HEADS UP TO THOSE WITH 2013/14 THAT ARE NOT RUNNING HEADLIGHTS
- Thread starter mountainhorse
- Start date
If running 2 55 watt bulbs (9amps) off of one of the oem headlight plugs, does the other oem plug require a resistor?
I assume not as there is 9 amps of load there which is the same as stock... Just going through one plug and leaving the other un used.
I assume not as there is 9 amps of load there which is the same as stock... Just going through one plug and leaving the other un used.
high beems are 60w take your total watts 60X2 = 120 now divide 120watts by volts 14.6 v and get 8.2volts AC. to find what watt of resistor you need you take volts14.6 X current 8.2amps and get 119ish well call it 120, so you would need a 120watt resistor
to find ohms you take volts14.6 and davide by current8.2 amps and get 1.8
so if you were goin to use 1 resistor you would need a 120 watt 2 ohms resistor
if you were to use 2 resistor (1 in each head light socket) you woul take 60w davided by 14.6 and get 4.1ish amps then take volts14.6/by current 4.1 and get 3.5 ohms to find watt you take volts14.6X current 4.1 and get 60ish
so if you used 2 resistor (1 in each socket) you need 2 60 watt 3.5 ohms resistors
to find ohms you take volts14.6 and davide by current8.2 amps and get 1.8
so if you were goin to use 1 resistor you would need a 120 watt 2 ohms resistor
if you were to use 2 resistor (1 in each head light socket) you woul take 60w davided by 14.6 and get 4.1ish amps then take volts14.6/by current 4.1 and get 3.5 ohms to find watt you take volts14.6X current 4.1 and get 60ish
so if you used 2 resistor (1 in each socket) you need 2 60 watt 3.5 ohms resistors
Last edited:
no, if using both bulbs in 1 socket would still be tha same total draw, so no need to put a resitor in the other socket, your wires mite not like that cause now the wire would have twice the current runin threw them if both bulbs were runing off 1 socket
Ya I am not saying its a for sure solution, but IMO some load off the VR is better than none. I think we are accomplishing the same thing, just you are doing it with one and I am splitting the load. On my 12' Assault I ran a whole season without a headlight with no resistor. No issues, but I know this sled has the one VR so I just figured this is better than rolling the dice. I will report back after receiving it and see if its a viable option. I am not an expert in the electrical dept either...
Last edited:
you are right, something is better than nothing,
So is anyone coming out with a plug and play kit? There's lots of advice and suggestions on how to do this and it seems that most who are attempting it have varying ideas of how to get it accomplished. I need a step by step pictorial with part numbers, or better yet pay someone to make it for me.
This is from Mountain horses original post:
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
"IMO... In that situation where you are not running a headlight load... Simply disconnect the AC 3-wire Rubber connector on the stock combined and run an inexpensive separate regulator that is well heat-sinked to aluminum.
Use Polaris #4010794 that will simply plug into the factory harness still on the 2013's. This was used on Edge sleds equipped with Electric start and all the 2011/12 PRO RMK's.
It WILL need to be mounted to metal that will allow transfer of heat from the VR.
That way, if you your lighting/charging VR fails because you have low load on the unit or thermal load... It does not take out your other regulator.
The price from Polaris is about the same as the price from WPS (#12-3081) or HiPerf (#174-202)
This is what the voltage regs look like from the EDGE sleds and the 2010/11/12 PRO RIDE sleds"
----------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
"IMO... In that situation where you are not running a headlight load... Simply disconnect the AC 3-wire Rubber connector on the stock combined and run an inexpensive separate regulator that is well heat-sinked to aluminum.
Use Polaris #4010794 that will simply plug into the factory harness still on the 2013's. This was used on Edge sleds equipped with Electric start and all the 2011/12 PRO RMK's.
It WILL need to be mounted to metal that will allow transfer of heat from the VR.
That way, if you your lighting/charging VR fails because you have low load on the unit or thermal load... It does not take out your other regulator.
The price from Polaris is about the same as the price from WPS (#12-3081) or HiPerf (#174-202)
This is what the voltage regs look like from the EDGE sleds and the 2010/11/12 PRO RIDE sleds"
So all I need to do is buy pn#4010794 and plug it right in and mount it on the clutch cover? Seems easy enough.
with the parts i ordered, plus the lil bit of wiring and soldering, it would be about $20 bucks. here in the next week or so i will have pics, part #'s
the way i did it was get those male headlight connecters like MH said to get from ebay $6, then i used a 100w 2ohm resistor $7. i used both headlight connections and took both low beam and both high beam wire from both sockets and soldered them together for power in and them took both grounds and soldered them. that way the wires are dealing with the same current the regularly have had. i made an aluminum clamp mount to go onto the frame brace to mount the resistor to. and used heat sink grease. i did get a VR from a 12 pro and mounted it down on the belt guard by the original VR
This is from Mountain horses original post:
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
"IMO... In that situation where you are not running a headlight load... Simply disconnect the AC 3-wire Rubber connector on the stock combined and run an inexpensive separate regulator that is well heat-sinked to aluminum.
Use Polaris #4010794 that will simply plug into the factory harness still on the 2013's. This was used on Edge sleds equipped with Electric start and all the 2011/12 PRO RMK's.
It WILL need to be mounted to metal that will allow transfer of heat from the VR.
That way, if you your lighting/charging VR fails because you have low load on the unit or thermal load... It does not take out your other regulator.
The price from Polaris is about the same as the price from WPS (#12-3081) or HiPerf (#174-202)
This is what the voltage regs look like from the EDGE sleds and the 2010/11/12 PRO RIDE sleds"
----------------------------------------------------------------------
So all I need to do is buy pn#4010794 and plug it right in and mount it on the clutch cover? Seems easy enough.
you can just use the original, BUT on a 13 its also part of your ecm VR and expensive, i did it this way so if i did burn out a VR its only $70
ok, i am removing the headlight on my sled and installing led lights. I am not 100% following the above formulas. I do understand that I need to put a resistor in. I would like to use 2 resistors. one on each headlight plug. I am going to be using these rigid lights. http://www.rigidindustries.com/D2-LED-Light-Driving-p/d2-dr.htm can someone help me out with the equation so I know what size of resistors I need.
no prob, each light is 60w highbeam powerd by 14.6v, take 60/14.6=4.1 amp
to finds watts you take 14.6vX4.1amps=59.86 so say 60watts
to find ohms you take14.6v/4.1amps=3.5ohms
so if you put 1 resistor in each of your headlight plugs you would need a 60watt 3.5ohm resistor. ohms are the important part, if you cant find a 60w resistor no big deal, just go bigger, just make sure whatever watts you buy is 3.5ohms
to finds watts you take 14.6vX4.1amps=59.86 so say 60watts
to find ohms you take14.6v/4.1amps=3.5ohms
so if you put 1 resistor in each of your headlight plugs you would need a 60watt 3.5ohm resistor. ohms are the important part, if you cant find a 60w resistor no big deal, just go bigger, just make sure whatever watts you buy is 3.5ohms
That Light pulls 34 watts... Run a bridge rectifier off the headlight plug (cleanest is to use the connectors on the first page for this) and run your LED array off that.
DO NOT use the DC power plug for your light.
If you don't want to run the LED light all the time (actually safer on the trails if you do and might be illegal in some areas of you don't)
I still feel it is best to run a the separate VR for the charging/lighting circuit if you are going to mod the headlights in the 2013 and 2014 PRO's... The 2011/2012's already run a separate VR. (the part numbers for the separate VR are in this thread)
.
DO NOT use the DC power plug for your light.
If you don't want to run the LED light all the time (actually safer on the trails if you do and might be illegal in some areas of you don't)
I still feel it is best to run a the separate VR for the charging/lighting circuit if you are going to mod the headlights in the 2013 and 2014 PRO's... The 2011/2012's already run a separate VR. (the part numbers for the separate VR are in this thread)
.
Last edited:
The light I have pulls more than 2 amps...
Did you change the fuse to a larger one??
I'm not a fan of running anything more than a cell phone charger off that DC connection... It is the same VRR that supplies the ECU/injectors ... If you take out the VRR for that... your sled stops working... if you take out a separate lighting VRR.. then all you have is no lights and no handwarmers... no big deal.
Also... if you've removed your headlights and replaced it with the LED... you still need to put more of a load on the lighting/handwarmer/charging circuit.
My 2 cents.
.
Did you change the fuse to a larger one??
I'm not a fan of running anything more than a cell phone charger off that DC connection... It is the same VRR that supplies the ECU/injectors ... If you take out the VRR for that... your sled stops working... if you take out a separate lighting VRR.. then all you have is no lights and no handwarmers... no big deal.
Also... if you've removed your headlights and replaced it with the LED... you still need to put more of a load on the lighting/handwarmer/charging circuit.
My 2 cents.
.
Last edited:
ya, i bought a couple of these. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/130650051091?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 I will cut off the female end so I just have a male pigtail that I can plug into the factory headlights. I will wire the rigid lights into the highbeam circut and wire the resistor into the low beam.
Remember, the factory headlights are ran off of AC power, not DC. So unless you install a rectifier also, you won't be able to run the LED light bar from it...
