Lots of good m7 must do on here.
1. the relocation bracket is critical as is running a loose track as the cat skid has very poor track tension characteristics even with the brackets but they are way better.
2. make sure you have the later cat orange secondary spring, then adjust the white nut tension so its 10mm from face of nut to face of cap. Then ride and adjust, more tension less upshift more backshift, less tension lazy slow upshift ( can be great for trailriding ).
3. If you ride deep snow or in the west, gear that thing down and pickup top end. Took cat about 6 years to figure that out, Back in 05 and 06 CAT tuners had bought out the years supply of lower gearing by Nov. Other wise stock gearing always a lazy sled. Gearing on these will trump pipes,big bores, clutch kits, boonie boxes, lots of little nagging tuning issues will disappear when you modernize this sled with correct gear ratio.
4. Keep those clutch's pristine clean, and if the primary rattles a little, start shopping for a newer cat primary. Stock helix all you need to win drag races or top end if you have good clutch adjustments. I put this secondary setup on all M sleds until cat ditched the DD drive.
All the high $$ secondary clutch kits have been bad attempts to overcome the M tall gearing and lack of understanding of function and adjustment on your stock secondary. Just make sure you ditch the stock secondary spring and go to cat orange or aftermarket same spring tension.
5. if you fix the boards and they need it, go with new pipe type. back in the day we installed lots of the pressed and cut boards, they all fatigue out, just welded up two yesterday for customers on older m8s with cracks on each not so grippy cross cleats.
6. upside is no one is really making a better sled, different with other problems. Good maintanance and tuning is better than new out of the box.
