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55 years ago I milled my first head. Can it be done on these heads? How much is an altitude head?
55 years ago I milled my first head. Can it be done on these heads? How much is an altitude head?
Ok, now that most of the warranty work has been denied I will let you all in on what caused this thread.
I purchased a 2011 Pro 800 via snowcheck. Ran good but never really happy since my father also had a 2011 Pro 800. Gotta be better than who you ride with. So I added an SLP single and V-Force III Reeds at around 800 miles and it sounded better but neck in neck with stock Pro. At 1100 miles (summer) I purchased an SLP head to go up to Stage III. Once again....neck and neck with stock sled first time out is in upper 30's and around Dec 9th. Then I go up to my time share for a week on December 30th. Sled fouls at least one set of plugs each day and runs horrible. Almost every day is around 20 degrees or colder. One of these days, we had to pull the sled out of the trailer by hand even with fresh plugs. Sled had been acting up when cruising or running at an rpm that wasn't accellerating nor was their a load on the motor. If you were standing...it would feel like you had the throttle open and somebody hit the kill switch. Determined to be injectors. Easy fix. Last day there I got to ride the sled but it ran better but not like it should have. Drop sled off at dealer when I get into town. Dealer goes through and rechecks tps and Power Comander and did some little tweaks. Think all is fine. Get down to West Yellowstone and it takes 3 sets of plugs to get from hotel to West Yellowstone Polaris. Start hearing rumours about what it could be. Pay to have reeds inspected. They are horribly chipped up and not sealing. Install stock reeds back in sled and installed a new pipe temp sensor. Sled is kept inside until I pick it up on last day we're there. It runs without fouling plugs right away but does foul one set when I get stuck. Bring sled back to my dealer. Go with rumour and have top end taken off. Rings are chipped/flaking. Seems to only be happening where the intake ports are. Discuss this all with dealer and with others. If sled was warm or kept inside at a warmer tempurature the rings weren't bad enough to fail everytime. Mainly they only failed or showed failure when cold. Some of us feel that this was probably there for a long time since I never did see any advancement of performance with any of the go fast parts I added. However, others think it was the go fast parts.
Dealer told me that they didn't disagree that the rings were bad and possibly bad on any stock sled. Just that the head/pipe/pc5 combonation magnified it and if I had kept it stock I may have never noticed it. 800Poodragon uses same dealer and was told to remove his aftermarket head due to what we saw on my sled. So he started this thread to see if anybody else had issues.
Also, some of you may remember the thread about the SLP Stage III nightmare that had the title changed. Well that guy finally tore apart his motor and guess what? Rings were even worse than mine and piston even had some damage....right where the intake charge comes in the motor. I want to stress that the two instances that I speak of were on sleds with over 1000 miles on them.
I am not saying one way or another who is at fault but a spade is a spade and if somebody can tell me how rings and/or pistons get damaged in only the area that the intake charge comes into the motor and can blame it on the PC5, pipe, or head...I will listen to you. I am only presenting the facts and you, snowest users, can make your deduction from the facts.
I really hope that I am one of only two peoples to have this issue surface. I am now done and I am not going to speak of it again on the forum.
The ring issues are the result of a couple of design issues with the piston and the lack of oil in the injectors..
Another issue that has been addressed with our drop in piston kit
I have the 13.6 head and having trouble with det in mid rpm , running 91 octane at 8000 to 12000. Its very irritating.
About 400 miles before the Pa 12.5 went on it. About 400 miles since. Runs better and more consitant with the pa head. Zero issues other than making sure to clutch it right. aksnowrider is right, It takes heel heavy weights and nore than you think to get it to not det in the mid. Once you getting your clutching set it's pull rope and go. Just make sure to get the right head for your elevation. Don't try to cheat and run higher compression than your fuel or altitude. These motors are close to end as it is with det.
So what are you running for weights.I have the same 12.5.Was going to put 10-64's on with the new head up from the 10-62's at stock
I was ust trying to say that my sled with just the 3 inch track and the pa 13.1 head is comparable to a turbo running 6-8 pounds of boost
actually 2mileshigh and bajah2x you absolutely DO NOT have to run any higher octane than 91 on a Power Addiction 13.6 head with stock exhaust on a PRO at those altitudes. If you are having laying down issues at midrange it's from clutching not the head v octane burn. The setup must be loaded and correct clutching is really important. If you are running 93 octane at those altitudes you are leaving tremendous performance on the table. The key to excellent performance is running the exact correct octane to your environment. You've slowed down your burn rate so much that you have essentially reversed the benefit of the higher compression head. At high RPM (7400-8000) on 94 octane at your altitude you have knocked off about 20% of your available power. Run 91 and clutch your sleds correctly...it will be an entirely new beast. I have actually ran 87 oct at your altitudes and it's another notch quicker to duration. The sleds will feel just like they do at 6000ft with 91 and a 13.6 head. (but this in not he manufactures recommendation so that is an at your own risk proposition...BUT IT DID)
(AND PUT EXTRA OIL IN to protect your rings...see how we tie the threads together to keep the internet forum nazi's at bay)