excited to create 100's of brand ambassadors by helping people dial stuff in. The 3 minute video on strut length and tightening the track was nice, but barely scratching the surface.
 
Has anyone ever tried a very slight concave or convex bow to the rails longitudinally? Seems like even a 1/2" convex would help it feel more nimble in trail and packed while also performing well in soft. A slight concave might help in powder only.

You mean like the kick-up at the rear of timbersled 137 rails?
 
Not even a day and you guys are whining about no support? Read wwillf01 post and try some adjustment instead of complaining that you aren't being spoon fed!

Yes, not even a day, actually 4 of them so far. What I would rather do is spend 5 of my 10 riding days this year wrenching on my sled in the trailer instead of expecting the people with the largest knowledge base (mototrax) to contribute their input after I gave them $5,000. I'm not asking them to show up and adjust it, just offer their feedback.

They were quite active in promotion, but after the sale is equally important.
 
I don't have a dog in this fight because I am broke and bought a used 14 t-sled kit last year, Didn't take me half the season to get dialed in though. I see where the mototrax guys park there truck and there is no way they are testing on the mountain because it is very far from where they start.
 
I think Moto-trax are at x games. Usually Zak gets back to me quick except when he's on the road.
 
You mean like the kick-up at the rear of timbersled 137 rails?
Sort of but more like just a gentle curve so gentle it can't even be seen unless you sight straight down. The powder wouldn't be able to tell but the hard pack might. Move the pressure contact center forward too possibly. I dunno, just spitballing
 
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