Almost 2 months rubbers have not come off.
Retains the original feel of the track
Don' t increase the thickness or the diameter of the large side of the retainer it will bend or break.
MOTOTRAX FIXES tips and tricks
- Thread starter Norma Stitz
- Start date
Almost 2 months rubbers have not come off.
Retains the original feel of the track
Don' t increase the thickness or the diameter of the large side of the retainer it will bend or break.
Are you sliding that over stock bushing?
Yes , I used 1 1/4'' Al pipe bored the ID to fit over the OD of the retainer
Just to be extra clear, tube or pipe? I want to make these tomorrow!
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Well that truly is pipe, but it's 1" pipe. Pipe is sold by ID and tube is OD, and pipe is usually very generous on the ID as you see here. Don't think I have any.
Here is my adjustable strut rod. Tractor Top Link, currently running it at 13.5" center to center (2012 350xcf-w; 129 kit). This seems to be the best setting that I have found so far. Any shorter and the ski is way to sketchy on the trail. I have also found that the ski edge skags should be longer; during aggressive turn-ins, the front end can wash out because there isn't enough skag in contact with the snow. Another observation that helps with trail manners: just rail the bike; when I'm cooking down the trail in 6th gear, the bike runs much straighter than when just trying to gently cruise.
Brake caliper studs replaced with bolts and nylocks.
Brake caliper studs replaced with bolts and nylocks.
Interesting how does the caliper float?
I made a bridgey thingy for my brake. Inspired by my dog.
I can't quite tell from the photo - is the bridgey thingy using the same posts, or did you replace them with longer bolts as well?
My posts have stayed tight so far, but it's something I've come to check every time I stop (along with the heim joint rubber stops, rear slider bushing, rear idler air dampers, axle bolt...)
My posts have stayed tight so far, but it's something I've come to check every time I stop (along with the heim joint rubber stops, rear slider bushing, rear idler air dampers, axle bolt...)
Yes i drilled and tapped the factory posts for #10 machine screws and lock tited the crap out of them. Haven't tested it yet.
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Made a snubber for the slider mounted on the coupler arm. Hoping it will soften the blow to the metal bits back there. Thoughts?
This is the first time i have seen anyone talk about the short carbides! I too have had some washout issues, going downhill- the carbides seem too short...?
I have built some additional runners and added them to the ski edges. If they work, I'll post pics.
I'm planning the same thing. I'll wait to see how yours turn out. I was thinking 2 1/2" to 3" 45 degree sponsons would do the trick.
My upgrades
Here's what I've done so far. I'm in the process of making the rear billet T out of stainless instead of aluminum this will cure two problems 1) durability, you won't be breaking it (to small of a dia to be alum, some parts just should not be alum to "save weight"). 2) It will eliminate the Alum on Alum wear surface (still can't get over this as a fix to the problem). The others are self explanatory. On a Yamaha the plates are a must IMO. The fork ends are made of magnesium and have very thin side walls, I also increased the spindle to 10mm from 8mm. I'm not a big fan of carbides so I made new and kind of copied Woodies dual wear bar design. This really helps eliminate the darting when going down the groomed trail (night and day difference) As far as I'm concerned it is a must with this ski design. The guard on top of the secondary chain drive is a no brainer, can't believe that they like all that grease flinging everywhere, including the rider.
Here's what I've done so far. I'm in the process of making the rear billet T out of stainless instead of aluminum this will cure two problems 1) durability, you won't be breaking it (to small of a dia to be alum, some parts just should not be alum to "save weight"). 2) It will eliminate the Alum on Alum wear surface (still can't get over this as a fix to the problem). The others are self explanatory. On a Yamaha the plates are a must IMO. The fork ends are made of magnesium and have very thin side walls, I also increased the spindle to 10mm from 8mm. I'm not a big fan of carbides so I made new and kind of copied Woodies dual wear bar design. This really helps eliminate the darting when going down the groomed trail (night and day difference) As far as I'm concerned it is a must with this ski design. The guard on top of the secondary chain drive is a no brainer, can't believe that they like all that grease flinging everywhere, including the rider.
I forgot this fix
This was a fix I did to my daughters and my kits that, frankly I can't believe they missed this, but I put a S/S "cap" on top of the rear spindle shoulder to increase the diameter to be slightly larger than the rear slider dia. the stock size acts like a gasket punch and just tries to go up into the rear slider tube. That is the main reason the original nylon bushings failed.
This was a fix I did to my daughters and my kits that, frankly I can't believe they missed this, but I put a S/S "cap" on top of the rear spindle shoulder to increase the diameter to be slightly larger than the rear slider dia. the stock size acts like a gasket punch and just tries to go up into the rear slider tube. That is the main reason the original nylon bushings failed.
^nice mods!^
I tried my rubber egg bumper yesterday and it worked well. I know it was hitting a lot as I was popping over bumps and trying to land on the back and carry the ski a little. When I got back it had created a perfect polished ice button on the bolt head where it was impacting the rubber snubber. Kinda neat. However my aluminum bushing is also egging out HARD after only like 3 rides. So, that needs a better solution.
I tried my rubber egg bumper yesterday and it worked well. I know it was hitting a lot as I was popping over bumps and trying to land on the back and carry the ski a little. When I got back it had created a perfect polished ice button on the bolt head where it was impacting the rubber snubber. Kinda neat. However my aluminum bushing is also egging out HARD after only like 3 rides. So, that needs a better solution.
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