Mototrax long track not so long.
- Thread starter Jnorth
- Start date
450 sxf
Looking for someone with a sxf450 and has some insight on setup. Strut rod length and fender tip to tunnel distance. Moto trax 137
Looking for someone with a sxf450 and has some insight on setup. Strut rod length and fender tip to tunnel distance. Moto trax 137
Ok, I've done allot of mods to mine but this will get you as good as it will ever get with this kit. The 2" track sucks for deep snow get a 2.5 yetti or plan on staying in everyone else's tracks. Rode with camso, yetti and TS yesterday and they all worked way way wayyy better.
soften the rear suspension and crank the rebound to hard ( this makes rebound slower). Make your front forks SOFTER (think this hard fork setting thing is a huge misconception for mt riding, think about sleds). Forks extended out in triple clamps. (Sucking forks up in triple clamps puts more ski pressure)
Make sure your strut rod is 10.5" from center of shock top bolt to the top of the huge adjustable eyelet. This will balance out your rear. Your seat will be level and the flat portion of your rails will be pretty evenly distributed front to back when sitting off a stand.
Cut 1/8" off the front ski D bar where the D bar hits your fork. This will set the bolt in your ski behind your axle. Makes trail performance 10x better but honestly it still sucks. I'd take allot more off the D bar but afraid it wil bend. The mount allows way to much flex allowing the ski to steer itself, then you follow. I'll get a yetti or camo complete front kit.
soften the rear suspension and crank the rebound to hard ( this makes rebound slower). Make your front forks SOFTER (think this hard fork setting thing is a huge misconception for mt riding, think about sleds). Forks extended out in triple clamps. (Sucking forks up in triple clamps puts more ski pressure)
Make sure your strut rod is 10.5" from center of shock top bolt to the top of the huge adjustable eyelet. This will balance out your rear. Your seat will be level and the flat portion of your rails will be pretty evenly distributed front to back when sitting off a stand.
Cut 1/8" off the front ski D bar where the D bar hits your fork. This will set the bolt in your ski behind your axle. Makes trail performance 10x better but honestly it still sucks. I'd take allot more off the D bar but afraid it wil bend. The mount allows way to much flex allowing the ski to steer itself, then you follow. I'll get a yetti or camo complete front kit.
I'm in the process of making adjustments for better performance and greater comfort. These tips are helpful. I'm disappointed that the Mototrax was touted as a great trail machine. The front ski handling reminds me of the Snowhawk I rode a few years ago on the trail. It's very darty. Perhaps some more trail behind the front axle is needed. The Yeti is clearly located at least 2" behind the front axle.
Well I redrilled my mounting spindle to set back the ski and now it's about 1" behind axle center. I had hopes it would help my handling both in powder and on roads. It may have helped at parking lot speeds on ice, and the steering feels a little lighter but it didn't really seem to help dartiness or powder washing out at all unfortunately. The trail ride back to the truck last night had me doing some major tank slappers at one point that was only within my skill set by about 5%. In other words I almost ate it.
I would scrap making the bike look even like you would with wheels. The more and more I okay with it reducing front ski pressure a much as possible you loose dartiness and it handles better in the powder...Soon my seat will be slanted backwards the more I keep adjusting ...
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The way the ski mounts to the mount is way too loose. The rest of the ski mount is also flimsy. This allows the ski to dart arround and then the bike follows. You can't control what the ski is going to do if it's basically flopping arround. It also stays flat when you try to lean. Pretty sure this is why you can't hardly turn, you can't get it to go up on edge unless you really try, then it turns.
Last years ski mounted pretty solid and the mounting brackets were 1/2" thick instead of 3/8 like this year. Last years kit on same bike was decent enough but sucked off trail.
Last years ski mounted pretty solid and the mounting brackets were 1/2" thick instead of 3/8 like this year. Last years kit on same bike was decent enough but sucked off trail.
I'm not sure why you are having so much trouble with the ski spindle itself! I feel like that part is good just get the setback right. Maybe ne with stock holes was 2.5" behind axle center line. I move to 1". I only used Moto trax ski few test runs Normally use yeti which works great unless in crusty snow. TS is fair but washed out on side hill easily.
There are some things they are working on for skid but not sure it will match others in deep snow conditions. I'm giving them benefits of doubt at this time.
QUOTE=Seekins;4043998]The way the ski mounts to the mount is way too loose. The rest of the ski mount is also flimsy. This allows the ski to dart arround and then the bike follows. You can't control what the ski is going to do if it's basically flopping arround. It also stays flat when you try to lean. Pretty sure this is why you can't hardly turn, you can't get it to go up on edge unless you really try, then it turns.
Last years ski mounted pretty solid and the mounting brackets were 1/2" thick instead of 3/8 like this year. Last years kit on same bike was decent enough but sucked off trail.[/QUOTE]
There are some things they are working on for skid but not sure it will match others in deep snow conditions. I'm giving them benefits of doubt at this time.
QUOTE=Seekins;4043998]The way the ski mounts to the mount is way too loose. The rest of the ski mount is also flimsy. This allows the ski to dart arround and then the bike follows. You can't control what the ski is going to do if it's basically flopping arround. It also stays flat when you try to lean. Pretty sure this is why you can't hardly turn, you can't get it to go up on edge unless you really try, then it turns.
Last years ski mounted pretty solid and the mounting brackets were 1/2" thick instead of 3/8 like this year. Last years kit on same bike was decent enough but sucked off trail.[/QUOTE]
I lengthened my strut to get more ski presure and it works a lot better. I have also put a washer in the back to limit some of the skid movement along with a tighter track and it seems to help with trenching. I find if I'm moving it stays on top great once I start to trench it does not want to get out of it. It feels so close to being dialed in. I think part of that is yhe 2" track in this deep snow we keep getting. I never get the traction to move forward.
I am about done with splicing a 2.6 track and trying it out. Another thought I have is to make a skag like Ts or yeti for the center skag to see if it will track better. Like I said thought by lengthening the strut there is a HUGE difference. I can now go up the trail around the corners in 5th while the TS guys and way behind trying to keep up. Straight aways on freshly groomed trails it wants to be on an edge. When I first got the kit hated the trail now it's kinda fun.
Hope this helps someone.
