Matryx Boost WOT Bog

[Chadly]

So… from the first pic I removed the ball plunger from the Mnt tech intake. The ball plunger seemed like a pretty small area for any additional under hood air IMO. Now the full width of the Mnt tech air intake tube is open to the outerwear filter. A lot more air flow now, and always available vs waiting for the plunger to open from clogged outside air intakes.

The other photo shows the area that I cut a 5”X3” rectangle out of the stock air box, and taped SLP prefilter across the opening. Similar idea to the Fire n Ice setup. Not as pretty, but just as functional IMO.

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I wonder if you can log your intake temps to see what they are. That has to rob HP by sucking in warm air. I also wonder if thr ECU compensates for the warmer air. One of your keyboard jockey nerds has to have an opinion about this...

 

[billdelong6384]

I wonder if you can log your intake temps to see what they are. That has to rob HP by sucking in warm air. I also wonder if thr ECU compensates for the warmer air. One of your keyboard jockey nerds has to have an opinion about this...

I think my Ez Lynk can log details like that. I had a buddy who had a M8 boondocker turbo and 100% of his air intake came from an internal airsock prefilter tower deal.

I don’t know. I can always go back in and block off any internal under the hood air. I know cold air is best, but any air is better than no air. I’ll see how my adjustments work out here soon.

Thanks again everyone for your thoughts! I’m sure this will help other boost owners having the same big issues.


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[Wheel House Motorsports]

Ez lynk can for sure display that. They call it boost temperature I believe is the PID.

From many years of building turbo mods I can assure you more outside air is the solution. Not just going underhood.

The amount of response and overall power you give up by going to 100*+ inlet air vs 30* or colder is astounding. Also you get det codes and generally poor runability all over because of it. The ecu is correcting to all he'll to keep your 200* + charge Temps from detoninating making it slow and boggy.

 

[Teth-Air]

My sled is still bogging in over the hood snow even with the Mnt tech air intake. It seemed better, but still not good. I’m going to add more under hood air intake with prefilter covering holes I’ll add to the air box where I can. It seems like it’s just running too rich due to lack of air, then it can’t pull itself out of its funk once it bogs. I’m also considering going with an aftermarket tune to lean it out a bit. Frustrating….


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Just pull the push darts to relaese the intake from the hood and let it pull air from the engine bay for a quick test to see if it still bogs. be careful nothing gets sucked through the turbo blades by putting a pair of your wifes pantyhose over the opening.

 

[billdelong6384]

Now my sled has gone from an annoying powder bog to a full on sounds like it’s running on one cylinder. Did a compression test and both side are around 115 psi. PTO plug looks ok MAG side is really wet.

I’m starting to think maybe injector / injectors started going and now have really **** the bed? 3,500 miles on the 22 Boost 165.

Any thoughts on bad injector issues being the cause?


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[Sheetmetalfab]

Now my sled has gone from an annoying powder bog to a full on sounds like it’s running on one cylinder. Did a compression test and both side are around 115 psi. PTO plug looks ok MAG side is really wet.

I’m starting to think maybe injector / injectors started going and now have really **** the bed? 3,500 miles on the 22 Boost 165.

Any thoughts on bad injector issues being the cause?


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Leak down test……

 

[billdelong6384]

Don’t have the means to do a leak down test.


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[Sheetmetalfab]

Don’t have the means to do a leak down test.


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Local dealer should

 

[billdelong6384]

Yeah. I think it’ll be going in to the dealer regardless. Just trying to get together where I want to direct them. So far I’m thinking injector issues, but looking for opinions…


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[Teth-Air]

Has it has the electrical connectors fixed that the 22's had issue with?

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

Often if a polaris sounds like it’s running on one cylinder….

It’s because it has a dead cylinder and needs a rebuild.

3500 miles is more than I’ve seen on any original 850 engine.

(3 axys 850’s have gotten new top ends in our group around 3k miles)

Just lost the running compression on one cylinder.

 

[billdelong6384]

It got a brand new short block motor end of last season. Only 500 miles on the new motor.


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[Teth-Air]

It got a brand new short block motor end of last season. Only 500 miles on the new motor.


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Some had bad connectors, some bad coils, some bad injectors, and some had bad fuel pumps. I doubt your pistons are bad if they both have 115 PSI compression and it only has 500 miles on it.

 

[live2beel]

Maybe a coil.

 

[billdelong6384]

Good thoughts guys. We’ll see. Once it’s figured out I’ll get back on what it was.


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[brandon1]

Good thoughts guys. We’ll see. Once it’s figured out I’ll get back on what it was.


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I didn't see if you had checked the intake boots for cracks? I know last year when mine were cracked and I had the common boost leak because of it, I could feel boost build then it went flat, the deep snow bog on top of that made it seem pretty weird.

 

[Murph]

Ez lynk can for sure display that. They call it boost temperature I believe is the PID…..

The amount of response and overall power you give up by going to 100*+ inlet air vs 30* or colder is astounding. Also you get det codes and generally poor runability all over because of it. The ecu is correcting to all he'll to keep your 200* + charge Temps from detoninating making it slow and boggy.

There are two air temp sensors.
Intake air temp in cold air intake.
Boost temp in boost box.

 

[Murph]

I didn't see if you had checked the intake boots for cracks? I know last year when mine were cracked and I had the common boost leak because of it, I could feel boost build then it went flat, the deep snow bog on top of that made it seem pretty weird.

I also had hard to diagnose issue with split intake boots

 

[diamonddave]

It’s worth a try to swap a coil from another sled. Easy Peasy

 

[Chadly]

I think you need to junk that sled and go buy a new 24 Boost. They run way better than 22s and 3,000 miles is 2,000 past its life span.