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Lightning weights or IS new turbo weight

I ran Tony's (TRS) setup with both Indy Dan's Lightning knock offs and real Lightnings in my Mtntk Axys. I am making a few tweaks to it since the stock Axys has different gearing and I'm running a bit more power than has been tested in the past. But it's the real deal. Engagement is real smooth, RPM comes on faster, less clutch heat (and getting better as I tweak it), and MUCH more track speed compared to the various 10-series profile + steep helix and big springs clutching that basically every turbo kit comes with. Once I get it dialed in I will write up a nice piece on it under a new thread.
 
I ran Tony's (TRS) setup with both Indy Dan's Lightning knock offs and real Lightnings in my Mtntk Axys. I am making a few tweaks to it since the stock Axys has different gearing and I'm running a bit more power than has been tested in the past. But it's the real deal. Engagement is real smooth, RPM comes on faster, less clutch heat (and getting better as I tweak it), and MUCH more track speed compared to the various 10-series profile + steep helix and big springs clutching that basically every turbo kit comes with. Once I get it dialed in I will write up a nice piece on it under a new thread.

Thanks for the info! I will most likely run TRS clutching in my 13 turbo pro. As far as I can see everyone who has tried his clutching setup has really liked it. Where did you get the heavy Lightning weights and did you have Venom make you the custom helix? Also is your helix an ER helix? Thanks.
 
JJ. Tony's setup is a combination he developed for his
Turbo pro He hasn't dialed in a setup for an Axys that I know of so far ( with his surgery it may be a bit)
Some of us are doing are own testing on Axys's
I think the machines are close enough that with a few adjustments
His setup will prove great in the Axys too

I'm in no way trying to speak for him
and do not have his experience or skills
Tb asked me how I liked Tony's (TRS) clutching setup in a private message and I encouraged him to try it
 
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Here's the post I could find quickly
Hopefully this is the most current hard to search on my phone
Please forgive me Tony if this is in anyway wrong or putting words in your mouth

TRS
Here is my turbo setup. This is not a road race setup it's for high elevation back country riding. 8-9# boost with a TRS modified Boondocker kit.

20-46 gearing with 8 tooth 2.86 drivers 2.5" 163" track
46-32F ER helix 42-34F ER special cut from team
140-220 secondary spring
165-310 primary spring almond/red
75gram Lightning weights
This set up is for stock Polaris primary and secondary with stock sheave angles.
 
Would really like to try this setup on a 14 turbo pro. How crucial are the lightning weights to this setup? I understand they are now hard to source although SLP shows them on their website but only up to 70 grams. Thanks
 
As crucial as wearing your beacon when you ride. You could try the Indy Specialty version, but I think Tory had better luck with the true Lightning weights.

Send me a PM. Might be able to hook you up with a set or two. If there is enough interest we might be able to have a run made.

The helix does not lock into the reverse. The reverse groove needs to be notched out further..... To lock in.

Tony's set up is incredible!! On the Pro's it's a lead pipe lock. The Axys it is working great, Tory and a few guys are working on improvements. Heat is the only problem. If you watch Tory and Travis's vids there is ABSOLUTELY NO GENTLE on their sleds. That may be part of it. Guys with Sidekicks... It is working but needs some improvement and time. I must note... All of that is without Tony's endorsement. Obviously he can't ride this year to stamp off in it.
 
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As crucial as wearing your beacon when you ride. You could try the Indy Specialty version, but I think Tory had better luck with the true Lightning weights.

Send me a PM. Might be able to hook you up with a set or two. If there is enough interest we might be able to have a run made.

The helix does not lock into the reverse. The reverse groove needs to be notched out further..... To lock in.

Tony's set up is incredible!! On the Pro's it's a lead pipe lock. The Axys it is working great, Tory and a few guys are working on improvements. Heat is the only problem. If you watch Tory and Travis's vids there is ABSOLUTELY NO GENTLE on their sleds. That may be part of it. Guys with Sidekicks... It is working but needs some improvement and time. I must note... All of that is without Tony's endorsement. Obviously he can't ride this year to stamp off in it.
PMd you
 
Can someone explain the reverse cut helix? (or whatever you call that)

To me it seems like once it gets flatter, it'd shift out too quickly and or the belt would just get yanked through the secondary. To add backshift would suffer no? What am I missing? Most turbo guys I have met run a progressive cut helix - 42-46ish or straight cut 44-48 so am struggling to wrap my head around how this would work.
 
Can someone explain the reverse cut helix? (or whatever you call that)

To me it seems like once it gets flatter, it'd shift out too quickly and or the belt would just get yanked through the secondary. To add backshift would suffer no? What am I missing? Most turbo guys I have met run a progressive cut helix - 42-46ish or straight cut 44-48 so am struggling to wrap my head around how this would work.

You should read AAEN's clutching book. Those helix cuts with big springs are basically the exact opposite of efficient clutching. They do hold RPM. But they are just limiting shift and track speed.
 
You should read AAEN's clutching book. Those helix cuts with big springs are basically the exact opposite of efficient clutching. They do hold RPM. But they are just limiting shift and track speed.

I get the idea. Of course I want full shift out, and of course I want to load the motor as that helps build boost.

I just don't see how the 30whatever cut would backshift or give enough belt squeeze under full boost. I had problems with belt slippage with a 40 straight cut...

I know TRS and those running the setup are far better at clutching than me, I'm just trying to understand the "how".
 
Courtesy of briand's excel sheet found here: http://www.snowest.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3934296&postcount=82

Ignore the total value of the force on the Y axis as it's related to engine torque, which is highly variable. Just compare the two curves.

1 is Tony's helix and spring
2 is Stock helix and spring

15826110_10211297806383577_676959095315703550_n.jpg
 
I get the idea. Of course I want full shift out, and of course I want to load the motor as that helps build boost.

I just don't see how the 30whatever cut would backshift or give enough belt squeeze under full boost. I had problems with belt slippage with a 40 straight cut...

I know TRS and those running the setup are far better at clutching than me, I'm just trying to understand the "how".

"The smaller the angle, the more side force is created against the belt." - AAEN clutch tuning handbook
 
I ran Tony's (TRS) setup with both Indy Dan's Lightning knock offs and real Lightnings in my Mtntk Axys. I am making a few tweaks to it since the stock Axys has different gearing and I'm running a bit more power than has been tested in the past. But it's the real deal. Engagement is real smooth, RPM comes on faster, less clutch heat (and getting better as I tweak it), and MUCH more track speed compared to the various 10-series profile + steep helix and big springs clutching that basically every turbo kit comes with. Once I get it dialed in I will write up a nice piece on it under a new thread.

How much more track speed are you seeing ?
 
"The smaller the angle, the more side force is created against the belt." - AAEN clutch tuning handbook

AHHH. My brain hurts. How is this possible?! My brain says "Greater the angle, more the clutch wants to return to "neutral" (eg, not shifted) resulting in more belt squeeze."

Put another way, think of it as a mountain, steeper the mountain, harder it is to go up, easier it is to go back. Back = belt squeeze.
 
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