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HEADS UP TO THOSE WITH 2013/14 THAT ARE NOT RUNNING HEADLIGHTS

Hi Bootz1981,
The led bar is 11.25 watts and amps draw is 0.82! Thanks for your help bud and that wiring diagram is kick ***! Im actually understanding some of this! :) i know that buying the plugs to fit the original female plugs is a much cleaner look, but can i just remove the female ends all together and splice from the original wires? Thanks again for your time!
 
thats exactly what i did

So I decided to also get an additional VR to separate out the headlights from the ECU. I bought the SPI replacement for like $36 on ebay. Anyways I bolted to the clutch guard with a couple 1/4" bolts. Here is a couple pics of it mounted. Better to be safe than sorry.


I mounted like this so it wouldn't rub on the oil tank.
 
I would take your led light bar and just quickly hook it up. Start the sled and see if it turns on. Takes like 2 minutes. You may not need a rectifier. I have tried about 3 different led lights including the ones that I will be mounting to the sled. All of them have turned on without a rectifier.
 
For the little bit of money and time its gonna take to install the rectifier and resistors, i might as well go with it and get that clear conscience that it was done right! Boots did an excellent job going through the voltage, amps and watt formulas! Im anxious to perform the operation and see the end results! :)
 
As a side note:

If you have a Boondocker Turbo with the fan for the intercooler... you will not need to run resistor as the fan pulls enough power from the lighting circuit....But I would still run the separate VR for an extra margin of reliability.






.

Just to make sure,that would be the Polaris #4010794.
 
Regarding LED's used with Delete.

First... DO NOT USE the DC ACC power plug by the headlights to power up the LED unless you can run it without blowing the 2 amp fuse for it. Personally, other than heated face shields or cell/gps charging..I really don't like to see that power port used for anything as this is connected to the ECU power supply and if something goes wrong there... you could have a dead sled in the backcountry and a voided warranty which could get pricey if you take out the ECU and VRR.

IF you use the DC ACC power plug for this, YES, you will still need to run the Load resistor as there will be no load on the lighting circuit if/when you turn off your handwarmers because this DC ACC plug runs off a completely different stator coil and regulator circuit. Handwarmers ALONE are not enough load to make it work.

IF you are using a Rectifier for this output from the Healdight circuit, if your LED uses 100W of power (unlikely) and ESPECIALLY if you plan to be able to turn it on or off ... I still Recommend the use of the resistor.









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I understand the chance for a problem on an 11/12 is less but resistor this still can't hurt, correct?

So I understand it correctly it will only shed excess power, not take any away from other added accessories (afr, Oil Pump, etc..)?

Sorry if this has been covered already!

Thanks
 
So after only a couple hundred miles on my 14' pro with the headlight delete and running the separate VR, my hand warmers have all but stopped working. Initially they were so hot even on low that I had to cycle the them on and off to keep my hands from burning. Then the next trip, I could barely feel them. I think the VR may be toast now. I order the mountain fit hood resistor and will order another VR and see if that helps my warmers out.
 
So after only a couple hundred miles on my 14' pro with the headlight delete and running the separate VR, my hand warmers have all but stopped working. Initially they were so hot even on low that I had to cycle the them on and off to keep my hands from burning. Then the next trip, I could barely feel them. I think the VR may be toast now. I order the mountain fit hood resistor and will order another VR and see if that helps my warmers out.

Sounds like your VR is toast and possibly your warmers to... Funny thing is I put a separate VR on my 13 last year with a headlight delete and it quickly fried that one to.
 
You ran it Without a resistor and the headlights removed??

So after only a couple hundred miles on my 14' pro with the headlight delete and running the separate VR, my hand warmers have all but stopped working. Initially they were so hot even on low that I had to cycle the them on and off to keep my hands from burning. Then the next trip, I could barely feel them. I think the VR may be toast now. I order the mountain fit hood resistor and will order another VR and see if that helps my warmers out.
 
Just curious if running a fuel controller such as a Boondocker Box would help with the voltage draw to not be concerned about this issue?
 
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