Just Got a 2010 M8 SP! Now What?

[pshirek]

Read through lots of posts on what to do, but its all from 2011. I'm looking for some updated info and what has worked for a couple years! Right now the sled is completely stock (never even changed plugs and only on the second belt) w/ 1500 miles. Right away I'm not looking to dump all the much into the sled hopefully keep around $600 or so. Thinking a Can (for ditching weight and sweet sound) and some clutching work should wake it up even more.

Has anyone ever found a can that has worked at 1500ft that doesn't turn into a dog in the mountains at 9k feet? I'm trying to stay from a super loud one if that's possible, but performance will trump noise level.

What about the clutch set up? Has anyone tried the MDS weights, or do others work just as well? I can't really wrap my head around spending that much on weights and how just changing weights will really wake up the sled that much. Any other clutch updates/set ups that I should check out? I've heard good and bad things about torsional set ups effecting reverse. Do they have that figured out now?

I've read a bunch on the DD bearing update and have an skf bearing ordered, hope no machining has to be done...

I'm in ND and out here ride between 1500 and 2500 feet, with trips planned to Cooke City which gets up to around 10,000. I'm 215 w/o all the gear on (if that matters).

Thanks

 

[WyoBoy1000]

To keep it cheaper,
Get all the shocks revalved, contact Any at "Gas Shock Repair" makes a huge difference in ride and performance.
Do the Geo mod and see if you like it, helps it get on the snow faster.
MDS weights work great, been running them in everything since 09
and they are adjustable to suit your needs when changing elevation.
Cans are a hit and miss on the 2010, mapping is real tight. SLP is one of the better ones.

 

[JFro50]

RKT torsional secondary or head and porting. Skinz cans have always worked the best for me. I've tried mbrp SLP and sno stuff also and skinz lost the least performance with shedding good amount of weight. Slp pipe kit works really great!

 

[jim]

I've been around several 08 through 10 M8s over the years...friends have owned them and I currently own a turbo. I've seen lots of stuff done to them, lots of hit and miss. By far, the biggest hit was an SLP pipe set (y pipe, pipe and can) and intake. Clutching pretty much stays stock minus a primary spring change. I added one more spacer to the secondary spring for a bit more preload. No fueling required. Sounds good but not too loud. Rips. Reliable. Bolt on and go.

 

[JFro50]

I've been around several 08 through 10 M8s over the years...friends have owned them and I currently own a turbo. I've seen lots of stuff done to them, lots of hit and miss. By far, the biggest hit was an SLP pipe set (y pipe, pipe and can) and intake. Clutching pretty much stays stock minus a primary spring change. I added one more spacer to the secondary spring for a bit more preload. No fueling required. Sounds good but not too loud. Rips. Reliable. Bolt on and go.

I may be wrong but I think its just the 07-09 m8's that dont need a fuel controller with that slp kit. I think all the H.O. motors need controllers. You are right though they are the best mod hands down. I've only seen them on the 09's and they flat out work.

 

[RobertTrivanovic]

I may be wrong but I think its just the 07-09 m8's that dont need a fuel controller with that slp kit. I think all the H.O. motors need controllers. You are right though they are the best mod hands down. I've only seen them on the 09's and they flat out work.

Slp piping, rk tek head and porting, bdx intake, boysen reeds, bd box, all great mods and make the thing absolutely rip. wouldn't hesitate to get any of them again

 

[ullose272]

speedwerx tunnel dump, revalve all the shocks

 

[2005 1m]

If I only had $600, here's what I'd do...

Rip out all the foam under the food - free, -2 or 3 lbs
BDX Oil delete - $30, -8lbs and peace of mind
Skinz super Q can - $230 (ebay when I bought mine), -16lbs and doesn't bog at elevation.
BDX intake - $180, -7lbs
Vent the clutch & exhaust - $100
Madsigntist guage riser - $60

That puts you right at $600 with 34 lbs of weight loss and a reliable, functional sled. If you can swing the MDS weights and a shift assist bearing on top of those, it is worth it.

 

[Frostbite]

I would buy a 2.6" Powerclaw for $679. It's the best $ I have spent on my sled.

Sell the stock 2.25" Powerclaw for $350.

That would leave you $300+ for the MDS weights and an SLP intake for $59.

Also, do the GEO mod for free.

I'm an SLP pipe believer but, I have only used the complete kit, never just a canister.

 

[Coldfinger]

I put a SLP silencer on this year and saved 13.5# and it works. The underhood temps are reduced too, but I don't know how much. All I can tell you is I don't get near the same amount of heat coming out the 3 holes I drilled above the speedo which I use to warm/defog my goggles.

With the new can, I haven't had a deep powder bog yet. Been in some good powder and really tried to make it bog but couldn't. Just waiting for that day when it is super deep to see if it bogs. I believe it is going to be better because the outlet is slightly inboard of the OEM, and, the can outlet pipe is smaller dia than OEM which I suspect is less likely to be effected by snow because there is more pressure to keep it clear.

 

[M6johnny]

P-85 conversion for you're primary clutch. Its a chunk of change, but well worth the piece of mind that you can hold it pinned without the cat clutch going BOOM!!!

 

[PC800SP]

I would buy a 2.6" Powerclaw for $679. It's the best $ I have spent on my sled.

Sell the stock 2.25" Powerclaw for $350.

That would leave you $300+ for the MDS weights and an SLP intake for $59.

Also, do the GEO mod for free.

I'm an SLP pipe believer but, I have only used the complete kit, never just a canister.

Where did you get the powerclaw 2.6 track for 679.00?

 

[av8er]

here is a list

SLP air intake kit, jaws can, goggle bag, side vents, hot dogger, shift assist, Geo mod, revalve shocks at GSR. save your $$$- get BOOST

 

[Bearcat]

I just modified my pal's M8 SP -10. It already had SuperQ and CE 153" track.

Here's the list I made:
- 2 degree advanced timing key
- Wössner pistons
- Yellow/white spring and 75gr weights, but it needs 77gr! Still revs 8400 which is too much.
- Took off hood intake and made my own mesh cone over the stock horn
- Stock secondary, stock gearing.

Sled pulls really really hard at our elevation (below 1km).

 

[07dragon]

Subscribing

 

[prairiebound]

you got a lot of advice out of this question. i bought a 10 m8 snopro new. they really suck in the shock area stock. sent them off to andy in idaho. its is $400 but really stops the trenching. i did put a slp can on it after a year. seems to a lot more snappy out of the hole with it. quiet which was a no.1 priority with me. i have not gone back to stock so i think it was worth the money. as far as really cheap things you can do clean the exhaust valves. measure the the cables. 1.377 inches. buy a digetal reader. if the cables don't move freely put new ones in. $50 each. if the skies don't look square with the floor check your a arms, spindles, and steering post. i would say the steering post is the weakest link of the three. if the paint is gone or welds are cracked on a arms replace them. easy to tell when you take them off and lay them on the garage floor and they wobble they are bent. if the bolts are bent the a arms are bent. they can be staightened i have heard. never been able to do it myself. blow out the cluthes with a air hose after every ride. these belts last a long time but you would not believe the dust that comes out after a hard ride. i have got a 1000 miles out of a belt but not all of them.sometimes you make mistakes and smoke a belt and it is done. so i would say your owners manual has a lot of very good info. in it and read it and do it. the sled really rips when it is maintained and when it isn't maintained no aftermarket stuff is going to help. i cant remember andy's buisness name. i think gsr out of rigby id. the best thing i did for my sled was getting shocks revalved and doing regular maintence i would say. ride your sled and enjoy it. i live in the black hills at 5 to 6000 and ride in wy at up to 10000. the cluches and weights work good stock. a real pain to to heat up that red locktite at 10000 feet to change weights. i have done it and it really sucks. take care of this sled and maintain it and it will run with with 2013 sleds. it really is that good of a sled. that says a lot with all the changes that have been made in mountain sleds in the last few years.