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i have weelieing problems

4

440dart

Well-known member
my sled is makeing a little more hp then stock and has a little more traction then stock. iam really trying to make my stock suspension work until i can get an aftermarket skid like timbersled.

where i ride its kinda tight tree rideing where control is a must. when iam going slow and nail the gas the front comes up alot and is really tippy when it does this and instead of getting on top of the snow it trenches really bad instead of propelling forward. basicly the rear of the skid is collapsing and the front is exstending. i have my front track shock layed down collapse's easier and isnt pushing the front part of the skid down as much in this postion and my limiters are as tight as they will go unless i redrill them

does anybody have some things i can try thats relativly cheap got layed off low on cash. ive been looking at ovs coupler for the cat but dont have one for our polaris's would i be able to make one work on a polaris
 
........... my limiters are as tight as they will go unless i redrill them.

Ummmmmm, I'm no suspension genius, but the tighter they are, the more downward pressure its going to put on the rear of the track. I let mine out to allow the front of the track to lay flat when suspension is fully extended. You sure you're going the right direction with your suspension adjustments?
 
Are you running the WE (Walker Evans) shocks? If so how many miles? If you have (oh say) 500 miles or more your rear shock might meed to be rebuilt. If you don't have the WE, where is your limiter strap at? Sounds like you are in some similar country as I. Put it it the middle hole if not allready. The tippy issue is the way these sleds are made to work. You can help this with a different shock on your skis (stiffer) or go with a wider front end, like on the switchback. Don't know if this helps, we have had 4 of these sleds in our family, and know what you are going through. On my 09 the rear shock was wasted with less than 900 miles (WE). Don't get me wrong the WE are good shocks they just don't hold up real well. It is hard to buy new ones when you can rebuild them for 46 bucks a peace.
 
its not tippy when its moveing its when i nail the gas going very slow it has way to much transfer and way to much trenching when it transfers bad it gets really tippy hard to control because basicly its balanceing on the track. i have 1500mi on my sled had them check last year havnt rode it this year yet so iam guessing my shocks might be junk they dont have a springy feel so i guess thats good


makeing the limiters tighter makes for more ski pressue aka less wheeling dont beleive me take your limiters off take it for a ride you will have a wheelie machine on flat ground its a hp simulator:D
 
I talked to the guy at at Fastrax about rear suspension modifications when I ordered his drop & roll kit what he told me made sense. I can't remember exactly what he said but the front scissor gets straightened and that keeps the rear from collapsing, or something like that.
If it were me I would go with his D&R kit before I went with a longer chain case. I am just finishing up the D&R install and most of the work involved relocating the drive shaft anyway. It ain't on the snow yet and I will have a full report in a couple weeks.
We got crap for snow up here and I am not going to flog my sled out on the rocks like so many of my fellow Alaskans are doing right now.


:beer;:beer;:beer;:p
 
iam getting the chaincase from a guy thats built a ton of these and iam sure your probley running some drivers he makes best in the world. its a drop and roll chaincase just alot simpler then a kit
 
Have you got some room to move your rear scissor back, I'm talking room at the drop bracket as well as on the rail. How did you get to 174 extensions or rails? You could also try moving the front torque arm mounting holes up about an inch, it will add ski pressure though. Stiffer springs. Try adjusting your riding style/ bar positioning to get weight shifted forward.
 
my 800 was hard for me to handle until I laid the front track shock down. the top hole has 2 positions, I put it in the lower position and it made the sled much more enjoyable to ride in the trees
 
Also try a little clutching change, get it to leave a little softer, lower the engagement or try a lower starting angle helix. I know it will be a little harder with the CE on the trenching end of things.
 
well thanks for your guy's input

the skid is set back 1in i redrilled the rear scissor assy back 1in also the guy that makes the drivers "avid" where i got my rail exstension. iam running stock primary spring you would be surprised how much low end these pipes have i mean barely a difference if i hadnt riden the sled much with the single i probley wouldnt of even known a lowend difference but the top sure has changed:D


i put a block of wood under the rear suspencsion at the very back with me standing on the sled springs in the stiffest position i can make the track almost touch the tunnel the front portion dosnt even move because of the limiters, i know there is alot to be gained by a coupled suspension i watched to identical xps one with a timbersled the one with the timbersled would walk away from the stock one and he said it has way more control in the trees he rides both xps one is his daughters sled
 
iam thinking iam just beating a dead horse with this suspension i dont think i can make suite my needs but i be able to make it atleast "better"
 
Call K-MOD he might be able to give you some advice on how to set it up to work better.
 
A guy could install a triangle
shaped alluminum mount and use the edge 121 style plastic coupler blocks. I am not sure how the factory scissor would handle the force. Also to be accounted for would be the ride of this suspension once both ends of the skid work together being that usually they are independant persay, I would think that it would be oversprung/valves if you could get the coupling moment dialed. Have a look at timbersleds fit kits
for using stock rails, this could be very close to what I have in mind, I wold however use a cross shaft similar in shape to a tie rod as that is what the coupler block mounts look like, this cross shaft would stabilize the rails and take the twist out of the couplers since they would be mounted inboard a fair ways.
 
rear springs

iam thinking iam just beating a dead horse with this suspension i dont think i can make suite my needs but i be able to make it atleast "better"

Run the stiffer .375 rear springs that are made for the edge chassis they don't have the inch of free travel that the iq springs do. I will check with my dealer tomorrow and get you the part numbers or talk to curt at fastrax. This will keep your rear skid from collapsing.
 
A guy could install a triangle
shaped alluminum mount and use the edge 121 style plastic coupler blocks. I am not sure how the factory scissor would handle the force. Also to be accounted for would be the ride of this suspension once both ends of the skid work together being that usually they are independant persay, I would think that it would be oversprung/valves if you could get the coupling moment dialed. Have a look at timbersleds fit kits
for using stock rails, this could be very close to what I have in mind, I wold however use a cross shaft similar in shape to a tie rod as that is what the coupler block mounts look like, this cross shaft would stabilize the rails and take the twist out of the couplers since they would be mounted inboard a fair ways.


i did put a tie strap on from a cross bar in the front part of the skid to the rear scissor and it made it really stiff but iam not sure if haveing it connecting to the cross bar was affecting anything by pulling the skid back as i try to compress it " this was just an experiment"

do the cat and polaris skid share the same width i just cant see why i couldnt put the ovs coupler from a cat in the polaris
 
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