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Instructions for replacing faulty bearing on diamond drive?

Thanks for the pics of the 5203.

Now I'm wondering why the 6203 didn't show the same type of wear in the groove, at least mine didn't. If the 6203 is not a side load bearing and they are failing because of excess side loading, then wouldn't these also look like the 5203 units?

Is it easy to tell when bolting the DD back into the chassis whether or not excess side loading is being applied as the bolts are tightened?

When I removed the DD cover while it was still on the sled, with the 6203 inside, the cover didn't just pop loose - I had to pry it a little. 2010 model.

With the 5203 bearing, while taking the cover off while on the sled, does the cover tend to come loose as the cover screws are loosened, indicating pressure being relieved?
 
IMO the 5203 does not fit on a 2010 without machining. Yes it can be squeezed in there but I would not go there. Take the shim out and get the shoulder machined down the difference. On a 2009, it sounds like it will work, I have a 2010. There is some talk of machining the drive shaft, I am talking about machining the shoulder on the shaft that the 5203 (original 6203) sits on.

The 5203 bearing fit just fine on my 10' HCR. No issues @ all, and still had room because I set the 2 case halves together w/o a gasket and there were no fittament problems at all!! Now, on my 11' HCR, they tell me the 5203 will not fit until I machine the bearing seating area on the transfer shaft down .050". If not machined down, the two case halves will not mate up properly. I just pulled my DD of my 11' to inspect it, and found the inner rubber seal gone, the bearing rough, and a couple teeth with heavy wear(chipped). They will WARRANTY that one!!!!!
 
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The 5203 bearing fit just fine on my 10' HCR. No issues @ all, and still had room because I set the 2 case halves together w/o a gasket and there were no fittament problems at all!! Now, on my 11' HCR, they tell me the 5203 will not fit until I machine the bearing seating area on the transfer shaft down .050". If not machined down, the two case halves will not mate up properly. I just pulled my DD of my 11' to inspect it, and found the inner rubber seal gone, the bearing rough, and a couple teeth with heavy wear(chipped). They will WARRANTY that one!!!!!

Just Finished the install of the 5203 Double Row Bearing on my 2010 m8, I Completely removed the diamond drive from the chassis, I Had no fitment issues as well! When I talked to BDX he said it was not necessary to have machine work done to the track shaft.

The original Factory bearing was still in one piece but the ball bearing were all loose inside.

ATT72636.jpg ATT25330.jpg
 
Successful 5203 installation

Just completed the machining process in order to install the 5203 bearing and my 2010 DD required .056 material removed to match the same width as original bearing and spacer. All pressed back together and fits puuuurrrrrrr-fectly!

:becky:
 
Just completed the machining process in order to install the 5203 bearing and my 2010 DD required .056 material removed to match the same width as original bearing and spacer. All pressed back together and fits puuuurrrrrrr-fectly!

:becky:

How did you measure the amount you needed to take off?

Black Diamond is saying no machining is needed so I'm still on the fence about the need for machining.

Thanks.
 
I "mic'd" the stock (original) bearing and spacer together........compared that dimension to the new 5203 that I got from BDX. There was a .056 difference.

So we milled off .056" in order to get the "face" (exposed side you can see when on shaft) in the same position as the original setup.

I'm lucky that I have a friend who owns a machine shop and he made small work of it.

Process took about 1/2 hr and the unit re-assembled perfectly....no binding, nothing keeping the cover from fully seating, etc.

Q
 
Just Finished the install of the 5203 Double Row Bearing on my 2010 m8, I Completely removed the diamond drive from the chassis, I Had no fitment issues as well! When I talked to BDX he said it was not necessary to have machine work done to the track shaft.

The original Factory bearing was still in one piece but the ball bearing were all loose inside.

I wish BDX would get on here and clear this up once and for all. They tell one guy (me) with a 2010, machine the shaft, another don't machine the shaft, and another to machine the gear inside. I am not going to be very happy if I get my sled out this year and find a new problem related to machining down my track shaft as directed and then have to buy a new one.
 
Looking at the parts fiche, looks like the bearing seats into the ring gear.

By machining the shaft (which slides into the ring gear) it would make sense that less pressure is placed on the ring gear. The ring gear assy is not fixed, it slides into the DD housing and is sealed by an oil seal. If the ring gear is being forced to the left side because the track shaft is too long, then the ring gear therefore places more pressure on the bearing that is failing.

If the shaft is a hair too long, couldn't you place some washers on the caliper side spacer which would allow the whole shaft to move a hair more to the caliper side and then all is good? On my sled, the track would align better this way anyhow because it is a hair closer to the tunnel on the left side.

Looks to me like a slightly wider spacer on the caliper side would fix it too, or a gasket on the spacer, though whether it is a gasket or washers, I'm not sure how that might affect the strength at that point.

??
 
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i am going to be tearing into my 09. does anyone know if this complete kit consists of the new double row bearing?
 
well, it appears as if i have reached the limit of my basic membership and i cannot see the posts at the end of this thread. :second::second::second::second::second:

if anyone knows the answer to the question above please PM me because i wont be able to see your reply in the thread
 
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