Is a clutch kit beneficial on the 850? Let’s find out.

[HH_717]

Wondering what you guys think on stock clutching. Is it good, okay, or pretty bad. I ride from 6-9k and was wondering if I should stay with stock clutching or go with a aftermarket clutch kit. If you think so, what aftermarket company should I go with? I’ll only have a silencer other than that completely stock 2020 850.

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

How much are you riding and how would you describe your riding style?

Plenty of guys I'd say the money is better spent just getting out riding. If your putting on serious milage or riding pretty dang hard there is definately some room to gain over stock setup.

 

[Pickin’ Boogers]

What are you trying to achieve? Dropping a random "clutch kit" without a specific objective seems like a waste of money to me.

 

[HH_717]

I put in about 1000 miles or more each season. Only got 1000 miles this year because previous sled blew up. I do tree riding, not really into long hillclimbs. Heard some people say the stock clutching lacks a little. Thought maybe a aftermarket clutch kit could give me more of everything really.

 

[Teth-Air]

Stock clutching is good as clutch temps are low but I like to adjust characteristics of the clutching to suite my style of riding. The stock clutching does pull hard enough mid range but I feel it is not snappy enough. I like a low engagement and then quick revving that runs just under the exhaust valves opening while cruising. This makes it quick to react when hopping over an obstacle. The stock clutching seems to be a bit slow to react when needing instant power to the track. Also the backshift is a bit slow on the stock set-up. IMHO

 

[Murph]

The stock 1216 belt belt is incredibly hard and will take a TON of abuse-- especially in the form of misaligned clutches.

Contact Tony (TRS on SnoWest) for his clutch kit, alignment bar, and Gates Belt (Gates has a one year warranty against failure).

The Gates belt grips really hard and helps with on-off-on throttle applications in the trees.

For others reading this post, I would wait until the motor is fully out of break in so you are comparing apples-to- apples. As the motor breaks in it reallyy wakes up.

 

[Reddragon800]

I think there is a ton room for improvement. The stock set up is slow, poor backshift and doesn't hold RPM very well. Spent the last 2 years refining a kit for 5-7000 feet. With the current gearing on the belt drive and chaincase 1-1 shift is 80 and 70.8 mph track speed. WAY more than you'll ever see at elevation. The stock 42 straight helix is too much angle and the secondary spring is too soft. I have gone to a multi angle helix and stiffer secondary. I also run a softer primary spring with adjustable weights, loaded more to the heal as the stock 68 ( which weigh almost 69g) are too tip heavy. All of this combined makes for a way more responsive sled, much stronger out of the hole, back shift is so much better and holds more track speed on the top end. Well worth the money...

 

[madmax]

I would second the advise to do the TRS clutching, belt and alignment Bar. It really works good. Almost 1000 hard mountain powder turbo mikes this year on one belt.

 

[Teth-Air]

I think there is a ton room for improvement. The stock set up is slow, poor backshift and doesn't hold RPM very well. Spent the last 2 years refining a kit for 5-7000 feet. With the current gearing on the belt drive and chaincase 1-1 shift is 80 and 70.8 mph track speed. WAY more than you'll ever see at elevation. The stock 42 straight helix is too much angle and the secondary spring is too soft. I have gone to a multi angle helix and stiffer secondary. I also run a softer primary spring with adjustable weights, loaded more to the heal as the stock 68 ( which weigh almost 69g) are too tip heavy. All of this combined makes for a way more responsive sled, much stronger out of the hole, back shift is so much better and holds more track speed on the top end. Well worth the money...

Sounds like you clutch similar to me. How soft are you going on the primary? I use a 100/290. We also use the secondary roller bearing with 2 hardened steel roller plates to make the secondary buttery smooth and fast shifting.

 

[Reddragon800]

Sounds like you clutch similar to me. How soft are you going on the primary? I use a 100/290. We also use the secondary roller bearing with 2 hardened steel roller plates to make the secondary buttery smooth and fast shifting.

I use the 120-300 primary. I know my helix is much different that what your running.

 

[Pickin’ Boogers]

HHanks69 - note everyone discussing specific objectives, like Teth-Air in post #5.

 

[G-Force]

Another vote for Tony @ TRS here, also. Using his alignment bar, I had to use a combo of 3 shims to get everything in line (can't remember exact measurement off top of head)
Pulls harder, lower, than stock, makes track speed like crazy in the mid, and backshift great. Allows rpm / track speed to recover in mid pull, when track unloads, then drops back in etc.
Super impressed. Only "hiccup" I had with the kit is I needed some spare weights for some of the areas I ride, was pulling too much rpm

 

[klarkkentster]

Not sure if 2019 clutching is the same as 2020. I feel mine is deifnetly not snappy enough either. Plus I geared down and want to gain that advantage in clutching as well. I plan to go through Fastrax and use MDS weights for different elevations. From talking to Kurt - he seams to be very knowledgable and we have a good plan to tweak primary and secondary to achieve desired results

 

[FatDogX]

The stock 1216 belt belt is incredibly hard and will take a TON of abuse-- especially in the form of misaligned clutches.

Contact Tony (TRS on SnoWest) for his clutch kit, alignment bar, and Gates Belt (Gates has a one year warranty against failure).

The Gates belt grips really hard and helps with on-off-on throttle applications in the trees.

For others reading this post, I would wait until the motor is fully out of break in so you are comparing apples-to- apples. As the motor breaks in it reallyy wakes up.

That's interesting on the Gates Belt, I have run a couple and had horrible luck. They just did not last, the last one vibrated so bad it felt like a bearing was going!! As far as their warranty that's not all it's cracked up to be either. You have to have a receipt and you pay shipping to get the old belt to them and then you pay shipping for the new one.

 

[Murph]

That's interesting on the Gates Belt, I have run a couple and had horrible luck. They just did not last, the last one vibrated so bad it felt like a bearing was going!! As far as their warranty that's not all it's cracked up to be either. You have to have a receipt and you pay shipping to get the old belt to them and then you pay shipping for the new one.

The Gates belt doesn't tolerate two things that the stock Polaris 1216 belt does really well.
1. You cannot back bend a Gates in the stock spare belt holder-- it will cause premature failure.

2. It will not tolerate clutch mis-alignment-- it will cause premature failure. You MUST align your clutches. All the 850 clutches I've looked at have been way off.

The stock $200 1216 belt will handle a TON of heat from slipping, misalignment, etc.
The 1216 slips so much that you will gain 200 rpm versus a Gates 47C.

I never had much of an issue with Gates warranty. Put the receipt in the USPS box/ envelope, send in $10 for return shipping--> new Gates in my mailbox.

 

[Teth-Air]

The Gates belt doesn't tolerate two things that the stock Polaris 1216 belt does really well.
1. You cannot back bend a Gates in the stock spare belt holder-- it will cause premature failure.

2. It will not tolerate clutch mis-alignment-- it will cause premature failure. You MUST align your clutches. All the 850 clutches I've looked at have been way off.

The stock $200 1216 belt will handle a TON of heat from slipping, misalignment, etc.
The 1216 slips so much that you will gain 200 rpm versus a Gates 47C.

I never had much of an issue with Gates warranty. Put the receipt in the USPS box/ envelope, send in $10 for return shipping--> new Gates in my mailbox.

So is the stock belt slipping in the primary or the secondary? I may know the answer to this already but the reason I ask is a clue to what needs to be done to clutch properly. If you decide to run the Gates belt you may want to re-evaluate your clutch component choices compared to running stock belt.

 

[Murph]

So is the stock belt slipping in the primary or the secondary? I may know the answer to this already but the reason I ask is a clue to what needs to be done to clutch properly. If you decide to run the Gates belt you may want to re-evaluate your clutch component choices compared to running stock belt.

Appreciate the offer. Pretty happy with my (TRS setup) clutching results. All things being equal (clutch components/ belt deflection) the rpm rises 2-300 based on belt slip due to how hard the compound is. Put a scrubbed Gates in and it just grabs that much harder and loads motor more and rpm decreases accordingly.

Anecdotal evidence of the belt slipping phenomenon and the toughness of the 1216 belt is the number of secondary sheave failures (I had zero) reported since the introduction of the 1216. They get so hot, the belt saws through the sheave.

 

[kidder17]

I will definitely put my name behind the TRS kit. I had my first experience with this kit last season on my 2020 163”.
Over 1000miles later on it and it is by far the best Mod. Money I have spent and my 2021 will have it for sure.


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[klarkkentster]

I will definitely put my name behind the TRS kit. I had my first experience with this kit last season on my 2020 163”.
Over 1000miles later on it and it is by far the best Mod. Money I have spent and my 2021 will have it for sure.


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What all is included in the TRS kit?


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[TRS]

Plus secondary spacersgeneric pic. Specs will change for your app.