I want to get some more horsepower out of my 2011 800 RMK, what is my best option for an upgrade that won't void the factory warranty?
Horsepower suggestions
- Thread starter Dstunner
- Start date
Buy an E-Tec
All take light weight and mobility over the eight more horse I might get from an e-tech.
RMK-King
Super-Moderator
I think he wanted polaris hp.
I don,t know how much more humiliation you guys want?..
Before this turns into yet another my sled is better than your sled sh*tshow...
Judging by all the "Do not modify" stickers in the owner's manual... (including clutching!!!) I don't think there is such a thing as a non warranty voiding upgrade. I'm working on dialing in my clutching to use the horsepower that I have (and keeping my dealer aware of what I'm doing to keep my warranty intact)
My Pro RMK has a four year warranty. I don't want to void it either. My best option (remember, this is my opinion for me and my ability) for a performance upgrade is a riding school. I'd rather have a Burandt, Rasmussen, Adams, etc. show me how to use the performance I have rather than bolting on more that I may not be able to exploit.
Remember, I don't know you or your ability. In no way am I implying you can't ride. But really, which one of us couldn't learn to ride better??
1
1404cat
Member
AMEN
I couldn't have said it better myself!!
D
Daniel Boondocker
Well-known member
Quote by Murf. "My best option (remember, this is my opinion for me and my ability) for a performance upgrade is a riding school. I'd rather have a Burandt, Rasmussen, Adams, etc. show me how to use the performance."
Great Point! I'm sold. But I still think I could use a favorite add on or two from may past favorites. Delrin washers surely wouldn't void anyones warranty. Nor would some venting. Wouldn't they be like added insurance.
Great Point! I'm sold. But I still think I could use a favorite add on or two from may past favorites. Delrin washers surely wouldn't void anyones warranty. Nor would some venting. Wouldn't they be like added insurance.
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slp single pipe, head, pcv and v-force reed... Tied clutch and mtx weights and maybe some gearing.. You won't be disappointed... On the other end of the sled, revalve your shocks.....
As an owner of both summits and pros, gotta address the etec suggestion...
Sure, pay $1-2k more for another 3hp or so to the track at 10k feet. Hmmm, with stock doo clutching, might not even be 3hp. With that said, assuming either one starts, of course. Nice try, tho...
Sure, pay $1-2k more for another 3hp or so to the track at 10k feet. Hmmm, with stock doo clutching, might not even be 3hp. With that said, assuming either one starts, of course. Nice try, tho...
Go on a diet that should give more HP 
. Leave it alone, set your shocks for your weight and do some clutching.
. Leave it alone, set your shocks for your weight and do some clutching.
Don't get me wrong the sled works like a dream stock.. But now that I am 10 times the rider I was last year because I can do what I want when I want on this sled because it is the sled that it is, I like the extra HP cuz I can do even more with this sled... I have never had this much fun on a sled in my life... And I own a turbo Assault that is just sittin there all alone in the shop on the weekends....lol... The Pro is a real WOW factor..
The Doo guy is jealous. He must not have either been on a Pro or had one kick his *** yet. The Pro will win the shootout this year hands down. Cat and Doo know it. It handles better and it puts the power on the snow regardless of what the horsepower numbers are. The Pro rides circles around the rest without wearing you out in the process. Doo clutching is a joke and everyone knows it. They also are notorious for breaking down in the worst places. I know because I have helped drag a few of them out. They are a POS. The Cat is better but not in the same league as a Pro.
As far as adding horsepower, I seriously have to ask why? The sled is capable of going places that only turbos sleds used to go and they do it so much more easily. I did venting, shock revalving and clutching. None of that voided my warranty according to my dealer, the Best in the West, Carl's Cycles. Their clutching flat works. Check it out. 208.853.5550 The turbo Pros are nice but overkill for what I do. I have been stuck once this year on the Pro and that was rider error not the machine.
As far as adding horsepower, I seriously have to ask why? The sled is capable of going places that only turbos sleds used to go and they do it so much more easily. I did venting, shock revalving and clutching. None of that voided my warranty according to my dealer, the Best in the West, Carl's Cycles. Their clutching flat works. Check it out. 208.853.5550 The turbo Pros are nice but overkill for what I do. I have been stuck once this year on the Pro and that was rider error not the machine.
I agree, work on riding skills and don't worry about the motor. The pro is a very good sled. Actually I can do anything on a dragon or my mod sled that I can do on the pro,BUT the pro is way way easier to do it on. You will also find that the better you ride the smaller the difference between sleds, as you figure out how to go where you want,the pro just lets you do this much much better and speeds up the learning curve... Look at it this way how often are you holding the throttle pinned on the pro?? Trust me the only place where it could use a bit more power is if you are climbing chutes. Clutch,vents,suspention...done, pull and go.
I love messing with stuff and all my sleds have been highly modded,its just fun to work on things, the pro needs very little. And the warrenty is a very good thing to boot...IMHO
Look at it this way how often are you holding the throttle pinned on the pro?? Trust me the only place where it could use a bit more power is if you are climbing chutes. Clutch,vents,suspention...done, pull and go. I love messing with stuff and all my sleds have been highly modded,its just fun to work on things, the pro needs very little. And the warrenty is a very good thing to boot...IMHO
he said things that will NOT viod warranty. X2 on clutching and learning to ride smarter and better.
Yes, clutching for sure, not thats its that much better,but it now is atuned to my riding style (best mod for me)
Tried various gear changes, back to stock not worth the time to take the chain case apart..lol
imho if you change pipe,can,y pipe,head,pcv,intake yeah you will for sure pick up a SMALL gain in power, is it worth 86ing the warrenty and running race gas mix ?? well thats just up to the rider
track?? ummm I run cammo ext on all my other sleds, however On the pro i'm likin the stock track so far.
so one sled has 10 more hp, if I ride a stocker 5 mph faster than he does through the trees I go places he cant even with 10 hp...So bottom line is I believe that there are very few riders who can actually ride a bone stock pro to its full potential as it sits.
Tried various gear changes, back to stock not worth the time to take the chain case apart..lol
imho if you change pipe,can,y pipe,head,pcv,intake yeah you will for sure pick up a SMALL gain in power, is it worth 86ing the warrenty and running race gas mix ?? well thats just up to the rider
track?? ummm I run cammo ext on all my other sleds, however On the pro i'm likin the stock track so far.
so one sled has 10 more hp, if I ride a stocker 5 mph faster than he does through the trees I go places he cant even with 10 hp...So bottom line is I believe that there are very few riders who can actually ride a bone stock pro to its full potential as it sits.
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S
srosscojw
Active member
In any thing but dry soft fluff the CE is noticealbly better.
People are trying to be helpful here...
Askyourself... good tips for sure... more HP is good IMO... And I think that once the warranty is expired... definitely something to look into... especially after there are more miles, in the consumers hands, on the engine mods.
I am a HUGE advocate of Riding Clinics...Especially the ones that focus more on the "clinic" side of the experience with an actual evaluation and class-plan to bring the riders up to another level of riding. Classes like Dan Adams Next Level courses, Amber Holt Backcountry Basics are great places that are geared around this. If you are already an true advanced rider... Chris Burandt's Backcountry Adventures or Bret Rasmussen's "ride Rasmussen style" is a good place to go to see what is possible and ride with Chris in some super challenging conditions.
IMO... The best performance "add on" is to improve your physical/athletic abilities... you will become a much better rider with less effort
I've watched Dan Adams throw a leg over a much lower HP sled and smoke somebody on their big, bad turbo that was a lesser rider on the same slope or tree section.
Clutching for your area... and having your shock package dialed in for your weight/riding style is the way to go.
The shocks on the pro are already top notch...but getting them tailored to "YOU" is like getting a pair of shoes that fit just right... Holz and Carl's have great Revalve upgrade package for your sled at a modest price....
Durability items like a better rear bumper from CoBe or SPG and a better front bumper that protects the fwd wings of the side panels from SPG... Good way to go.
Then comes the weight as you are riding....
Showroom light weight is great... but if you cant keep ice and snow from building up on the mountain... then you can keep the sled from gaining upwards of 70 lbs of ice and snow.
Simple things like taping over the holes on the snow flap support aluminum so snow ice does not form a block there... Hard coat anodizing powdercoating the rails (only powder coat with a high quality shop... that can properly prep and do lower temp pow coating and not bake the heck out the rails to loose the heat treating in the rails... I used to think that this was a wives tale... I don't think that any longer... especially on the new style rails).
Shock spring covers from SPG or others keeps ice from building up on the springs.
Arctic FX tunnel side vinyl (with or without graphics) to keep ice buildup on the tunnel sides down to a minimum.
Coated Better boards to keep the the snow and ice down to a minimum especially if you are a rider that is cracking the stock boards.... great add on.
Pow coat the spindles to keep ice off (again with the precautions that were used on the rails).
Venting on the PRO for serious mountain use, IMO, is a very good idea and I've gone into this in another thread... once that is done... you can then install a plastic plate to cover the front of the stirrup area like the ones from CoBe or Mt. Fit... Keeps that big chunk of ice from building up.
If you are no longer worried about the warranty... there are some mods to do that will give you some noticeable improvements in power.
Askyourself... good tips for sure... more HP is good IMO... And I think that once the warranty is expired... definitely something to look into... especially after there are more miles, in the consumers hands, on the engine mods.
I am a HUGE advocate of Riding Clinics...Especially the ones that focus more on the "clinic" side of the experience with an actual evaluation and class-plan to bring the riders up to another level of riding. Classes like Dan Adams Next Level courses, Amber Holt Backcountry Basics are great places that are geared around this. If you are already an true advanced rider... Chris Burandt's Backcountry Adventures or Bret Rasmussen's "ride Rasmussen style" is a good place to go to see what is possible and ride with Chris in some super challenging conditions.
IMO... The best performance "add on" is to improve your physical/athletic abilities... you will become a much better rider with less effort
I've watched Dan Adams throw a leg over a much lower HP sled and smoke somebody on their big, bad turbo that was a lesser rider on the same slope or tree section.
Clutching for your area... and having your shock package dialed in for your weight/riding style is the way to go.
The shocks on the pro are already top notch...but getting them tailored to "YOU" is like getting a pair of shoes that fit just right... Holz and Carl's have great Revalve upgrade package for your sled at a modest price....
Durability items like a better rear bumper from CoBe or SPG and a better front bumper that protects the fwd wings of the side panels from SPG... Good way to go.
Then comes the weight as you are riding....
Showroom light weight is great... but if you cant keep ice and snow from building up on the mountain... then you can keep the sled from gaining upwards of 70 lbs of ice and snow.
Simple things like taping over the holes on the snow flap support aluminum so snow ice does not form a block there... Hard coat anodizing powdercoating the rails (only powder coat with a high quality shop... that can properly prep and do lower temp pow coating and not bake the heck out the rails to loose the heat treating in the rails... I used to think that this was a wives tale... I don't think that any longer... especially on the new style rails).
Shock spring covers from SPG or others keeps ice from building up on the springs.
Arctic FX tunnel side vinyl (with or without graphics) to keep ice buildup on the tunnel sides down to a minimum.
Coated Better boards to keep the the snow and ice down to a minimum especially if you are a rider that is cracking the stock boards.... great add on.
Pow coat the spindles to keep ice off (again with the precautions that were used on the rails).
Venting on the PRO for serious mountain use, IMO, is a very good idea and I've gone into this in another thread... once that is done... you can then install a plastic plate to cover the front of the stirrup area like the ones from CoBe or Mt. Fit... Keeps that big chunk of ice from building up.
If you are no longer worried about the warranty... there are some mods to do that will give you some noticeable improvements in power.
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