m7 bad bog, need help quick.

[polemite.productions]

mine sagged much more. at least half a hole out. with the new block, hole alignment is near perfect. so i'd say yours is at least a little worn.

still haven't run mine yet. been taking it easy. so i wont claim that this is definitely the fix yet. but i've got a good feeling about it.

 

[cbmatt]

if thats not the case, an m7 electrical problem of 4 extra or less than normal volts can cause your ecu to go into fail safe mode which wont allow the engine to hit high rpms to prevent damage while letting you limp home. dont know if its as extreme as your talkin about but an idea. also, make sure you run iso heet in pow. water in the fuel happens

 

[polemite.productions]

injesting snow, or a short due to melted snow on a connector were 2 of the possibilities that ran through my mind at the time for sure. didn't see any clear evidence of it at the time, but if the lights go out again now that she's all dried out, i'd be willing to bet that could have been part of the problem. those broken bolts sure weren't helping, thats for sure.

 

[scrfce]

Hey pol if its still runnin like crap when u get a chance to try it id bet my left nut that its chipped and or cracked reeds. Ive had the exact issues you described twice and recently only a few days ago and it was the reeds.

My sled progressively got worse with the bogging, at first i could feather it to full WOT (reeds would finally fully open so the cracks, chips dont matter) just like yourself, then after a bit itd only hit the 6k range and i figure thats because the reeds end up breaking enuf that it just floods even wen theyre fully closed.

Definately check them to rule it out

 

[polemite.productions]

i did get it to wind up nicely after i took the belt off back at home. but running unloaded can be quite different from running loaded. definitely keep it in mind. thanks.

 

[polemite.productions]

finally got everything back together and fired up today, and WOW does that engine run smooth now. there was a lot of vibration before, which i wrote off as being caused by the solid motor mounts, but now with the new block under the motor, and the torque stop adjusted tight, it is very smooth running. the difference is VERY noticeable. can't wait to try it on the snow.

 

[polemite.productions]

well so much for testing on the snow. went to try it out today and quickly found out that my broken bolts were only part of the problem.

the motor is running on 1 cylinder. the spark for the pto side cylinder is very weak. i did find that if i ran until the rpm got up to about 7000, it woke up and took off, but it would die again if i let it drop. i'm guessing that the ignition coil is weak/damaged.

just to eliminate a few variables, i trimmed each plug wire at both ends, cleaned out the caps, and tried a new set of plugs. no change.

thinking back, i did notice that the pto side plug looked like it had been running fatter earlier in the season. i took this as a fueling issue at the time, and made trim adjustments on my boondocker. but i think that the reality is that the spark had been weak, but still strong enough to fire the cylinder.

so i think that the bog i was originally getting was the coil finally getting so bad that the cyl wouldn't fire any more, and that although the motor mount bolts weren't helping, they were more of a coincidence than anything.

 

[scootdog]

hey polemite reviving this thread.

Did you ever get your M7 sorted out?

I think I say in another thread you bought a PC?

Anyways how hard is to replace snubber under engine? IS it just removing bolts and taking weight of rubber and sliding it out, then sliding new in?

If you have any tips that would be great.

Thanks Scott

 

[polemite.productions]

the one under the engine is a real pain. i pulled the belly pan and pried up on the motor while the mounts were unbolted, till i could slip it out, and slip the new one in. it was tight.

yes i got it all sorted out. turned out that i had several problems all happening at once, which made trouble shooting difficult.

i had the bad motor mount bolts and sagging motor. (shearing bolts problem resolved)

water in the main hood wiring harness connector (dash light problems resolved)

bad ignition coil and bad spark plug boot. i think the bad boot took out the coil. (weak spark resolved)

but the main cause of my bog was a broken reed peddle. changed out the reeds. most of the other peddles had small chips in them too.

after all this, that sled ran amazing!

if you want details about my troubleshooting, just ask.

 

[ss_badaz]

Good to know about this, I just discovered my on and off bog problem few days back. Bare wire going to the injector right at the fuel rail, was rubbing on the heat shield.

 

[scootdog]

I put sno pro mount in mag side, last year. It's torn already. Thinking of 06 mounts this time harder duro, another thread said lasted the longest. That new snubber under engine and pto side. Should hold it steady.