i was out today and lost fuel pressure and realized my head lights were off but everything else worked, had to crank regulator and throw tons of fuel at turbo hi setting on boondocker to get it out but still ran hot then my lights came back on and flooded out and fuel pressure was back up took the fuel back out and she ran awesome again.. so looking for thoughts and where is the best power source for fuel and turbo oil pump is that wont be affected by weird stuff like that?
head lights go off and looses fuel pressure
- Thread starter MikeM1000
- Start date
What kit is this/ version. This is why I hate BD, theres about 8 different kits/updates because of issues.
its a 07-08 rg kit with updated oil tank... but i bought it used and dont know how its wired.. so was gonna go through and redo it if theres a better constant power that wont go out it headlight or gauges or whatever goes out so that way if engine runs pumps still run
Call twisted and convert it over, you will never look back I guaranty it.
There so many updates from that kit you would be shooting in the dark trying to make it run half as good as any of the others.
what would be changed what would i have to buy? we talkin new charger and plumbing or just fuel and oil pump w/wiring.. cause it runs great, except when my lights went out then things got screwy after they came on reset the fuel where i had it and back to AWESOME again running round 9.5# boost...
Well you can keep riding and risk it leaving you or burning down, mainly fuel and wiring would be the changes.
If your not willing to spend to make it right I highly recommend getting a hold of MM (call him) and when he helps, pay him for his time.
If your not willing to spend to make it right I highly recommend getting a hold of MM (call him) and when he helps, pay him for his time.
ya just on Twisted website,, A. its way better organized than Boondocker is... and i think im goin to get the fuel pump wire harness and re wire my pumps to that, and i like the fact it has power outputs for gauges, and pickin up a AFR Gauge currently running EGTs, whats the acceptable range for ur air/fuel
depends on the setup, 12-12.5 should be safe. With the 2871 turbo I was 12.2-12.8 and sometime 13.1 but not recommended.
M
mynewuseddoo
Well-known member
O2 sensor should be mounted after the turbo, on the muffler, closer to the turbo exhaust outlet, where the muffler mounts to the turbo, not the end of the muffler.
i figured it had to go before turbo... but back to original topic i was looking over boondocker install instructions i got with sled and they are tapping into the CCU for power for pumps. now with the headlight cutting out and fuel pressure goin screwy then coming back after they come back on does that indicate power issues from stator or just from CCU... looking at getting Twisted Turbos fuel/oil pump power supply harness, cause if the main fuel pump lost power wouldnt the sled die???
I doubt that this problem has any thing to do with whos kit is on the sled. On that year sled the ccu has two dc circuits. The one the headlight and your fuel pump seems to be on and another that is used for power valves, etc. i believe the ccu takes away the headlight power everytime it needs to power up the reverse shifter.
I wonder if the ccu is acting up? The other posibility is a loose connection on the dc circuit that feeds your headlights and pump. You might start looking at connections and putting a little dielectric compound on them. Also if you are finding you problem happens right around the time you used reverse( or maybe hit the reverse switch), that could just be the ccu trying to do its job, but not resetting correctly????
Good luck
I wonder if the ccu is acting up? The other posibility is a loose connection on the dc circuit that feeds your headlights and pump. You might start looking at connections and putting a little dielectric compound on them. Also if you are finding you problem happens right around the time you used reverse( or maybe hit the reverse switch), that could just be the ccu trying to do its job, but not resetting correctly????
Good luck
Pics of 02,
Some claim to get the old bd kits working, I have never seen a flawless BD kit until 2011, and thats not very old, I've seen twisted, ovs, cutler kits run for years without problems, Just my opinion though.
Some claim to get the old bd kits working, I have never seen a flawless BD kit until 2011, and thats not very old, I've seen twisted, ovs, cutler kits run for years without problems, Just my opinion though.
G
Gobig510
Well-known member
I have the same problems!
MikeM1000, I am glad you have the same problems, I just starting having them! I have the same kit, Boondockers Race Gas 2008, but mine is on a M8. My sled used to run amazing too, I ran 13 pounds of boost and it would run flawless. I then started running into a bunch of problems, erratic fuel pressure, headlights would sometime go off, my reverse beeper would go off and stay on for no apparent reason, blew a fuse to my CCU, and my turbo oil pump stopped pumping... I think I traced it all back to how my auxiliary fuel pump and turbo oil pump was wired in! The Boondocker instructions has you splice it into the Red/black wire coming out of the CCU which is how mine was spliced in. I was only getting like a few milivolts at my auxiliary fuel pump wired in that way. I don't know why it used to work that way, maybe my CCU is crapping out. Anyway I was going to try and wire in my fuel pump and turbo oil pump somewhere else. Where should I wire them in? What wires?
MikeM1000 let me know if you find a solution... Do you know how the Twisted kits are wired?
MikeM1000, I am glad you have the same problems, I just starting having them! I have the same kit, Boondockers Race Gas 2008, but mine is on a M8. My sled used to run amazing too, I ran 13 pounds of boost and it would run flawless. I then started running into a bunch of problems, erratic fuel pressure, headlights would sometime go off, my reverse beeper would go off and stay on for no apparent reason, blew a fuse to my CCU, and my turbo oil pump stopped pumping... I think I traced it all back to how my auxiliary fuel pump and turbo oil pump was wired in! The Boondocker instructions has you splice it into the Red/black wire coming out of the CCU which is how mine was spliced in. I was only getting like a few milivolts at my auxiliary fuel pump wired in that way. I don't know why it used to work that way, maybe my CCU is crapping out. Anyway I was going to try and wire in my fuel pump and turbo oil pump somewhere else. Where should I wire them in? What wires?
MikeM1000 let me know if you find a solution... Do you know how the Twisted kits are wired?
ya i have a BDX light drive so no reverse, i was looking into getting a twisted wire harness, it uses stock fuel pump power with what looks like a power booster with plugs for aux fuel pump and oil pump with power for gauges, its $50 plus shipping, i figure if thats the power source in the event it lost power there would be no fuel and no running without oil pressure.. but if someone knows a better power source thats failsafe lert me know...
Hey mike, you dont have a reverse gear case, but the ccu still has the two circuits and if it were to get a reverse signal some how or think it was getting a reverse signal, it would shut down the dc to your lights etc.
go big is talking about reverse beeper going off etc. and having similar problems. Sounds like he is getting some sort of reverse signal too. The ccu is a pretty reliable device, but you have to make sure it doesnt have a reverse signal wire still attached if you remove the mechanical reverse.
The devise you are talking about getting generally doesnt work on the 07/08 because of the dc circuit. Call and talk to them before ordering it.im sure there is a work around.
B
bcguy
Member
I have a twisted 1200 rg and am having the same problem,apon start up it will run good for a while then I will loose partial power to the fuel pump[it will go down to 20 pounds]and my air fuel will reset it self,then I will shut of and will start up with power again,I thought it was my stator acting up and time for a new one but maby just ccu?keep the suggestions coming,I dont think the kits are to blame for this problem
Wouldn't hurt to make sure all connections are dry and secured correctly.
bcguy, have you tried calling twisted, I would
bcguy, have you tried calling twisted, I would
talked to Twisted he said most likely its to much load on stator with the boondocker wiring at least with older stuff, the secondary pump i have pull 6 amps and theres only 6 amps in the system plus the draw of electric oil pump so it just overloads it his kit has a single in tank pump at max power pulls 6 amps but generally runs at 4 or less amps, with power leads for gauges wich could be used for electric oil pump on BD kit.. thats why he runs the factory oil pump for turbo oil and premixs fuel... im goin to convert to his set up i think.. for now im taking my hood off and runnin mesh with no lights gor gauges and see if that lightins load on system,
G
Gobig510
Well-known member
I think I just fixed mine
So after calling Boondocker today, I found that my kit was installed wrong (Not by Boondocker). My turbo oil pump and secondary fuel pump was getting its power off the headlight circuit (red/black wire coming from CCU). It should be getting power off the circuit to your gauges (red/blue wire, same circuit as the one connected to fuse). Here is an attached schematic:
https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B05A9arP11u1ZjliNTVkZTMtYjZhZi00ODRmLWJkNjUtNjE4M2IwNGQ0NWVj
At first the techs and I at Boondockers thought it was my CCU crapping out, so they had me test voltage coming out of the CCU. On my schematic you'll notice that you can 14.7V at three different places coming out of the CCU. One goes to headlights, one goes to gauges, and one I think is the tailight circuit, or maybe reverse circuit (purple/black wire). Obviously the headlight circuit isn't good to use because the lights drain a lot of power. The black/purple circuit scared me a little because if that is the circuit that powers my reverse, and since my reverse beeper is goes off when the beeper is plugged in, something funky is happening with that circuit. So I decided to splice my turbo oil pump and secondary fuel pump into the circuit Boondocker recommends (red/blue with fuse).
Anyway i cut the power to my turbo oil pump and secondary fuel pump from the headlight circuit, wired it into the gauge circuit and my fuel pressure jumped back up to 42psi from like the wavering 32-38psi it was before and my turbo oil pump started pumping strong. My gauges still work perfectly, headlights are strong, as far as I can tell on the stand she is going to work!
Note, I am premixing, so I don't have a stock oil pump hooked up, maybe saving a little power from the system...
MikeM1000, if I were you I'd unplug the main bundle coming out of the CCU but leave the yellow wires coming in intact. Use a voltage tester and test your voltage coming directly out of the CCU. If you aren't getting a strong 14.7 (mine jumps from like 14.5 to 15) coming out of the red/blue/fuse circuit, it might be time to get a new CCU, or possibly a stater. If you are getting 14.7, there has to be some short or something in your system. Because right now that circuit is running my normal speedo, Koso EGT gauge, turbo oil pump, and secondary fuel pump- seemingly without a problem, I think 14.7 is enough to run all that. You could also try running just your secondary fuel pump off of the red/blue circuit, and maybe just tap your turbo oil pump into the headlight circuit. My sled surprisingly ran fine for a about a year with both my secondary fuel pump and turbo oil pump running off of the headlight circuit, but now that I think about it my headlights were always a bit dim. A plus about running on the headlight circuit is that if you loose your headlights, you know your turbo oil pump isn't running as well... I am running the stock turbo oil pump that came with the Boondockers Race Gas in 2008
So after calling Boondocker today, I found that my kit was installed wrong (Not by Boondocker). My turbo oil pump and secondary fuel pump was getting its power off the headlight circuit (red/black wire coming from CCU). It should be getting power off the circuit to your gauges (red/blue wire, same circuit as the one connected to fuse). Here is an attached schematic:
https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B05A9arP11u1ZjliNTVkZTMtYjZhZi00ODRmLWJkNjUtNjE4M2IwNGQ0NWVj
At first the techs and I at Boondockers thought it was my CCU crapping out, so they had me test voltage coming out of the CCU. On my schematic you'll notice that you can 14.7V at three different places coming out of the CCU. One goes to headlights, one goes to gauges, and one I think is the tailight circuit, or maybe reverse circuit (purple/black wire). Obviously the headlight circuit isn't good to use because the lights drain a lot of power. The black/purple circuit scared me a little because if that is the circuit that powers my reverse, and since my reverse beeper is goes off when the beeper is plugged in, something funky is happening with that circuit. So I decided to splice my turbo oil pump and secondary fuel pump into the circuit Boondocker recommends (red/blue with fuse).
Anyway i cut the power to my turbo oil pump and secondary fuel pump from the headlight circuit, wired it into the gauge circuit and my fuel pressure jumped back up to 42psi from like the wavering 32-38psi it was before and my turbo oil pump started pumping strong. My gauges still work perfectly, headlights are strong, as far as I can tell on the stand she is going to work!
Note, I am premixing, so I don't have a stock oil pump hooked up, maybe saving a little power from the system...
MikeM1000, if I were you I'd unplug the main bundle coming out of the CCU but leave the yellow wires coming in intact. Use a voltage tester and test your voltage coming directly out of the CCU. If you aren't getting a strong 14.7 (mine jumps from like 14.5 to 15) coming out of the red/blue/fuse circuit, it might be time to get a new CCU, or possibly a stater. If you are getting 14.7, there has to be some short or something in your system. Because right now that circuit is running my normal speedo, Koso EGT gauge, turbo oil pump, and secondary fuel pump- seemingly without a problem, I think 14.7 is enough to run all that. You could also try running just your secondary fuel pump off of the red/blue circuit, and maybe just tap your turbo oil pump into the headlight circuit. My sled surprisingly ran fine for a about a year with both my secondary fuel pump and turbo oil pump running off of the headlight circuit, but now that I think about it my headlights were always a bit dim. A plus about running on the headlight circuit is that if you loose your headlights, you know your turbo oil pump isn't running as well... I am running the stock turbo oil pump that came with the Boondockers Race Gas in 2008
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