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How many torn/ripped Axys tracks this year?

What exactly needs to be done to fix this issue? Is it just a matter of sliding the drivers over left or right on the shaft? I have zero miles on my sled unfortunately and would like to fix it myself before the wear happens. Thanks
Something is out of square in the chassi moving the drivers over will help a little but does not fix the problem. If your track is out of alignment take it to your dealer have them try to align it and double check there work. Ride it in there lot and make sure it stays aligned. If it doesn't stay aligned have dealer submit a claim with Polaris. That way there's a record of the issue and could help later on down the road.
 
My 2.6" 155 has the unusual wear on the unclipped part of the tracks as well. Never seen anything do that before, otherwise love my '16 since it has the nice strong K mod 37" a arms now :D Looking for an assault track to run around the Midwest and ill save my 2.6" for out west. The assault and 2.6" has the same driver pitch correct? I put on 700 miles this last year.
 
On the 3" lug tracks... It's even more important to maintain the proper tension on the track.

IMO.. a lot of the wear on the unclipped sections is from under-tensioned tracks that distort under load.



.
 
We have run 3 Axys in here my shop and from guitar string tight to 1" of slack at the correct spec- we still have the odd wear in the unclipped portion.

All our 2.6 tracks run true and don't have the odd uneven at the driver or upper tunnel spacing, claims sent to Polaris.
waiting a response
S/C
 
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On the 3" lug tracks... It's even more important to maintain the proper tension on the track.

IMO.. a lot of the wear on the unclipped sections is from under-tensioned tracks that distort under load.



.

That is what polaris will say to get out of replacing them. The more miles the worse it is. 2011-2015 PRO ride chassis does not have this problem. The 2.4 track installed on a 2016 and all of a sudden this wear appears on it as well. Track was tight.

There is an issue with this new chassis rear skid that causes it to be hard on tracks. It could be the drivers, the rails, track tension going too loose when the suspension is compressed under load (suspension geometry), etc. The quick fix is to clip every window. It would be nice to know the root of the problem and I don't think that it's the design of the 2.6 track. At $1600 CDN for a track and no hopes of warranty, would like to get this figured out.
 
My track has always been run tight and inspected, the same with my chain case. I checked it probably 5 times throughout the season and it only needed tightening at 70 miles which is normal, at the time it didn't show wear.
 
You guys that dont notice any internal wear, how do you guys ride? I ride 99.9% technical tree riding, and not that kind of riding where its 5-10 meters between the trees... Why i ask is because i think i've found the problem to why this is happening.

Its not due to the missing clips on the tracks. I think its because the track wants to push outwards during steep sidehilling, and that can now happend due to the removed outer hifax stops.
I know the inner stops are there, and when sidehilling it will stop on the rail/hifax stops thats laying furthest from the hill.

But i got a feeling that the track wants to go oval from that hifax stop and to the outer point of the track thats laying on the side of the hill. Thus the hifax is carving on the track like a butterknife.

I've always had my track tensioned perfectly and now after 600 miles i've changed hifax, rear idler wheels.

The rear idler wheels are also taking alot more stress from the sideforces due to the track can "slide" abit more. Thus it makes the "steering blocks" for the idler wheels starting to tear up the plastic on the idler wheels.

My hifax also shows an abnormal sign of wear.

Also one more thing why i think this is whats happening is due to my left knee damage. I have alot of problem sidehilling to the left because i "cant" do a wrong foot forward properly when supporting on my left leg.
And that clearly shows on my track because it doesnt show alot of wear on the right side of the track. But on the left side its like garbage...

Checked my shops SKS sleds who runs Peak belt that have hifax side stops and those belts look like new.
So when adding everything together it kinda points on one thing :face-icon-small-sad

Im going to upload some pictures in a new post.
 
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My 11 and 14 pros with the stock 5.1 had the exact same wear on both tracks. The 14 in the first 400 miles. Track tension checked often, running a float rear, track was often unsprung for pressure changes, and checking tension was just natural. FWIW, it's not unique to the 16 2.6.
 
Here are some more detailed pics of mine at the 1500 mile mark...







A few pics of my drivers as well. Anyone elses look like this too?





The drivers is from them hitting the lip of the clips.
Looks like the track wear is from the guide hoops on top of the front torque arm
 
My best guess was the rail tips on the front. Track is being thrown against them coming off the drivers. But not because it's cavitating. Could running a track to spec tightness be a contributing factor (less slack)? Front skid shock with more than average preload (more resistance)? Combined with no snow to lube the hifax near the tips (snow remaining in the tunnel is shot out in front of the track)? Dunno.


Two reference points have occurred to me over time - anyone with an anti-stab kit experiencing this? And, do RMK Assaults, with more front rail curve, have this issue with any track that has every other window clipped?


There is a specific set of conditions causing this - it's widespread, different locales, and the wear looks amazingly similar when it occurs. And its occurring on different poo tracks with every other window clipped.
 
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