head lights go off and looses fuel pressure

[Rprecision]

So after calling Boondocker today, I found that my kit was installed wrong (Not by Boondocker). My turbo oil pump and secondary fuel pump was getting its power off the headlight circuit (red/black wire coming from CCU). It should be getting power off the circuit to your gauges (red/blue wire, same circuit as the one connected to fuse). Here is an attached schematic:

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B05A9arP11u1ZjliNTVkZTMtYjZhZi00ODRmLWJkNjUtNjE4M2IwNGQ0NWVj

At first the techs and I at Boondockers thought it was my CCU crapping out, so they had me test voltage coming out of the CCU. On my schematic you'll notice that you can 14.7V at three different places coming out of the CCU. One goes to headlights, one goes to gauges, and one I think is the tailight circuit, or maybe reverse circuit (purple/black wire). Obviously the headlight circuit isn't good to use because the lights drain a lot of power. The black/purple circuit scared me a little because if that is the circuit that powers my reverse, and since my reverse beeper is goes off when the beeper is plugged in, something funky is happening with that circuit. So I decided to splice my turbo oil pump and secondary fuel pump into the circuit Boondocker recommends (red/blue with fuse).

Anyway i cut the power to my turbo oil pump and secondary fuel pump from the headlight circuit, wired it into the gauge circuit and my fuel pressure jumped back up to 42psi from like the wavering 32-38psi it was before and my turbo oil pump started pumping strong. My gauges still work perfectly, headlights are strong, as far as I can tell on the stand she is going to work!
Note, I am premixing, so I don't have a stock oil pump hooked up, maybe saving a little power from the system...

MikeM1000, if I were you I'd unplug the main bundle coming out of the CCU but leave the yellow wires coming in intact. Use a voltage tester and test your voltage coming directly out of the CCU. If you aren't getting a strong 14.7 (mine jumps from like 14.5 to 15) coming out of the red/blue/fuse circuit, it might be time to get a new CCU, or possibly a stater. If you are getting 14.7, there has to be some short or something in your system. Because right now that circuit is running my normal speedo, Koso EGT gauge, turbo oil pump, and secondary fuel pump- seemingly without a problem, I think 14.7 is enough to run all that. You could also try running just your secondary fuel pump off of the red/blue circuit, and maybe just tap your turbo oil pump into the headlight circuit. My sled surprisingly ran fine for a about a year with both my secondary fuel pump and turbo oil pump running off of the headlight circuit, but now that I think about it my headlights were always a bit dim. A plus about running on the headlight circuit is that if you loose your headlights, you know your turbo oil pump isn't running as well... I am running the stock turbo oil pump that came with the Boondockers Race Gas in 2008

Hold on here.........

How in the name of all you hold glorious did you find a fix without first converting to a twisted kit ?

Something here just doesent make sense.

Also you said they talked to you at boondockers? I thought those guys didnt do that ?

I call bs on this whole post

 

[Gobig510]

Haha

Haha, I love how every thread gets turned into a which kit is better thread. Basically boils down to Boondocker sucks, Twisted is the best, blah blah blah. I was just trying to share what worked for me on my "POS" Boondockers kit so that other people with "POS" kits like mine could get them working... Both of my turbos I bought used, both with race gas Boondocker kits installed. If I were to buy a new kit I don't know what I would have chosen, they all seem to have their problems and they all seem to run like raped apes when they work properly.

 

[MikeM1000]

thats funny cause my install directions say to tap the red/black but talkin with boondocker today im pretty sure they said red/blue...so maybe i put a quick connector to both wires or just run airframe hood without lights elimnating power draw

 

[WyoBoy1000]

If you can figure it out and its that easy then fix it, I just get sick of the fix it over and over, twisted just eliminated the problem areas, like not running more power through the system then what was intended. Simple and functional.

They all have problems, not really. Why do you think BD has the updates/fixes, I've seen enough to not waste my time, I've also seen some run great. Do what you want, its just my opinion.

 

[MikeM1000]

for sure will agree the Twisted system is better and i Will be converting over but dont have 2500 to do it all at once.. im getting there fuel pump and wiring but keep my electric oil pump till i can afford the turbo stand/oil tank and charge tubes, def to much load on electrical system currently

 

[WyoBoy1000]

why I said if you can afford it, lol, I know how it is.

 

[Gobig510]

Twisted

If you can figure it out and its that easy then fix it, I just get sick of the fix it over and over, twisted just eliminated the problem areas, like not running more power through the system then what was intended. Simple and functional.

They all have problems, not really. Why do you think BD has the updates/fixes, I've seen enough to not waste my time, I've also seen some run great. Do what you want, its just my opinion.

If they all don't have their problems then why is bcguy having a problem with his twisted kit, posted above? BD has updates/fixes because it is an evolution of the sport. Just like when one day they finally create a standalone ECU, doesn't mean that all the companies now making turbo kits are ****, it is just that something better came evolved, BD figured out how to make their kits a little bit better...
Look I respect you, you give a lot a great advice and know your stuff, as well as many of the other people on here supporting Twisted. I just get tired of us Boondocker guys trying to figure out how we can fix stuff and all these threads turn into, "well the problem is you are using Boondocker stuff, the solution is you need to convert to Twisted..." Well that's great, some of my problems might go away, but it is a SNOWMOBILE, they all are going to have problems, stock or turbo and I don't have thousands of dollars to switch to a different kit when the fact is they are all pretty darn similar. Garrett turbo- check, an input system that adds fuel to the ECU-check, a charge tube-check, exhaust-check, BOV-check, fuel pressure gauge-check, better fuel pump-check, clutching set-up-check. What you think are huge differences between a Twisted kit and Boondockers kit, I think are small. At the end of the day it is 100hp added to your sled that you can go have fun in the mountains with. With both of my Boondocker sleds my problems so far would have happened to any sled except for this electrical problem- blown DD, power valve servo motor crapped out, worn track drivers... Lets just let the issue rest, there are Chevy guys and there are Ford guys, Twisted guys and Boondocker guys. When we have a problem lets just figure it out instead of kit bashing.

 

[MikeM1000]

totally agree, the best system will be the best parts of all the kits morphodited into a combo "Farm Sled"... opinions are just that.i have owned Fords Chevys and Dodges, im 6'3 so i like the room of the superduty but my dodge diesel made way more power and torque than my ford will dream about and the chev rode the best, all have perks and falts.

just lookin for advice and fixing what i got, bought it used and has some issues to correct..

after talking to the guy who designed Twisted found out he started on BD kits then refined where he thought was best and its def simpler but it comes with sacrifices like Having to premix, BD desinged theres so any clown could ride a turbo anywere ..

its just a preferance, got a BD kit and need to change stuff for my preferance and mine will be a "Farm Sled" for sure when its done

Thanks for all the imput it has really helped in chasing these dang electrical gremlins.

 

[MikeM1000]

also after the fuse by CCU where does it go. gauge? and/or where else does it go

 

[Gobig510]

Wire after Fuse

My red/blue wire after my fuse seems to only go to my gauges (speedo and my egt gauge) and taillights. I didn't follow it entirely because it is so darn hard to follow those wires everywhere, but when I cut it that's what I lost, haha. That is probably a bad way to fix things, but anything coming off your CCU shouldn't be detrimental if you cut it and see what happens... Then just splice it back together. The only things you can really loose are headlights, reverse, reverse beeper, taillights, gauges, I think. I am not sure what the power-valve servo motor is connected to, but i guess that is probably hooked somewhere to the DC circuit... I wish we could find a complete schematic of where everything goes...

 

[Rprecision]

If you can figure it out and its that easy then fix it, I just get sick of the fix it over and over, twisted just eliminated the problem areas, like not running more power through the system then what was intended. Simple and functional.

They all have problems, not really. Why do you think BD has the updates/fixes, I've seen enough to not waste my time, I've also seen some run great. Do what you want, its just my opinion.

And opinion there is no shortage of.

What you fail to admit, there are just as many problems with kits as there are with the stock host sled. Many problems come up boosted that were never obvious or known stock.

But if you ran around saying that you couldent be the reliable cheerleader you are.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

And opinion there is no shortage of.

What you fail to admit, there are just as many problems with kits as there are with the stock host sled. Many problems come up boosted that were never obvious or known stock.

But if you ran around saying that you couldent be the reliable cheerleader you are.

Are you going to argue the early bd kits did not have to much of a pull on the electrical system, they have even admitted that.

Call it what you want, I stated my opinion and it will fix the problem, not to say there are not other fixes. Just my opinion,
If your going to come on here and bash the least you can do is provide some useful information like some of the other guys did,
and they did it very well.

 

[Tonysnoo]

My red/blue wire after my fuse seems to only go to my gauges (speedo and my egt gauge) and taillights. I didn't follow it entirely because it is so darn hard to follow those wires everywhere, but when I cut it that's what I lost, haha. That is probably a bad way to fix things, but anything coming off your CCU shouldn't be detrimental if you cut it and see what happens... Then just splice it back together. The only things you can really loose are headlights, reverse, reverse beeper, taillights, gauges, I think. I am not sure what the power-valve servo motor is connected to, but i guess that is probably hooked somewhere to the DC circuit... I wish we could find a complete schematic of where everything goes...

There are a lot of repair manuals on CD on Ebay, but make sure to ask if they include the schematics, some don't. The complete schematic is comprised of three pages. Handlebars, Hood, and Main. You gotta kinda chase from one page to another to follow the circuits.

The red/blue should also run the PV servo(through the ECU).

I have been studying the schematic and I'm not sure how the CCU can take power away from headlights(red/black) in reverse and still have power for the beeper(red/black). I'm curious and will be reading the manuals real hard tonight, to see where I got that information/impression? If it does then my schematic has a reverse switch labeled incorrectly.

PS: glad to see someone get out a volt meter and actually test stuff!

 

[MikeM1000]

so im no electrical engineer but what if for the old BD kit u just spliced off both wires (red/black) (red/blue)? wouldnt that disperse the load or could it double the voltage?

 

[bcguy]

I am pretty certain my problems with my sled have nothing to do with my twisted setup but my ccu as a couple times it would cut out and go into reverse,this is an 08 sled with dakota reverse wiring and 09 flash that i did myself and i belive that is where my problem lies,every burn down i ve had with exception of the origonal install wich was not done correctly is due to myself not setting numbers properly after turning them down to head down the trail to save fuel,Ive ridden with a few different types of turbos,boondocker included and they rock,im a firm believer that most problems with these turbo kits are install issues and not the kit itself,to finish this is a 1200 rg twisted turbo and the only problem i see that i would contribute to the kit is I cant keep belts on it and my arms get really fn sore

 

[Gobig510]

Splicing Both Together

so im no electrical engineer but what if for the old BD kit u just spliced off both wires (red/black) (red/blue)? wouldnt that disperse the load or could it double the voltage?

Thinking back to my college Physics 2 days, splicing both together won't give you double the voltage, you will still have 14.7 volts to work with, but you will have twice the current, or twice as many amps to work with... So basically you would be taking some current away from your headlights to feed your pumps. If you spliced into both red/black and red/blue before either of them hit the gauges or headlights, connected those splicing wires into one that then branched into two wires that fed your pumps in parallel to a ground; your gauges, headlights, and pumps would each be running in parallel, meaning they would all receive 14.7 volts, but the amps would be divided out among them. There actually isn't much point in doing it that way though because it is exactly the same as just running each pump off of each circuit separately.

That brings up a good point though, are your pumps running in series or parallel? Meaning, after you spliced into the red/blue or red/black, does one wire travel to your first pump, out of the first pump into the second pump, then out to the ground? That would mean it was wired in series and no bueno. After splicing into the red/blue it needs to branch and feed both pumps simultaneously, then the black ground wires coming out of each pump can be spliced together or left separate and grounded... See if they are wired in series the first pump is going to take away your voltage difference, leaving you with no voltage to power the second pump. If they are wired in parallel both will have the same 14.7V drop, but each will just receive half the current each, which should still be enough to run them...

 

[MikeM1000]

it splices into the red/black then a single wire runs to a connector then branches to both pumps same with ground...

im putting a quick butt connector on each wire (red/black) (red/blue w/fuse) to A. have a back up power source or B. run a single pump off both???

the lights cut out once that i know of could question i have is should i disconnect head lights and run current red/black circuit or swap over to red/blue and tax that circuit with gauge running too.

anyone know how much power the BD oil pump draws on its own

 

[Tonysnoo]

I have been studying the schematic and I'm not sure how the CCU can take power away from headlights(red/black) in reverse and still have power for the beeper(red/black). I'm curious and will be reading the manuals real hard tonight, to see where I got that information/impression? If it does then my schematic has a reverse switch labeled incorrectly.

Well, just got done reading the manual. The CCU does disconnect the red/black during shifting(maybe 1 sec?). I mistook that for during reverse...my bad.

Another little factoid that came up. Both DC circuits on the CCU are internally protected against overload. Either will shut down until the overload or short is removed from the circuit..........makes ya wanna look for a bare wire or bad pump???

Your memory is correct, connecting both won't make your voltage double. It might be an interesting experiment to try. It should spread the load out over both circuits evenly (if they are regulated to the same voltage)

 

[WyoBoy1000]

I've always wondered if hooking a small rechargeable battery pack (12v) to the system would work and ease the load when needed.

 

[MikeM1000]

so in theory if i switched to gauge circuit instead of headlight circuit and gauge goes out that would indicate i have a short in my pumps wiring somewhere or a bad pump