C tec uses different clutch weights, no set screw, weight is free to move
Mds weights worth it on the alpha?
- Thread starter Vern
- Start date
Yeah, it definitely acts more like an overweighted clutch vs a tune issue. Although i can't say my '20 feels like anything special compared to any of the older 800s in the group, considering how everyone raves about the ctec power compared to the zukes.
I wasn't comparing it to a Suzuki, the 18 is a Ctec
I'm aware, I was talking in general from all the praise the ctecs have got since '18
my 16 definitely had a better engine but the 18 and newer has a much better chassis, and I'm liking the Alpha 165
I've got no complaints overall, I may have just been expecting to much with all the hype from everyone. It runs with the other 800s in the group, but my brothers '14 with just mds clutching (as far as we know) will out run it by a good sled length or more.
When I had the cover off with the mds weights they appeared to swing freely all the way through. The performance was kinda weird with the clutching in. short bursts like in the trees where your on the throttle for just a sec or two before letting off it would hit 8000 rpm, but as soon as I went wide open for any longer than that rpm wouldn't go above about 7600.
M
MDS
Well-known member
This post has just been brought to my attention. ( I apologize I don't visit this site very often) I've been to 9500ft. or so and haven't had the problems with the 20 165 or the 154s . But did ride a 165 with problems described in this post it had someone else's clutch kit in it, it would spike 8000 then drop off to 75-7600 wide open throttle, weird to say the least. After messing around with the obvious stuff changing belts, grams, etc..., I adjusted the throttle free play so the throttle blades opened wide with the the throttle to the bar, then took it out and it went to 8200 wide open and held it's RPM's all the time, actually add some grams back to get the 8050-8150 zone. Have no insight to why this worked but it did. As for the the guys with MDS kits that say they can't hold their RPMs on their 20s I'd suggest trying the Venom 130/280 primary spring. For you MDS Kit owners feel free to contact me anytime at 509-899-0605.
Same, I checked all kinds of things. Throttle, exhaust valve cables, swapped exhaust probe, had dealer run a scan on the sled at Steve’s recommendation. Everything always checked out but couldn’t pull the Mds weights. It would pull rpm with the stock weights, but I never felt it ran as good as everyone made the ctec sound, but I might have just had to high of expectations from all the hype.
Has anyone with a 2020 ran it against a similar 2019?
My 19 is impressive, the deeper the snow the more impressive it is. MDS weights, pulls consistent RPM and an impressive track speed.
What is different between the clutches on the 2 yrs? If clutches are indeed identical, then i would think that the 2020 makes less power if it can't pull the same weight as a 2019.
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My 19 is impressive, the deeper the snow the more impressive it is. MDS weights, pulls consistent RPM and an impressive track speed.
What is different between the clutches on the 2 yrs? If clutches are indeed identical, then i would think that the 2020 makes less power if it can't pull the same weight as a 2019.
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That was my thinking, that the ‘20 may be detuned a bit for longevity or something. With companies like jaws saying that no tuning is required to run there pipe on the ‘20 but you must tune the ‘18-19 there’s gotta be something to it.
I’ve never rode a stock 18-19 ctec so I can’t compare, but I know my ‘20 struggles to keep up with the Zukes in the group.
My 14 zuke with 153x3in claw, jaws pipe, mds weights, rips. I was impressed with that sled, it had no problem keeping up with or slightly beating the 18 162x3 mtn cat. My 19 Alpha will straight whoop it. Huge difference between the two in deep snow.
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Eric at BDX told me on the phone that the stock head on the 2020 models is "anti Horsepower". He said it's almost like they tried to detune it from the 2019 models. So your theory has some merit. Perhaps an aftermarket head or replacement cylinder domes are in order?
I know Polaris used to do that. have a hot first year engine, then detune it in the following years. Weird thing is that some folks say their 20 runs better than their ‘19, although that could just be in the mind not wanting to be disappointed by your new $14k purchase, and I thought that bikemans dunno last year showed a few more ponies on the ‘20. I’ve got an email from racinstation from last year saying they switched to cutlers weights on the ‘20s as well because they couldn’t get Mds to run on them so there’s definitely something going on with the ‘20s.
Do us a favor and swap the entire primary clutch, see if the problem follows the clutch or the engine.
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I sold the 18
The 18 and 19 share the same clutch part number 0746-885, and spring 0646-482.
The 20 and 21 also share the same clutch part number 0746-895, and spring 0646-473.
All 4 model years use the same weight part number.
My 20 pull 8250 all day with the stock weights same as the 19 I rode. If there is a power difference I can't feel it with the butt dyno.
I did feel the difference when I geared it down, 18 tooth top gear. Better response in the tree type riding.
Correct, but the MDS weights I used in my 2018 will not work in my 2020, for whatever reason
