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i told you !!!
ha ha glad your liking it / definitely report back
thanks
I ran Tony's (TRS) setup with both Indy Dan's Lightning knock offs and real Lightnings in my Mtntk Axys. I am making a few tweaks to it since the stock Axys has different gearing and I'm running a bit more power than has been tested in the past. But it's the real deal. Engagement is real smooth, RPM comes on faster, less clutch heat (and getting better as I tweak it), and MUCH more track speed compared to the various 10-series profile + steep helix and big springs clutching that basically every turbo kit comes with. Once I get it dialed in I will write up a nice piece on it under a new thread.
PMd youAs crucial as wearing your beacon when you ride. You could try the Indy Specialty version, but I think Tory had better luck with the true Lightning weights.
Send me a PM. Might be able to hook you up with a set or two. If there is enough interest we might be able to have a run made.
The helix does not lock into the reverse. The reverse groove needs to be notched out further..... To lock in.
Tony's set up is incredible!! On the Pro's it's a lead pipe lock. The Axys it is working great, Tory and a few guys are working on improvements. Heat is the only problem. If you watch Tory and Travis's vids there is ABSOLUTELY NO GENTLE on their sleds. That may be part of it. Guys with Sidekicks... It is working but needs some improvement and time. I must note... All of that is without Tony's endorsement. Obviously he can't ride this year to stamp off in it.
Can someone explain the reverse cut helix? (or whatever you call that)
To me it seems like once it gets flatter, it'd shift out too quickly and or the belt would just get yanked through the secondary. To add backshift would suffer no? What am I missing? Most turbo guys I have met run a progressive cut helix - 42-46ish or straight cut 44-48 so am struggling to wrap my head around how this would work.
You should read AAEN's clutching book. Those helix cuts with big springs are basically the exact opposite of efficient clutching. They do hold RPM. But they are just limiting shift and track speed.
I get the idea. Of course I want full shift out, and of course I want to load the motor as that helps build boost.
I just don't see how the 30whatever cut would backshift or give enough belt squeeze under full boost. I had problems with belt slippage with a 40 straight cut...
I know TRS and those running the setup are far better at clutching than me, I'm just trying to understand the "how".
I ran Tony's (TRS) setup with both Indy Dan's Lightning knock offs and real Lightnings in my Mtntk Axys. I am making a few tweaks to it since the stock Axys has different gearing and I'm running a bit more power than has been tested in the past. But it's the real deal. Engagement is real smooth, RPM comes on faster, less clutch heat (and getting better as I tweak it), and MUCH more track speed compared to the various 10-series profile + steep helix and big springs clutching that basically every turbo kit comes with. Once I get it dialed in I will write up a nice piece on it under a new thread.
SparkyHere is some more Jedi mind warp for you..... He uses same helix for NA as boosted.....![]()
"The smaller the angle, the more side force is created against the belt." - AAEN clutch tuning handbook