Lol dude don't even go there. I have been ultra patient and respectful but it's been a one way street. And it's a second year product, not first. I wanted to give these kids every benefit of the doubt but they are choosing a path of dishonesty and disrespect. Unless you've had first hand experience with them you might not be in a position to comment. The 10$ shipping is just an insult because it is such a small petty thing. I can afford it, I just don't feel like I should have to. Understand? I don't care what Polaris and cat do. If they treat their customers like **** then I don't think that's right either. It's not rocket science. Until they make any attempt to make things right on my kit by sending me something that keeps the ski attached and not bent, keeps the rubber things in the shock, keeps the track from dismounting itself, keeps the track tensioner from slipping, keeps the tunnel from disassembling and keeps the real slider from eating itself I'm gonna keep "whining".
MOTOTRAX FIXES tips and tricks
- Thread starter Norma Stitz
- Start date
Clearly these guys just don't get it. The ten bucks one way or the other isn't the issue and no it won't break anyone, its the optics that are in question here. Just by virtue of the fact that it's here in this thread and guys are unhappy can only go to further damage their reputation. Why be so cheap and stupid for ten bucks. If they had eaten the shipping guys would be on here raving about how they were taken care of instead it just another bad taste even if the parts cure the issues. TS pulled some of the same crap in the early years which pi$$ed me off at the time. If you accept mediocre customer service then that's what we will all be living with and at $5k a kit its just plain unacceptable IMO.
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I just got my updates ordered the other day. I'll wait to pass judgement on the $10 for shipping until after I ride it with said updates... hopefully next weekend. I'm really hoping it cures the trenching which is my biggest complaint!
SEEKINS' fixes AWESOME
Seekins' fixes work extremely well, Night & Day difference in how the bike performs. MT should incorporate this in next years kit with a re-design on the rails and rear coupler spindle. I made mine out of stainless that should cure the breaking issue.
Seekins' fixes work extremely well, Night & Day difference in how the bike performs. MT should incorporate this in next years kit with a re-design on the rails and rear coupler spindle. I made mine out of stainless that should cure the breaking issue.
Random question, bunch of you doing these fixes have shops with many tools.
I have a shop and a few tools..seems like a metal lathe and drillpress/miller is needed?
I have.
Cold cut metal saw
Tig welder
..lots of standard random hand power tools.
Whats the next #1 tool i need in my shop? for some of these fixes....or for general fab fun.
I have a shop and a few tools..seems like a metal lathe and drillpress/miller is needed?
I have.
Cold cut metal saw
Tig welder
..lots of standard random hand power tools.
Whats the next #1 tool i need in my shop? for some of these fixes....or for general fab fun.
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Sounds like you are ahead of the game. you can probably build one of these kits with tools you have.
An indexing head would be nice to have.
With the new parts they havnt addressed actual issues that will leave you stranded. The "throwing parts at it" engineering approach won't work. Just like their aluminum bushing doesn't work.
How would Polaris respond if their tracks wouldn't stay tight?
I figured out some geometry issues with the suspension and simple fixes. Just don't know how to post pics
How would Polaris respond if their tracks wouldn't stay tight?
I figured out some geometry issues with the suspension and simple fixes. Just don't know how to post pics
If Helico can figure out how to post pictures you can!
if not PM me and I can help post them for you
I think you can post them right from here, but i always upload mine to an external site and then post the link.
EDIT: I think you can upload here when you go to reply...yep you can..
if not PM me and I can help post them for you
I think you can post them right from here, but i always upload mine to an external site and then post the link.
EDIT: I think you can upload here when you go to reply...yep you can..
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Once you get to Manage attachments locate the pic on your computer using Browse on the right, highlight the pic once you locate it on your computer then click open. Go back to the manage page and click upload as the pic should now have appeared on the list.
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After you replace the track, ski, ski mount, fix suspension from binding, figure out how to keep the rails from driving off the track, replace the aluminum bushing with something that lasts more than 4 rides and modify other various parts so the kit fits.....you've got a chance 
16 Enduro Kit fixes/ ideas
First off, thanks everyone for the posts and ideas on how to set up the kit. I waited until February for all of my fit kit parts so lost most of the winter not riding... got kit in March 16.
Installed new bulkhead about two weeks after I got the original kit mounted. Took some drilling and persuasion due to misalignment of bolt holes. Have the carve ski and 17 ski mount. Kit is on 16 FE 501.
First ride- treacherous on wind blown snow. Super sketchy on the trail and felt like I was driving a Mack with no power steering.
Second ride- I lowered the seat height to about 1" below stock, drilled the ski mount to move the spindle back and shimmed the ski up. A mile down the trail, I was still hating life. Cranked the compression fork all the way. That seemed to make a pretty good difference. Rode 2-3' of powder all day with limited complaints, other than still feels like a lot of ski pressure. Never really get the feeling of ski washing out. Then comes the trail again... it was hard pack baked in the sun. If there were no ski tracks, I can go 5th gear and it's not too bad, but get into tracks and I'm holding on for dear life. Feels like the ski grabs every different line in the snow and I have to correct it. Then the whooped out trail the rear skid is bottoming out constantly. Also rear slider bushing is gone now and metal on metal banging on link. Haven't seen shipping notification for update that they emailed about yet.
So question is what do I do? Not riding this weekend but headed to Jackson in two for climbs!
Stiffer ski mount with better shim? I just shimmed back of ski mount with hard plastic as temporary which unintentionally allowed more flex.
Click up compression on rear shock?
Add spring/ bushing on rear slider?
Thanks!
First off, thanks everyone for the posts and ideas on how to set up the kit. I waited until February for all of my fit kit parts so lost most of the winter not riding... got kit in March 16.
Installed new bulkhead about two weeks after I got the original kit mounted. Took some drilling and persuasion due to misalignment of bolt holes. Have the carve ski and 17 ski mount. Kit is on 16 FE 501.
First ride- treacherous on wind blown snow. Super sketchy on the trail and felt like I was driving a Mack with no power steering.
Second ride- I lowered the seat height to about 1" below stock, drilled the ski mount to move the spindle back and shimmed the ski up. A mile down the trail, I was still hating life. Cranked the compression fork all the way. That seemed to make a pretty good difference. Rode 2-3' of powder all day with limited complaints, other than still feels like a lot of ski pressure. Never really get the feeling of ski washing out. Then comes the trail again... it was hard pack baked in the sun. If there were no ski tracks, I can go 5th gear and it's not too bad, but get into tracks and I'm holding on for dear life. Feels like the ski grabs every different line in the snow and I have to correct it. Then the whooped out trail the rear skid is bottoming out constantly. Also rear slider bushing is gone now and metal on metal banging on link. Haven't seen shipping notification for update that they emailed about yet.
So question is what do I do? Not riding this weekend but headed to Jackson in two for climbs!
Stiffer ski mount with better shim? I just shimmed back of ski mount with hard plastic as temporary which unintentionally allowed more flex.
Click up compression on rear shock?
Add spring/ bushing on rear slider?
Thanks!
sounds like you're getting it dialed in. You're about where we all are now too. The main issues you have are not being addressed by the mfg at all and it seems they won't be. They have a 400$ upgrade kit that might help but I haven't seen any first hand reports on that. I probably won't be sending any of my hard earned cash their way again. Take extra slider bushings and a slider in case it breaks, which it probably will. Your plastic shimming on the front ski rubber is spot on. Might want to order a spare rubber too.
This summer I will be doing some heavy duty mods to my kit me thinks.
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'16 Scout fixes/ ideas
First off, thanks everyone for the posts and ideas on how to set up the kit. I waited until February for all of my fit kit parts so lost most of the winter not riding... got kit in March 16.
Installed new bulkhead about two weeks after I got the original kit mounted. Took some drilling and persuasion due to misalignment of bolt holes. Have the carve ski and 17 ski mount. Kit is on 16 FE 501.
First ride- treacherous on wind blown snow. Super sketchy on the trail and felt like I was driving a Mack with no power steering.
Second ride- I lowered the seat height to about 1" below stock, drilled the ski mount to move the spindle back and shimmed the ski up. A mile down the trail, I was still hating life. Cranked the compression fork all the way. That seemed to make a pretty good difference. Rode 2-3' of powder all day with limited complaints, other than still feels like a lot of ski pressure. Never really get the feeling of ski washing out. Then comes the trail again... it was hard pack baked in the sun. If there were no ski tracks, I can go 5th gear and it's not too bad, but get into tracks and I'm holding on for dear life. Feels like the ski grabs every different line in the snow and I have to correct it. Then the whooped out trail the rear skid is bottoming out constantly. Also rear slider bushing is gone now and metal on metal banging on link. Haven't seen shipping notification for update that they emailed about yet.
So question is what do I do? Not riding this weekend but headed to Jackson in two for climbs!
Stiffer ski mount with better shim? I just shimmed back of ski mount with hard plastic as temporary which unintentionally allowed more flex.
Click up compression on rear shock?
Add spring/ bushing on rear slider?
Thanks!
First off, thanks everyone for the posts and ideas on how to set up the kit. I waited until February for all of my fit kit parts so lost most of the winter not riding... got kit in March 16.
Installed new bulkhead about two weeks after I got the original kit mounted. Took some drilling and persuasion due to misalignment of bolt holes. Have the carve ski and 17 ski mount. Kit is on 16 FE 501.
First ride- treacherous on wind blown snow. Super sketchy on the trail and felt like I was driving a Mack with no power steering.
Second ride- I lowered the seat height to about 1" below stock, drilled the ski mount to move the spindle back and shimmed the ski up. A mile down the trail, I was still hating life. Cranked the compression fork all the way. That seemed to make a pretty good difference. Rode 2-3' of powder all day with limited complaints, other than still feels like a lot of ski pressure. Never really get the feeling of ski washing out. Then comes the trail again... it was hard pack baked in the sun. If there were no ski tracks, I can go 5th gear and it's not too bad, but get into tracks and I'm holding on for dear life. Feels like the ski grabs every different line in the snow and I have to correct it. Then the whooped out trail the rear skid is bottoming out constantly. Also rear slider bushing is gone now and metal on metal banging on link. Haven't seen shipping notification for update that they emailed about yet.
So question is what do I do? Not riding this weekend but headed to Jackson in two for climbs!
Stiffer ski mount with better shim? I just shimmed back of ski mount with hard plastic as temporary which unintentionally allowed more flex.
Click up compression on rear shock?
Add spring/ bushing on rear slider?
Thanks!
What my friend on a timbersled told me, and seems to work. is don't fight it on the trail, try to keep it on an edge. I noticed if i am constantly leaning it over under me like a mountain bike it doesn't fight my arms.
It does feel like it has a TON of ski pressure and my strut is as short as it will go. I have an airpro kit to install here before this weekend hopefully that helps without me re-springing again
I'm running a 500 XC-W and I'm running 15lbs in my air pro and it helped the heavy steering along with washouts.
If your strut rod is to tall it will give it a heavy feeling also. I cut about 3/8 of an inch off my hiem and strut rod to get the desired height.
If your strut rod is to tall it will give it a heavy feeling also. I cut about 3/8 of an inch off my hiem and strut rod to get the desired height.