kurts gear down install

[freak485]

I was starting to install my gear down kit today and I found this little washer, looks like two washers glued together...some kind of lock washer I am guessing, anyone know were this goes or it is it not part of the kit? There is only one of them.

Also doing the clutch kit, it came with one derlin washer were do you guys prefer to put this were does it work the best? I have never run a derlin before so new to me. Thanks.

 

[Pro Wrench]

In the instructions it says that it goes on one of the bolts. Don't remember if its the top or bottom

 

[Sage Crusher]

I would call ( Curt ) to ask- but in most of his clucth kits that derlin would go in the secondary against the spring and Helix to reduce friction that is troublesome in the Poo secondary
Talking to Curt- all his clutching is in the secondary

 

[freak485]

In the instructions it says that it goes on one of the bolts. Don't remember if its the top or bottom

Yeah I remember that much I want to say bottom, I just didn't know if it goes were you would put a regular lock washer or what since it makes it look really funny with that big pan head bolt not touching the flat washer...And they forgot to through the instructions in the box..lol.

 

[Laundryboy]

On my kit that washer is taped to the larger sprocket so I'd imagine it goes on that bolt. My kit didn't come with any instructions.

 

[MTN Powderhound]

The delrin should go in the secondary under the cup the spring sits in.

 

[tb800]

It goes between the bottom bolt head and flat washer. It's also at the 205 mark of kurts install link.

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=XAoqxhYCUW0

In one of his other videos he installs the delron washer under the spring. Not the spring to roller cap.

 

[dboivin]

just an FYI, those are called nord lock washers. probably one of the best lock washers ever designed.

 

[freak485]

just an FYI, those are called nord lock washers. probably one of the best lock washers ever designed.

Thanks i dont think i have ever seen one till this one.

 

[mountainhorse]

From an old post about NORD-LOCK washers used on Ski Doo exhaust... they are excellent washers.

I've updated the photo and added a video embed for better illustration that was avail back in 2006.

Mountainhorse: Nov 21 2006, 08:50 AM

The SKI DOO 800R WILL loosen the exhaust bolts on the new ones just like the old 800's. They use the same fastners as the older 800's. This is especially true if you have disturbed them by removing them or periodically tightening them. A lot of the dealers are aware of the issues with the exhaust bolts and "checking" each one trying to avoid warranty issues and are making the problem worse by disturbing the bolts.

DO NOT USE LOCKTITE RED ON THESE FASTENERS!!! If you ever have to remove these you will have a mother of a time getting them out and will probably strip out the threads on the cylinders. Locking compounds on the soft aluminum of the threads around the exhaust ports is asking for trouble when removal time comes around (damaged Y-pipe, cylinder work, etc).

Use the NORD-LOCK washers to secure these bolts. They will not fatigue with the heat and actually hold tighter when they get hot. They are resuable, easy to assemble and dissasemble and are not affected by oil.

The key is the difference in angles.
Since the cam angle " α " is larger than the thread
pitch " β ", the pair of wedge lock washers expand more
than the corresponding pitch of the thread.


<iframe width="640" height="480" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/mgwmuZuJ02I" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

There is no need to safety wire on the bolts especially with how tight it is in there. It makes threading and twisting the siezing wire a pain. Aircraft "allens" are pretty hard to find in M6 sizes but you can always drill your own with a bunch of cobalt bits if you have to go this route.

Change out the bolts to stainless steel socket cap screws [M6 x 20mm] and use the silver (nickle based) anti sieze on the threads so you dont have to deal with corrosion problems down the road as all exhaust bolts look like shyte after a while. This compound will not give you corosion problems. Don't use copper antisieze on the threads as this will promote galvanic corrosion with the aluminum and steel or stainless steel.

You can order all of these fasteners and the ball hex driver that will keep you from teaching your kids new words(***#@^&&&*###) when you try to remove the old ones and install the new. You can get them from McMASTER CARR The following are McMaster Carr part numbers. Anyone can order these parts with a credit card over the phone or online.

Nordlock washers for M6 Part #91812A229=> $8.49 for 10 pair (enough for 1 sled)

316 stainless steel M6x20 1mm pitch Part #92290A326 => $7.30 per pack of 25 (3 sleds)

Nickle antisieze compound Part #10295K29 => $5.54 for 1/4 oz tube (4 sleds worth)

5mm extra long 3/8 drive ball-hex driver
Part # 54185A23 => $13.48 each

You may be saying to yourself (since sledders are some of the cheapest bastiges on the face of the earth, me included) that that is some serious money for little washers and bolts... but these things ABSOULETLY work and will keep you riding and not wrenching. Go in on this stuff with your friends with 800's if you feel the need. If you've ever dropped anything under the motor on the REV's or RT's you will see the value in these "expensive" parts.

I have to give credit to REV*BARON for turning me on to these issues and the solution.

.

 

[dboivin]

i was gonna mention they are a must for ski-doo manifolds but didn't want to let everyone know i was a ski-doo guy prior to this year, lol.

 

[BILTIT]

We use these at work, best lock washer we have found yet!