m7 bad bog, need help quick.

[polemite.productions]

hey guys, i just finished day 3 of a 4 day trip, and today i developed a crazy bad bog.

sled is an 05 m7, with the 06 ecu reflash, and i'm running the rkt 800 bb, speedwerx pipe, superq can, and boondocker box.

motor has always run super strong. never had this problem before.


we were doing a whole bunch of boondocking in waist deep pow, and i started to get a periodic bog. i wrote it off as being the typical bog that sometimes happens when the exhaust port gets plugged with pow... however it started getting worse untill it wouldn't go away.

exhaust was clean of snow, clutches seemed fine. plugs looked like one cyl was running slightly lean, and the other looked rich.

tried different plugs, no change. disconnected my boondocker and ran without it, and was able to get it to run like normal, but would lose it again if i let off the throttle. could get the revs up again if i feathered the throttle a few times.

if i shut down, sled still fires up no prob on the first pull.

noticed that i've got a check gauges light lit up all the time. managed to limp the entire way back down the trail, but ran with the bog the entire way. actually seemed like feathering the throttle a few times wasn't working any more. sled sounds bad, and wont get above 6300 rpm on the trail.

thinking that this is electrical.

short to ground somewhere?
something got wet while banging through all that pow?

please help!!!

 

[aphoric]

Bog that gets worse, check your clutches again, could be a stuck roller. Saw a broken spring on a secondary yesterday, seemed like a tuning issue at first. Just make sure to go over it again, I think it's easy to overlook some issues.

 

[leadfoot33]

i had an 06 do this and it was ingesting to the point that the airbox in the nose was full of ice. check it out and see. ya never know.

 

[cumminshp]

Also are you flashing a code at all ?

 

[mthoodskiguy]

Check the servo cables!!

If the cables pop out in the servo box it's gets real boggy.. When I rode it if you shut it off it would work again till u hit certain rpm's.. my buddy deals with this issue on his m7 regularly.. I seriously think it might be ur issue..

 

[cumminshp]

If the cables pop out in the servo box it's gets real boggy.. When I rode it if you shut it off it would work again till u hit certain rpm's.. my buddy deals with this issue on his m7 regularly.. I seriously think it might be ur issue..

Thats what i was thinking. If he has code 6 thats what its for is servo motor. I had my sled start bogging and sounding like crap had code 6 so came home and fixed it one of my wires was snapped and other one broken so i replaced them both.

 

[polemite.productions]

i didn't see anything flashing at all. i imagine that the check gauges light is what flashes?

ingesting snow/water was another thing i was considering. the snow was really deep and fluffy. sled was running awesome until i banged around in the pow for a while. i'll pull that airbox out when i get a chance.

couldn't spot anything wrong with the clutches, but i'm not really suspecting them, because the motor isn't even idling quite right. its down about 300-400rpm from normal (primary is not binding on the belt). which does make me think of another possibility- i've got about 10 rides on a new throttle cable, and i'm wondering if it's stretched, or slightly out of adjustment some how, and the tps isn't happy? just a thought. still gonna take a closer look at the secondary though.

power valve cables are still attached to the servo, but i haven't checked to see if one could be broken. good idea. although, i did once have one cable jump off the servo before, and it didn't run nearly as bad as it is right now. so again, its not really something i'm suspecting.

still a bit baffled. we cut the trip short today because of the weather. sled fired right up in the morning and i loaded on the trailer no prob. but its still got this bog. i'd almost say that its like shes only running on one cylinder... gonna check compression too.

 

[Arctic Thunder]

we found on an M7 this past week that the inside to the aftermarket can started to come apart. It was restricting the exhaust. would bog midrange up.

Something to check.

Thunder

 

[m8magicandmystery]

im going with snow in the airbox

 

[rigrat]

My 06 M7 had similar issues. Secondary clutch was toast.

 

[cumminshp]

So many variables probably most common is servo motor/wires or snow got in intake or something and froze or the can packing is sometimes weak on aftermarket cans. Take the can off and shake it see if it sounds like "christmas morning" lol. Take the boot off intake and shove your hand in the hole see if anything is frozen there or at the nose of the sled. Pull cover off servo motor check it make sure wires are not worn or broke like mine check everything over adjust the wires to the proper measurement and clean power valves while your at it,also just make sure your speedo connections are all hooked up and turn the sled back on and see if a code flashes or anything. Lastly check if the sled "ate" more fuel then normal and report back. Hope that helps

 

[polemite.productions]

i like the idea of checking the can packing! like i said, it seemed like that bog that happens on a long right handed sidehill in deep pow, when the exhaust can't clear.

sled is still in the trailer for tonight. buddy is dropping it off tomorrow. will report back. thanks everyone.

 

[cumminshp]

No problem good luck hope we/I at least helped a bit.

 

[mthoodskiguy]

servo/ cables/ powervalves

Maybe lift the track and actually look and see what goin on with the servo..it should actuate once you hit higher rpm's. Make sure your measurements are right on with your cables.. If you eliminate clutches and snow jammed snow some where I still really think you might have an issue like mentioned... Let us know the results as I am very curious.. Good luck

 

[polemite.productions]

took a quick look today. exhaust can appears to be clear. pulled secondary right off and i don't see anything wrong with it- however the belt did seem to be sitting quite low in it. gonna revisit that issue when i get back out there.

took the belt off and ran it, and was able to rev it up without the same bog. HOWEVER, i still have all my warning lights lit up on the gauge. (not just the check gauges light like i first thought. also have the oil light, and temp light) wondering if the problem is the secondary, or if it's only apparent when the motor is being loaded. a bad secondary wont turn on the warning lights... still haven't checked everything. busy day.

 

[mthoodskiguy]

Oil light

I am fairly certain the the oil light going on is only a function of the oil level. If it comes on that means the float it stuck or your oil is low.. It in theory is not capable of "lighting up" for any other reasons other than a short.. It's interesting cause that would help me lean towards more of an electrical issue.. Hmmmmmm

 

[polemite.productions]

yeah, i've been having trouble with the oil light for over a year now. its off, its on, its off again. i've been ignoring it because i know that the oil is always topped up, and it's using oil on every ride, so i know that the oil system is working.

but the check gauges and temp lights are new, and the oil light is on steady instead of the periodic off and on.

but aside from that, i just came back in from taking another look.

i was taking the pipe off and planning to do a compression test, when i dropped a pipe spring under the motor. stuck my magnetic pickup tool down there and pulled up a bolt head. went back in and picked up another bolt head. found that both bolts from the motor mount bracket to the case were snapped off.

i put in a stiffer solid motor mounts earlier this year. they have been great, but the riding on this trip was probably the hardest load i've put on them this year- longer than normal periods of wot in really deep pow, and doubling snowboarders to the tops of slopes. i guess it was too much for those bolts. so i'm guessing that the amount of twist being put on the belt is what is causing the bog under load.

i went on and did the compression test, and that seems fine. however, i then noticed a small crack in the y pipe!

so now i've got more questions.

should i go back to a stock motor mount on that side, or get better bolts, or maybe something else?

can a leaking y pipe cause the "leaner on one cyl, fatter on the other cyl", condition i noticed on my plugs?

is there any reason a leaking y pipe can cause the warning lights to come on, or should i maybe look for stretched or worn wires as a result of the engine twisting? i'm thinking maybe the engine ground strap might have got pulled???

should i be looking for another stock y pipe, or an aftermarket one? are the aftermarket ones really any better?

anyone got any hints for extracting those broken bolts from the case? i've never had much luck with the easy outs i've got... not looking forward to this.

 

[scootdog]

On my M7 mag side motor mount is shot. The webbing is tore up. I was going to replace with snopro solid mount.

polemite

did you replace all mounts with the solid or just the mag side? My 2 pto mounts look fine after seeing your post not sure if I should put on solid mount.

 

[polemite.productions]

i did all 3 mounts.


an update on this issue-

i noticed a couple of things while working on the broken bolts. one was that the snubber/torque stop that lands on the front of the motor, at the mag side, had a bunch of wear on the contact surface. made me think that it may have been a little loose, which would have put a little more strain than normal on the motor mount and bolts.

i also noticed that without the mag side of the motor being supported, it seemed like the motor had sagged an excessive amount. i was thinking that the rubber block under the motor should be holding it up better than that. otherwise, all the weight of the motor is on that one mounting point on that side.

so i got a new torque stop and a new rubber block for under the motor. i just finished changing out the block and presto, now the motor mount bracket hole lines up perfectly with the hole through the motor mount, instead of sagging way below it.

so i'm gonna give the solid mount another try. i have a feeling that restoring the additional support that it's supposed to have is going to be the fix.

for anyone with an m7, i'd recomment pulling out the mag side motor mount bolt and checking if the motor sags, and tightening up the torque stop. takes 5 mins to check it.

 

[scootdog]

polemite Nice glad you figured it out.

I pulled out my motor mount bolt and noticed it is sagging a little. I posted a pic below hard to see but it sags about 1/4 the size of the hole. Did yours sag this much or way more? Going to tackle the motor mount and replace snubber if need be at same time. FYI i have about 1300 miles on my sled.

Thanks