The primary on my 2008 XP does not want to pop off, so where does a person apply heat to help persuade it?
Help my primary clutch won't pop off
- Thread starter JamesS
- Start date
try this.....lean on the puller good after lubing the threads and the snout that hits the crank. when it will not go any more give it a pop with a hammer on the end of the bolt. you don't need to smack it like it called you a bad name....just a little rap.....tighten and try again...it will pop.
Put some grease in the hole before threading in the puller. Heat should be applied near the taper of the crank. Whatever you do, don't hit the puller with a hammer, you could ruin your crank......
tip your sled onto the exhaust side, remove your primary clutch bolt. fill the bolt hole with water right to the top. take the clutch bolt, not the puller, and wrap the threads with thread tape. thread the taped bolt into the water filled bolt hole until you feel resistance, 3 more turns of the bolt and your primary will pop right off. it's crazy, but it works the best of any trick I have ever tried.
I wouldn't apply heat to the clutch, just asking for problems. I also would use a deadblow or a rubber mallet to tap the puller. Grease or water in the crank seems to work the best. Try to get away without using heat or hammers, it may or may not cause damage, but why take the chance.
Good luck. Just my .02
Nolan
Good luck. Just my .02
Nolan
out of the manual''..hit with a hammer...
��NOTE: Before installing the clutch puller, apply
oil to the threads of the puller and a small amount
of grease to the tip of the puller.
4. Using the Clutch Puller (p/n 0644-207) - threeroller
style or (p/n 0644-446) - four-roller style
and a breaker bar and the Drive Clutch Spanner
Wrench (p/n 0644-136), tighten the puller. If the
drive clutch will not release, sharply strike the
head of the puller. Repeat this step until the clutch
releases.
5. Remove the drive clutch from the engine compartment
X
XXL
Well-known member
Read this thread,http://www.dootalk.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=306844. And also the link that is contained in it. This helped me and after my last bad advice post
you better read it for yourself.
you better read it for yourself.
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D
decarls
Member
This is the best advise you're going to get. I finally tried this trick this winter. I no longer use a puller and neither do any of my friends/family. Not worth rapping on the crank & risking damage.
What they said. ^^^^^^ It works.
S
sleddinhusker
Member
So do you need the puller at all?
I was going to order one, but with the water trick, do you need the puller for anything, say, to separate the clutch after it is off? Just curious.
Thanks guys.
I was going to order one, but with the water trick, do you need the puller for anything, say, to separate the clutch after it is off? Just curious.
Thanks guys.
I only use the puller for splitting the halves, you could use the stock bolt I suppose, but it's kind of short. not sure what a stock bolt costs, but it's gotta be cheaper than the puller.
once the clutch is off, I thread the puller in 4 or 5 turns and while hanging on to the sliding half, drop the clutch down and bang the puller end on the concrete floor (while still hanging on to the sliding half). The stock bolt should do the same, but i would have a spare one to do it with in case the bolt head suffers damage from hitting the concrete.
not sure about the Polaris clutches, are they on a tapered shaft as well? can't see why it wouldn't, but again, I'm not familiar with Poo clutches.
yes, the water trick will work using the puller as well.
1. Yes, the water trick works on polaris.
2. I have seen bad things happen to those who use the clutch bolt. Its not as hard as the puller and can break off in the crank/ ruin threads on the bolt. I personally wouldn't risk that on my sled. I have seen it work many times, and I have seen it go bad a few also. All depends I guess.
Just my .02
Nolan
2. I have seen bad things happen to those who use the clutch bolt. Its not as hard as the puller and can break off in the crank/ ruin threads on the bolt. I personally wouldn't risk that on my sled. I have seen it work many times, and I have seen it go bad a few also. All depends I guess.
Just my .02
Nolan
using the stock bolt to do what, split the halves, or remove the clutch from the crank?
remove the clutch. Cousin had an old old doo that he always removed with the clutch bolt. Don't ask me how me did it, but he managed to. I can't figure out how he did. I know it seems like a line of BS, but he could remove the clutch with the stock bolt on his sled. Finally broke on him though.
I just grease up the taper before I put my clutch back on. It is sooooo easy to get off now.
Whoa!! Do not grease up or put anything else on the taper, clutches or anything else mounted on a tapered shaft should be clean & dry ONLY.
Torque to spec. and that's it.
Now for getting your clutch off, (Bombi) I had to do some clutch work recently so I tried the clutch bolt trick and was amazed how easy that was. No effort, hardest part was finding the Teflon tape I knew I had put away somewhere. No hammering, barely felt any resistence and off it comes, along with that both halves were already split, bonus. This is the way to go, no grease to play with, nice and clean, spend the $ a puller would cost you on more sled goodies or cold
ah, I see. he must have had a pin or bolt he put in the hole first before the clutch bolt. the water trick works so easy there is no stress on the bolt or threads. you can be holding the clutch with one hand, and turning the bolt with the other hand when it pops off. I'll never use the puller again for removal.
