....
Thanks MH
It's not so easy to find with my phone.
Thanks MH
It's not so easy to find with my phone.
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HEADS UP TO THOSE WITH 2013/14 THAT ARE NOT RUNNING HEADLIGHTS
- Thread starter mountainhorse
- Start date
Thanks for the heads up.
The descriptions were there, would have been easy to look it up. Took me 2 minutes to find the new listings.
I do this as a volunteer... Fixed it for you.
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The descriptions were there, would have been easy to look it up. Took me 2 minutes to find the new listings.
I do this as a volunteer... Fixed it for you.
.
hey MH, i got a couple of ?'s for ya
you said to run the LED lights on your high beam side and the resistor on the low beam side so you can turn off the light, love the idea.
when your on the highbeam side it would just be the light and bridge rectifier then, so total you would only be using 2.8 amps. with it just using 2.8 amps do you feel the the VR is ok burning off that amount of unused amps (about 5)
i am assuming that you hooked both high beam wires to the light and both low beams to the resistor?
after your comment about using the DC plug i changed mine up, on 1 headlight plug, the one the light is goin to, i installed a bridge rectifier, the light (35W AND 2.8AMPS) and a 10 ohm resistor to draw the original 4.1 amps and on the other plug i installed a 3.5ohm resistor to also draw 4.1
amps. i cant turn mine off this way but i had the resistors layn around
you said to run the LED lights on your high beam side and the resistor on the low beam side so you can turn off the light, love the idea.
when your on the highbeam side it would just be the light and bridge rectifier then, so total you would only be using 2.8 amps. with it just using 2.8 amps do you feel the the VR is ok burning off that amount of unused amps (about 5)
i am assuming that you hooked both high beam wires to the light and both low beams to the resistor?
after your comment about using the DC plug i changed mine up, on 1 headlight plug, the one the light is goin to, i installed a bridge rectifier, the light (35W AND 2.8AMPS) and a 10 ohm resistor to draw the original 4.1 amps and on the other plug i installed a 3.5ohm resistor to also draw 4.1
amps. i cant turn mine off this way but i had the resistors layn around
I have a bigger LED light bar for a truck in my garage that i half fast hooked up to the sled. Fired it up and the light turned on no problem. So should be no need for a rectifier.
if you hooked the light to the dc plug then yes it will work, but like MH said thats prob not the best spot. if you hook the light into the original lighting plug then you need a rectifier because the lighting/hand warmers are AC
I did hook the light to the original headlight plug. never once touched teh dc plug.
Your light must have a rectifier internally... LED's cannot run off of AC power.
Sounds good though..
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Sounds good though..
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I just bought a boondocker turbo, they say no issues with running the oil pump off dc plug, I dont like that tho.
Can i do a headlight delete and get a ac to dc rectifier to hook to my light circuit and then run my oil pump for the turbo off that ? and still run the air to air fan off the plug they recommend ? then I would install a led light that draws 1.6 amps, where would I hook that up. ?
I read about this on one of your posts but cant find it now.
If you can lead me through this with what I need and where I can get it, that would be very much appreciated.
swapping the 2012 vr for the 2013 vr?
quick question,
am I completely removing the 2013 voltage regulator all together for the 2012 vr? or does the 2013 vr have two separate plugs and all im doing is removing the one rubber 3-prong wire to plug into the 2012 vr? thanks for your time!
quick question,
am I completely removing the 2013 voltage regulator all together for the 2012 vr? or does the 2013 vr have two separate plugs and all im doing is removing the one rubber 3-prong wire to plug into the 2012 vr? thanks for your time!
I did it the same way. Bolted it to the belt guard.
On my new 13, I had a Boondocker Performance 100W 2 ohm resistor lying around. I mounted it to the upper frame assembly (aluminum plate where carbon fiber support arms attach) and tapped into the hot wire going up to the headlights (thick yellow wire with red stripe) where the hood assembly plug connects and tapped into the ground wire at the same place (thick green wire).
I will get some photos tonight and post up.
I will get some photos tonight and post up.
"Run the brown wire to one side of the resistor... solder it on the resistor and use heat shrink tube over it... then run two wires from the other side of the resistor and run that into the connector for the yellow/red and dark-green/yellow wires.. that way... if you bump your high beam switch, you are not disconnecting the resistor."
so green is not the ground? brown to the black and green and yellow to the red in the photo?
here is photo
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Phatty.
Green is Canbus (data feed) to the gauge. NEVER USE THIS.
- Brown is ground AC system
- Brown with White is ECU Ground.
- Yellow with Red is High beam.
- Green with Yellow is Low beam
- Red with Yellow is the power from the ECU Voltage regulator that runs through the 2 amp fuse.
Not sure what you mean by "thick" as they are all fairly small gauge 18 - 24 gauge.
Are you sure you didn't tap into the Green/yellow??? If so, then you are hooking to the low beam on one side of the resistor and high beam on the other.... No harm... but you need to use the Brown on one side (chassis ground) and the Yellow/red on the other (hi beam)
I hope you didn't hook to the solid green.
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Green is Canbus (data feed) to the gauge. NEVER USE THIS.
- Brown is ground AC system
- Brown with White is ECU Ground.
- Yellow with Red is High beam.
- Green with Yellow is Low beam
- Red with Yellow is the power from the ECU Voltage regulator that runs through the 2 amp fuse.
Not sure what you mean by "thick" as they are all fairly small gauge 18 - 24 gauge.
Are you sure you didn't tap into the Green/yellow??? If so, then you are hooking to the low beam on one side of the resistor and high beam on the other.... No harm... but you need to use the Brown on one side (chassis ground) and the Yellow/red on the other (hi beam)
I hope you didn't hook to the solid green.
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So I decided to also get an additional VR to separate out the headlights from the ECU. I bought the SPI replacement for like $36 on ebay. Anyways I bolted to the clutch guard with a couple 1/4" bolts. Here is a couple pics of it mounted. Better to be safe than sorry.
I mounted like this so it wouldn't rub on the oil tank.
I mounted like this so it wouldn't rub on the oil tank.
Green/yellow is what I connected the "ground" of the resistor too. And the yellow/red to the "red" wire of the resistor. I never started the sled - so I will just tap the black wire of resistor to the brown wire of the headlight and the green/yellow to the "red" along with the yellow/red that is already connected!
Thanks MH
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks MH
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Skinz headlight delete kit
Ok, so i just made the purchase of the skinz headlight delete kit with the rigid SR-M2 for my 2013 pro! After going through this thread numerous times, im starting to regret my purchase as im clueless with electrical! Thought it would be an easy plug and play like the Light bar on my f150! So far, all i understand is that i'll be needing the 11-12 VR to delete the lights, but adding the one led light bar @7-36vdc is requiring some rocket science experience! So far, i think that i'll need a rectifier? 2ohms 100? And where would i plug the led light to? The original lights? Wish i had an "electronics for dummies" in my back pocket!
Ok, so i just made the purchase of the skinz headlight delete kit with the rigid SR-M2 for my 2013 pro! After going through this thread numerous times, im starting to regret my purchase as im clueless with electrical! Thought it would be an easy plug and play like the Light bar on my f150! So far, all i understand is that i'll be needing the 11-12 VR to delete the lights, but adding the one led light bar @7-36vdc is requiring some rocket science experience! So far, i think that i'll need a rectifier? 2ohms 100? And where would i plug the led light to? The original lights? Wish i had an "electronics for dummies" in my back pocket!
do you know the watts of your light bar. you need to know that to figure out amps draw, if you can get me that then i could figure out what resistors you need. i got the headlight plugs from ebay so cleanly wire into your stock headlight harness. yes you will need a bridge rectifier to convert ac to dc so the led light will work
if you need any help just pm me
if you need any help just pm me
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