I paid for a TPS adjustment, did I get one?

[CO Powder]

I left my sled with the dealer I bought it from in December for a poor idle condition. They charged me $85 for a TPS adjustment. The condition still exists after riding yesterday. Today I was doing some cleaning and noticed what I think is the TPS sensor with what look like factory paint marks where I assume the adjustment is made.

Before I go in there tomorrow and lodge a complaint I thought it prudent to ask if it looks like this TPS was adjusted last week...




Symptoms are warm idle is 1200-1300, sounds like it is loading up. Blipping the throttle clears it momentarily, it always falls back down and stumbles.

I have a nasty warm weather bog now too, never had a problem with my '13 and my buddy's '13 on the same ride was fine. Certainly could be the vapor lock type problem being discussed elsewhere.

I sure would like my new sled to run properly and, I utterly fail to understand why I am PAYING for repairs on a sled supposedly under factory bumper to bumper warranty. Any suggestions appreciated.

 

[Stroker Customs]

Did they say they made a change to the TPS or did they just check it? Typically the factory only marks one side with a paint pin so with yours being painted on both sides makes me think they at least looked at it. They could have made an adjustment on the idle screw on the throttle bodies as well. So they should back the idle screw all the way out and then set the TPS base setting. Then they should adjust the idle screw back down to idle position so the idle screw should definitely been moved if you paid them to adjust TPS. Not sure where you are located but I do have a dealer I work with and could look at it for you if you would like if you don't trust your dealer. If you bought a sled from them with warranty they should have looked at if for free if it has done it since you bought it from them but warranty does not cover preventative maintenance. I would push for them to do a static compression test for you as it sounds like you are low on compression. You will have those exact symptoms if your compression is low. If this is the case then yes it's a warranty issue.

 

[CO Powder]

I seriously doubt they added paint marks but, anything is possible. I still have it apart, I will look at the idle adjustment screw.

When the tech called to tell me it was done he told me they made a slight adjustment to the TPS. I also had some detonation codes stored, 6 of them. I have only ever seen the light come on once. I shut it down and it was fine when restarted. It has always has 91 fuel. I tried non eth for a while but the one pump in the smaller town I didn't trust it was as fresh as the 91 eth. I also didn't feel a performance difference, so it is on 91 eth, computer has always been set for the fuel in the tank. I ride above 10,000 feet all the time. The only change from stock are lighter exhaust valve springs.

 

[knocksum]

Just a thought. I changed out my pistons and had some injector wires just about rubbed through. I have a good feeling this happening to alot of people and hard to track down.

 

[LoudHandle]

I personally will not let the dealer adjust the TPS. For the simple fact that they typically use the digital wrench which (from my understanding) is not accurate enough (about as accurate as a $5 multimeter). If they used a Fluke or other quality multimeter, then that is a entirely different scenario.

I would also suspect that they did not do the complete setup procedure, where they are supposed to set / check the basline, before checking /setting the idle. Most check the idle value and assume the rest. They should also check for dead spots and check total span (good information to record if doing it yourself for troubleshooting / trending reasons).

For the money you spent just this once to have them not do it correctly, you could have bought a good used Fluke and never have to take it to them again. My dad taught me that lesson at an early age and it has served me well. Why pay someone else to do something you can do yourself? Typically the cost of the tool is what you'd pay someone to do it once or twice, depending on the task. That rule does not always work with modern electronics, but back in the day, was very true.

I'm Not preaching here, just relaying an alternative to getting bent over and F___ed at the dealer by minimum wage (think they are) "Sled Technicians".

 

[Stroker Customs]

I seriously doubt they added paint marks but, anything is possible. I still have it apart, I will look at the idle adjustment screw.

When the tech called to tell me it was done he told me they made a slight adjustment to the TPS. I also had some detonation codes stored, 6 of them. I have only ever seen the light come on once. I shut it down and it was fine when restarted. It has always has 91 fuel. I tried non eth for a while but the one pump in the smaller town I didn't trust it was as fresh as the 91 eth. I also didn't feel a performance difference, so it is on 91 eth, computer has always been set for the fuel in the tank. I ride above 10,000 feet all the time. The only change from stock are lighter exhaust valve springs.

So the lighter exhaust springs will have no effect. First thing I would start with is a compression check. If you are under 100 lbs of compression then that is the cause of the problem. If compression checks out fine then I would dig into the fuel system. Pull injectors jump the fuel pump and make sure they are not dripping or leaking. Then with the injectors pointed at a piece of card boart pull the rope over and you can look at the spray pattern of the injector and make sure they close. But again this all would be after I verified I have a motor with proper compression to idle.

Ethanol and non ethanol fuel will not show a direct performance gain. Ethanol should be avoided at all costs in my opinion. There is not a map or setting that can correct ethanol fuel. Ethanol attracts moisture and will cause unknown lean spots and that is the reason for hitting the DET sensor. Have to start with the basics first though and make sure we have a motor in good working condition then we can rule out the other issues

 

[diamonddave]

Is this a '15?

How many miles are on it?

Have you replaced the fuel filter?

The factory does apply paint marks to both sides. In your first pic, it does appear (at least to me) that the TPS has been readjusted since it was painted/marked at the factory. It looks like it is now in a very slightly different position. This has been my experience when adjusting most TPS'.

IMO, I would not go into the dealer with an accusation of not adjusting the TPS. The answer to whether you should be paying for it with a bumper to bumper warranty is entirely different.

 

[CO Powder]

The paint on the idle speed screw is worn off. They must have backed off the lock nut and then gone through the procedure. That is part of what I was trying to find out, BEFORE making accusations.

Yes, I could have bought the tools. I do not own a new, under warranty sled so that I have to start making more in depth repairs. I spend enough time keeping up on maintenance the way it is. I do not intend on keeping the sled past this season either. I do not want to have to do the job at all, I shouldn't have to.

The sled is a '14 I bought as a holdover. It has about 950 miles on it.

Compression test results coming soon...

 

[dboivin]

The paint on the idle speed screw is worn off. They must have backed off the lock nut and then gone through the procedure. That is part of what I was trying to find out, BEFORE making accusations.

Yes, I could have bought the tools. I do not own a new, under warranty sled so that I have to start making more in depth repairs. I spend enough time keeping up on maintenance the way it is. I do not intend on keeping the sled past this season either. I do not want to have to do the job at all, I shouldn't have to.

The sled is a '14 I bought as a holdover. It has about 950 miles on it.

Compression test results coming soon...

so its outside the 1yr factory warranty??? my dealer would not charge for this...

 

[Stroker Customs]

so its outside the 1yr factory warranty??? my dealer would not charge for this...

1 year warranty should have been from date of purchase and I believe they were doing extended warranty on holdovers as a promotional offer.

If this should be covered under warranty really kinda depends on how it was presented to them. If you just walk in and say I want my TPS checked and set then most dealers will gladly do as you ask and take your money. A good dealer should ask why what are we trying to accomplish here and then they can perform their own diagnostics. But if you go in and say I bought this sled and now it wont idle and they determine that the TPS was out of adjustment then yes they should not have charged you as it did not fix the problem. I think you really have to watch how you talk to a lot of dealers out there.

 

[rockinmranch]

Shouldn't this have been .5 hour charge $30-$45. That is what my dealer charges for a tps adjustment. I have stood there and watched. Usually less than 30 minutes, 15-20 realistically. Does the sled go into reverse? Nine times out of ten, in my experience, a sled that needs a tps adjustment will not go into reverse.

 

[CO Powder]

This is the first new sled I have bought from this dealer. There isn't a Polaris dealer with a decent rep within 100 miles of here so I took my chances with the closest one. The sled is under its first year of warranty. It was dropped off and I told them it wasn't idling correctly when warm. They gave me an $85 bill for the labor. I commented that I thought this should be warranty. They blew me off.

Too much more of this and I will switch brands...

 

[BILTIT]

Or just learn how to do it yourself, it's not hard to do.

 

[TRS]

Idle problems could be coming from your plug caps, pull them off and blow them out. Also make sure the plug caps are screwed on tight. BR9EYA plugs will also help low end idle and throttle response.
With 900 miles on this sled your primary clutch needs attending to. If you have not performed any maintenance on it, it's time.
I believe you have two unconnected problems occurring.

 

[Stroker Customs]

This is the first new sled I have bought from this dealer. There isn't a Polaris dealer with a decent rep within 100 miles of here so I took my chances with the closest one. The sled is under its first year of warranty. It was dropped off and I told them it wasn't idling correctly when warm. They gave me an $85 bill for the labor. I commented that I thought this should be warranty. They blew me off.

Too much more of this and I will switch brands...

Personally I would take it back and say they did not fix the problem so I either want my money back or fix the problem. Not really a corporate Polaris issue but it is a service department issue with the dealer. If they do not work with you I would cut my ties and find a better dealer that can fix the issue personally.

 

[winter4ever]

I was going to have a dealer do mine as well, I was having the same issues. They basically said they wont even really do it unless you clean the throttle bodies (or have them do it). I guess they get covered in belt dust and crap and effect the throttle position. My sled has 4k miles on it though, you wouldn't think a sled with 900 would have this problem yet but I am just throwing it out there for you.

 

[retiredpop]

I left my sled with the dealer I bought it from in December for a poor idle condition. They charged me $85 for a TPS adjustment. The condition still exists after riding yesterday. Today I was doing some cleaning and noticed what I think is the TPS sensor with what look like factory paint marks where I assume the adjustment is made.

Before I go in there tomorrow and lodge a complaint I thought it prudent to ask if it looks like this TPS was adjusted last week...


Symptoms are warm idle is 1200-1300, sounds like it is loading up. Blipping the throttle clears it momentarily, it always falls back down and stumbles.

I have a nasty warm weather bog now too, never had a problem with my '13 and my buddy's '13 on the same ride was fine. Certainly could be the vapor lock type problem being discussed elsewhere.

I sure would like my new sled to run properly and, I utterly fail to understand why I am PAYING for repairs on a sled supposedly under factory bumper to bumper warranty. Any suggestions appreciated.

When I adjusted the TPS on my sled the adjustment was so slight that you could not really see any difference looking at the factory paint marks but performance sure was better. I suspect if your condition did not improve they just hooked it up to Digital Wrench and measured the idle voltage. Maybe they charged labor because they did not find anything according to their tests?? I take it that the sled idles normally when cold. Too many shops just want to get it out the door as fast as possible and don't try to emulate symptoms customer is complaining about. Ask if they did a baseline setting procedure on the TPS. If they did then they better start replacing parts under warranty. Keep after them while you still have bumper to bumper warranty. If not this dealer then another one.

 

[Reg2view]

The deto codes you described could have been caused by overrev. You'll often never see it on the tach, even if you recorded it - there's a latency between what the MFG reads, and reality.

 

[CO Powder]

The deto codes you described could have been caused by overrev. You'll often never see it on the tach, even if you recorded it - there's a latency between what the MFG reads, and reality.

Almost certainly the case. The day it hit the DET light was a deeeeeep powder day and I cracked it wide open form a stop. I suspect just a little moisture on the clutches allowed the over rev.

 

[CO Powder]

Idle problems could be coming from your plug caps, pull them off and blow them out. Also make sure the plug caps are screwed on tight. BR9EYA plugs will also help low end idle and throttle response.
With 900 miles on this sled your primary clutch needs attending to. If you have not performed any maintenance on it, it's time.
I believe you have two unconnected problems occurring.

I cleaned the caps and plugs, I will pick up a new set of plugs today. The PTO side plug was really dusty, carbon almost poured out of the cap. I warmed it up to 120, shut it down and let it sit, restarted to try and replicate when I am having the issue and the idle was good. Not convinced it is fixed but maybe...

I haven't done anything to the clutches except regular cleanings and inspection. I suppose a new spring wouldn't be a bad idea. The one on my '13 snapped in three pieces around this milage last season.

I am pretty well convinced that the falling on its face was heat soak. It was after several long pulls, probably 2000 feet of elevation gain in 10-15 minutes in 50 degree + weather. Running down the other side letting it cool allowed it to pull just fine the rest of the afternoon.