Here is the adjustment and set up spec sheet for the 2010 timbersled suspension
Understand How the Mtn. Tamer Suspension Works:
The biggest benefits of the Mtn. Tamer design is that it puts even pressure on the snow between the front and back portion of the suspension. This is achieved by our rear arm slide mechanism and the mounting position of the shocks. The slide mechanism couples the back portion of the suspension to the front at a specific spot in the range of travel. At this point the suspension will travel straight up into the tunnel, reduce the track angle, and applying the sleds weight toward the front, pulling it on top of the snow.
Knowing the 5 Adjustment Points on the Suspension: Limiter Strap: The limiter straps are only adjustable from one end (the top). The lower end must be fastened around the limiter strap cross shaft and in-between the 3 alignment spacers. The strap has 10 adjustment holes in the middle of the strap. At the top end of the strap there are 2 other holes to choose from. The hole that is closest to the end of the strap is the standard adjusting hole. The hole that is 3” down from the end of the strap is an optional hole that will give the strap 10 coarser adjustments (works well on high-horse power sleds). Optional Shock Mounting Locations: If you are using Timbersled slide rails, they will have 2 optional mounting locations for the front and back shock. The rearward holes are the standard mounting location; they will work the best for all around boondocking and deep powder riding. The forward holes will make the suspension 30% stiffer and more bottom-out resistant, they work well for larger riders and making more affective adjustments on turbo charged sleds. Float Shock Air Pressure: Note: In your installation instructions are recommended air pressure set-ups for each sled brand and rider weight. Your kit includes an air pump to adjust the spring rate of the shock. To do this, lift up the back end of the sled, remove the silver air valve-cap (be very careful that you do not get any moisture inside the air valve). Thread the pump onto the valve-stem until you feel the pump pressure up, you will be able to see the pressure on the gauge. Also keep in mind that when the pump pressures up the shock looses 4 psi. When you unthread the pump you will hear it release air but will not affect the exact pressure you gave it. When tuning your suspension it is best to change air pressure in increments of 10 psi at a time. The Mtn. Tamer shocks have specific air pressure range that they must run in so that you do not damage the suspension (depending on the hole location in the rails). Shock Pressure Ranges: Front shock in front hole, 40 to 80 psi Front shock in back hole, 75 to 100 psi Back shock in front hole, 120 to 175 psi Back shock in back hole, 130 to 175 psi
Warning: If your suspension is bottoming out you need to stop and readjust. If you are unable to make the shocks
perform properly you need to stop riding and contact us for assistance. Damage will occur if you ignore the problem. Back Arm Slide Mechanism: The slide mechanism has 2 adjustment points by adding or removing aluminum shims that are included in the kit.
1st you can adjust the sleds rear ride height by adding a shim onto the top side of the slide mechanism. This works well for fine tuning the amount of ski pressure your sled has on the trail without jeopardizing the amount of ski lift when climbing.
2nd you can adjust how much suspension couples by adding a shim to the bottom side of the slide mechanism. In conjunction with the limiter strap, this controls how much ski lift your sled will have.
Each sled brand has a max amount of shim you can add to the slide mechanism; if it is over shimmed the suspension will bind up. Max Shim for each sled Brand: Arctic Cat M-Series, ½” top ~ ¼” bottom Polaris IQ & Edge, ½” top ~ ¾” bottom Ski-Doo REV, ½” top ~ ¾” bottom Ski-Doo XP, ½” top ~ ½” bottom Yamaha (all), ½” top ~ ¾” bottom
Warning: Never exceed the max amount of shim that is recommended for your sled brand. Damage will occur if you do.
Recommended Set -Ups : Page 2 of 2
The given set-ups are intended to control ski lift and have been tested by Timbersled on various types of sleds. They are a good starting point to go by; however, every rider has a different liking and will need to fine tune the suspension from these set-up points.
Warning: The Mtn. Tamer is a high performance mountain sled back suspension. It has the ability to make extreme amounts of adjustments to the point of damaging results. The listed tuning set ups are universal. Know the limits of adjustability for your sled brand. There is no warranty on damage that is caused by tuning results. Normally Aspirated Sleds Slide shims: No shim on bottom & no shim on top (Up to 175 HP) Front shock: Middle to upper range of air pressures in rearward hole
Back shock: Lower to middle range of air pressures in rearward hole
Limiter strap: 3rd to 6th hole down, using standard end hole on strap
Turbo Sleds,6-12 psi of boost Slide shims: ½” shim on bottom & no shim on top (Up to 225 HP) Front shock: Lower to Middle range of air pressures in rearward hole
Back shock: Middle to upper range of air pressures in rearward hole
Limiter strap: 6th to 8th hole down, using standard end hole on strap
Turbo Sleds, 12 - 16 psi of boost Slide shims: ½” to ¾” shim on bottom & ¼” shim on top (Up to 250 HP) Front shock: Lower to Middle range of air pressures in forward hole
Back shock: Upper range of air pressures in rearward hole
Limiter strap: 5th hole down, using optional end hole on strap
Turbo Sleds, 16 - 20 psi of boost (162 - 174” track is mandatory to control this amount of power) (Up to 310 HP) Slide shims: ¾” shim on bottom & ¼” to ½” shim on top
Front shock: Lower range of air pressures in forward hole
Back shock: Middle to upper range of air pressures in forward hole
Limiter strap: 7th to 10th hole down, using optional end hole on strap
Turbo Sleds, 20 - 25 psi of boost (174” track is mandatory to control this amount of power) (Up to 375 HP) Slide shims: ¾” shim on bottom & ½” shim on top
Front shock: Lowest range of air pressures in forward hole
Back shock: Middle to upper range of air pressures in forward hole
Limiter strap: 10th hole down, using optional end hole on strap
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