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More electrical power to turbo pro

T

tfry

Member
i am in need of more electrical power on my 2012 turbo assault. the stators on these things suck. Has anyone wired a battery into these things with much electrical success? wanna run an egt gauge along with my current a/f gauge and boost gauge. as it sits it barely powers the a/f gauge at idle and wont even light up my boost gauge. removed light from boost gauge and helped a bit but want more power!
 
You can try a few different things to get more power. One is run only one headlight or no headlight at all. Turn off hand and thumb warmers. Anything to give more electrical power.

One thing to keep in mind when installing is, a battery is only good for spikes or surges. If your elctrical system can only but out lets say 300 watts and it take 400 watts to run all your electrical system you are short 100 watts. The only thing you will do is drain 100 watts our of you batter till its dead. You will never be able to charge your battery.

This is the first time that I have heard of not having enough power to run everything on a polaris. Usally it cats that have the not enough power problem.

What all beside the stock do you have runing?

I.e AFR,EGT,Oil pump for turbo, things like that.

You make just have to many gauges.

Mike
 
Im running a innovate a/f gauge, fuel controller, oil pump for turbo, than standard stuff like headlights and what not. even at a idle around 1700rpm barely has enough juice to fire up the a/f gauge. had to take the light out of the boost gauge cause there was to much power draw. could possibly have a bad ground?
 
The Pros have limited power output. Ours need a few seconds for the wideband to warm up before taking off or they will have issues. I have unplugged one headlight and am considering putting a switch on them.
 
How did you wire it?

The AFR gauge is actually a high draw item... not just a gauge... It requires a heater in the sensor that draws a fair amount of power.

The stock stator puts out 400 watts, same as the Dragons before it.

Where, exactly, are you tapping off of for your power? (got pix??)

If you are tapped into the wrong place.. you could be causing damage to the electrical system.

The DC portion only has limited output... mostly for the ECU/fuel system...and maybe a small charger for gps etc.

The AC portion, which would need to be recified/regulated, for high draw items like AFR lambda sensor heaters, pumps, lights etc is a better choice.
 
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skinz headlight delete here, helped the issue quite a bit. i'd at least put a switch so you can turn headlights off...oh, I also make sure grip heaters are off when starting, then i'll flick them on when underway.

settin your idle to 1900-2000 will help a bunch btw
 

The AC portion, which would need to be recified/regulated, for high draw items like AFR lambda sensor heaters, pumps, lights etc is a better choice.

Is there something on the market that can easily convert 12VAC to 12VDC so one can move some DC load to the AC circuit?
 
Is there something on the market that can easily convert 12VAC to 12VDC so one can move some DC load to the AC circuit?

just go to an eletronics store and ask for ac to dc bridge rectifier. For a rectifier that can handle <6 amps, the eletronics store here has them for about 3 ~ 4 bucks.
 
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