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M1000 belt eating moster

im glad some of you have caught on im joking about 90 % of the time....lol

No joke here when I say I'm still ROTFLMAO when I think about how funny this is to hear how roles have reversed.......:D This needs to be hushed up quck though:rolleyes:

I think I have some room on my 09xp to carry a few cat belts for those unlucky bastages that I will no doubt find on the trail stranded due to a blown belt...


chit! Now that i think about it, there is 4 or 5 guys in this thread alone complaining about alignment issues and bad clutch setup......statistic wise, that's like an 85% failure rate if those numbers hold:eek: doesn't look good for cat this year!
 
No clue what Mcquiver is talking about because you are going to need 3 seasons of riding to have any roles reversed. So many belts last year it wasnt funny, thats doo in general not just xp's.
 
The problem is heat. you need to spend the money and get vents on your side pods. A lot of stock sleds from the factory are set up for speed and trail riding. They don't take the time to think about mountain riders when pushing snow and pulling long hill climbs..
 
No joke here when I say I'm still ROTFLMAO when I think about how funny this is to hear how roles have reversed.......:D This needs to be hushed up quck though:rolleyes:

I think I have some room on my 09xp to carry a few cat belts for those unlucky bastages that I will no doubt find on the trail stranded due to a blown belt...


chit! Now that i think about it, there is 4 or 5 guys in this thread alone complaining about alignment issues and bad clutch setup......statistic wise, that's like an 85% failure rate if those numbers hold:eek: doesn't look good for cat this year!

haha..... yea i rode with a m1000 last year that blew 4 belts in 600 miles thats worst then any xp :D
 
gearing

Got the gears ordered today....two ratios below an M8 what ever that is . I also bought some nice side vents , not the flimzy SLP ones either. Some sort of plastic screen , with an extra fine screen in the inside of the clutch side vent. I am also try to get a PC fan to work up in the foot well where the old reverse motor went. ( blowing warm air out) and two SLP vents in the shock tower. AND two small SLP vents under the tach/speedo. I plan to go all the way with this one.... I think I spent $1000 on belts last year.....lets see 21 rides at 2 rides per belt max, at retail of $150 per belt for a 060. I think thats $1500 ...scarry!
 
M1000 belts again...

Several years have gone by and I've bought back this same M1000 for an other round. The Ultimax belts were the biggest help......now I some times get three rides out of a belt, and the belts are around $105 . So from $75 per ride in belt cost down to around $34 a ride . Still would like to squeeze one more ride out of a belt. Is 4 rides too much to ask?
 
ultimax

Several years have gone by and I've bought back this same M1000 for an other round. The Ultimax belts were the biggest help......now I some times get three rides out of a belt, and the belts are around $105 . So from $75 per ride in belt cost down to around $34 a ride . Still would like to squeeze one more ride out of a belt. Is 4 rides too much to ask?

What is the part number for the ultimax belt you are using?? I just purchased an 08 sno- pro 1000 with slp goodies on it including clutching, still waiting for the rest of the info for their kit from the guy I bought the sled from. I can not see spending 1and 3/4 hundred for a factory belt.. I used to use Dayco belts and had great success with them the biggest problem to over come was tooooo high gearing. So as was asked did gearing down that much make a difference??
 
You definitely do not need to gear down on the M1. Mine is stock 60/60. I added more motor mounts, vented the side panels and in front of the clutch and running MDS weights. I'm piped/head/ported with a 3" track and the last belt I got over 1200 miles on it before it blew and I'm pretty sure it was my fault. That was the first belt I blew in nearly 3000 miles. I've done some consecutive near 2 minute pulls on that belt long before it blew. Should keep the stock gearing and make it work. You'll be much happier
 
Springs??

You definitely do not need to gear down on the M1. Mine is stock 60/60. I added more motor mounts, vented the side panels and in front of the clutch and running MDS weights. I'm piped/head/ported with a 3" track and the last belt I got over 1200 miles on it before it blew and I'm pretty sure it was my fault. That was the first belt I blew in nearly 3000 miles. I've done some consecutive near 2 minute pulls on that belt long before it blew. Should keep the stock gearing and make it work. You'll be much happier

Thanks for the info,, Like had posted, I just bought this one and took the belt off and was amazed at how stiff the secondary clutch spring is, it has the 3 to 6K spring in it or the orange spring.. The primary spring looks like the stock spring for that elevation as well. I was always under the impression that if you ran heavier weights and a shallower helix or is it a steeper helix and less spring in the secondary that also is easier on belts.. The MDS weights you talk about are they adjustable? If so what weight do you run them at?? It also looks like a new belt will be too tight in both clutches is it possible to get the spider off or do you just add a spacer to the secondary clutch? There appears to be little belt deflection is why I ask.... It has a 36 degree helix in it.. What rollers are best. This sled only has 294 mi. on it but I want to replace rollers and weight bushings before they wear out..
Thanks for any info you give, I have been out of riding for 12 yrs. so have to learn how the secondary clutch works,, it doesn't look that much different than what I last worked on but the fixed in place mounting I not fond of.. I would like to have a 1M secondary.....
 
Thanks for the info,, Like had posted, I just bought this one and took the belt off and was amazed at how stiff the secondary clutch spring is, it has the 3 to 6K spring in it or the orange spring.. The primary spring looks like the stock spring for that elevation as well. I was always under the impression that if you ran heavier weights and a shallower helix or is it a steeper helix and less spring in the secondary that also is easier on belts.. The MDS weights you talk about are they adjustable? If so what weight do you run them at?? It also looks like a new belt will be too tight in both clutches is it possible to get the spider off or do you just add a spacer to the secondary clutch? There appears to be little belt deflection is why I ask.... It has a 36 degree helix in it.. What rollers are best. This sled only has 294 mi. on it but I want to replace rollers and weight bushings before they wear out..
Thanks for any info you give, I have been out of riding for 12 yrs. so have to learn how the secondary clutch works,, it doesn't look that much different than what I last worked on but the fixed in place mounting I not fond of.. I would like to have a 1M secondary.....

The MDS weights are adjustable. Very easily I might add. They run a different profile and run heavier than normal. I'm running 90g. Call Steve at MDS. Very helpful and they come with a money back guarantee if you don't like them. There is a few spacers in your tool kit to change deflection. Just pull out your clutch bolt and end cap on your helix and thrown another spacer in there.
For better rollers you can use the newer style which I think are '10 and newer or use rock rollers. I'm using the newer style Cat ones and no issues.
One of the biggest things is to get that motor more solidly mounted to keep it from flexing while on the throttle.
 
Motor mounts

Check ur mounts
My 700 kep eating belts and motor mounts till I put some stops in I would ride a half a day on a new mount and it would rip the top off it been through 3or4 mounts trying to figure it out few diff clutches primary and secondary. More hp and torq. Means more movement and twisting on the motor under load.more torq. Stops is what stop my sled from eating belts good luck
 
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