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assault11
Well-known member
I'm sure you could. It just won't run as good. And you'll have to run lower compression with ethanol fuel
Has anybody had problems after installing high compression head?
- Thread starter 800poodragon
- Start date
I'm sure you could. It just won't run as good. And you'll have to run lower compression with ethanol fuel
Mine flat out RIPS..all day every day and it doesn't matter what kind of snow we ride. IT'S A TOTAL STANDOUT OVER STOCK! Also note I now have about fifteen of MY setups running around out across the world. Alt's from 4000 to 12,000 and REPORTS ARE SHINING. At altitude the head is a PROVEN WINNER...but you MUST clutch and gain traction or you don't get the results and some can experience frustration.
TRACTION (more consistent resistance = higher performance in this clutch app)
LOAD (if you free spool your transmission it goes bad)
RPM (8000 is KEY +- 50 and you are dialed)
OCTANE TO ALTITUDE (correct oct to your alt v the head you have is KEY)
.....all critical components to HIGH PERFORMANCE on the PRO
Costs $650 to make your sled run GREAT. I have yet to encounter a sled with so few modifications, and with so little money spent, that can even SNIFF MY SLED IN ANY TERRAIN. Got a hot rod runner? Let's compare...YOU'LL GO HOME FRUSTRATED!
TRACTION (more consistent resistance = higher performance in this clutch app)
LOAD (if you free spool your transmission it goes bad)
RPM (8000 is KEY +- 50 and you are dialed)
OCTANE TO ALTITUDE (correct oct to your alt v the head you have is KEY)
.....all critical components to HIGH PERFORMANCE on the PRO
Costs $650 to make your sled run GREAT. I have yet to encounter a sled with so few modifications, and with so little money spent, that can even SNIFF MY SLED IN ANY TERRAIN. Got a hot rod runner? Let's compare...YOU'LL GO HOME FRUSTRATED!
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treedocker
Well-known member
i am running rktechs drop in kit with his head and pistons and got a little over 300 miles on it now running around 8300 to 8400 with 63 gram polaris weights at 6k to 10k feet on straight 91 with the non ethanol plug installed and the thing is ripping all day long no det codes or anything.
So for $650 we can buy the head and all related clutching from you that will make them rip like yours?
also note before you guys keep chasing your tails....($$$$ time energy and less than positive results)
the entire clutch kit is critical...miner helix angle changes and springs are making significant differences in performance and heat
just buying weights doesn't do squat...IT"S A COMBO PACKAGE OF EVERYTHING (I cannot stress that enough...10 to 20 lbs secondary spring differences are equaling negative results as are the differences in extremely minor helix angles! No traction and free spool some clutch kits and you get codes and laydowns. Dialed in they are awesome and you can run at wildly varying altitudes and get great results with a simple weight plus or minus. Most guys don't travel that much and just need a dial in for their home stomping grounds and that is DONE. Use ultrarider's setup at sea level to 3000 because he has it nailed. Higher than that and you are in my world and a totally different setup. 4000 to 12000 DONE go rip it up.
the entire clutch kit is critical...miner helix angle changes and springs are making significant differences in performance and heat
just buying weights doesn't do squat...IT"S A COMBO PACKAGE OF EVERYTHING (I cannot stress that enough...10 to 20 lbs secondary spring differences are equaling negative results as are the differences in extremely minor helix angles! No traction and free spool some clutch kits and you get codes and laydowns. Dialed in they are awesome and you can run at wildly varying altitudes and get great results with a simple weight plus or minus. Most guys don't travel that much and just need a dial in for their home stomping grounds and that is DONE. Use ultrarider's setup at sea level to 3000 because he has it nailed. Higher than that and you are in my world and a totally different setup. 4000 to 12000 DONE go rip it up.
NO I DON"T NORMALLY SELL THIS STUFF. You buy it from the dealer or YOUR dealer who is setup with Power Addiction.
You buy the head from BRAD $340
You buy the clutch kit from Carl's $260-$275
You trim your track yourself.....free
YOU THANK ME LATER WITH BEER AND NICE THOUGHTS
or you bring your who ever's aftermarket parts hot rod and we have at it for MONEY...that will be reward enough for ME
You buy the head from BRAD $340
You buy the clutch kit from Carl's $260-$275
You trim your track yourself.....free
YOU THANK ME LATER WITH BEER AND NICE THOUGHTS
or you bring your who ever's aftermarket parts hot rod and we have at it for MONEY...that will be reward enough for ME
What was trying to be finessed out in this post was really, "Has anybody had any problems with fouling plugs and/or driveability issues after putting on an aftermarket head?" Not so much about clutching.
Some issues have come to light in the last month or so with some issues that are being amplified by a higher than stock compression head. Usually the higher mileage sleds in excess of 1000 miles (like that is high mileage) are the ones with issues. Two sleds with exact same issues and more 1000 miles on them. One's been tore down and problem found, the second one is going to be tore down this week. If it's the exact same cause, I will post the results. If not, then I will keep my mouth shut since their isn't a pattern forming.
So nobody gets confused here, the problem has nothing to do with the head.
Some issues have come to light in the last month or so with some issues that are being amplified by a higher than stock compression head. Usually the higher mileage sleds in excess of 1000 miles (like that is high mileage) are the ones with issues. Two sleds with exact same issues and more 1000 miles on them. One's been tore down and problem found, the second one is going to be tore down this week. If it's the exact same cause, I will post the results. If not, then I will keep my mouth shut since their isn't a pattern forming.
So nobody gets confused here, the problem has nothing to do with the head.
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assault11
Well-known member
I've got 2600 on mine and it's been good. Just looked at the pistons and cylinders and they looked very good. No signs of scuffing. And I've ridden the piss out of it
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theultrarider
Well-known member
Sorry, Didn't mean to turn this thread towards clutching.
Seems many are having det light issues and stumbles in the mid range when installing JUST the head. The cure for that in most cases is to just plain load the motor harder with the clutching. Just trying help out there.
Seems many are having det light issues and stumbles in the mid range when installing JUST the head. The cure for that in most cases is to just plain load the motor harder with the clutching. Just trying help out there.
Hey, not big deal. I spoke wih Poodragon on the phone so I know exactly what he was getting at. Clutching is a good topic, just not what he was trying to get information on. I just tried to clarify. Hope I didn't step on your toes.
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So out of all the people running higher compression heads how many are mixing any oil in with the gas in addition to the oil injection?
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theultrarider
Well-known member
Mixing oil in the fuel does no good in these motors. Ther eare other threads on here where this is dicussed in great detail. In a nutshell, the fuel is injected into the the intake port on the piston upstroke. In the past on a common 2stroke motor the fuel is sucked in on the downstroke. What this means is that the fuel goes in above the piston, gets burned, then out the exhaust. It DOES NOT go through the bottom of the motor as was the case in the 2stroke motors of old. Add all the oil you want in your fuel, but none of it will get to your crank, rod bearings, or piston skirts.
Turn your oiler up instead. That is the only way to incrase the amount of oil the bottomend of your engine will get.
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RKT
Well-known member
With all due respect.. this is simply not the case..
The fuel/air/oil does and must enter the case area.. Where they supply/inject the fuel is irrelevant, the fuel and oil "mixes" around the case and is ALL supplied from the case area.. It is no different than any other 2 stroke sno mo engine..ALSO adding oil to the gas WILL increase oil everywhere and IMO, do some good.
Kelsey
i put a little redline in my fuel each tank...always have and it doesn't seem to hurt 1400 miles on the setup
Also why not just post the theory or possibility of an issue rather than fear mongering? It's certainly not difficult to word in such a way that people would understand you are seeking info instead of accusations! If that isn't the case how about SILENCE until you have viable information rather than starting the INTERNET FEAR BUG.
Also why not just post the theory or possibility of an issue rather than fear mongering? It's certainly not difficult to word in such a way that people would understand you are seeking info instead of accusations! If that isn't the case how about SILENCE until you have viable information rather than starting the INTERNET FEAR BUG.
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theultrarider
Well-known member
So did one of my riding buds. And at about 1700 miles he still lost a lower pto rod bearing.
As to the fuel not going through the bottom of the engine.
Yes, of course what goes through the intake and throttle bodies goes through the bottom of the cases like it always has. It has to on a 2 stroke. What has changed it where the fuel injectors are placed. They are now located in the transfer ports when the air that have gone into the motor has ALREADY gone through the bottom of the cases and now is headed above the piston for ignition. It will then be exhausted without ever traveling through the bottom of the case.
I'm done and will shut up. I'll just go back to riding the damn things
Well overall I was trying to find out how many people are pre mixing oil, weather it is stock and/or once a higher compression head is installed. It would seem that with the way the injectors are set up they are spraying straight gas onto the piston/ring in a specific location. Does this have a tendency to wash off any lubrication in this area? I do not know for sure but it would seem so. If you are premixing it could very well give you better lubrication in this area. I have seen one set of rings on a sled having some running problems that had the finish on the rings flaking badly only in this area which would cause compression loss and pushing fuel out as well. I have heard of a couple others having this same problem as well, they check the cylinders and piston skirts/tops and everything looks good, no signs of anything, but if you look closely at the rings in this area where the fuel is sprayed they are flaking....could be bad rings as well I do not know. I have heard that the higher compression heads can possibly magnify the problem as well because once the issue starts it causes it to speed up or get worse, but again I do not know for sure I am only guessing. Would more oil help fix it? Would different rings fix it? Have been asking questions to see if there is any sort of pattern to this hypothesis not start an "internet fear bug", information has not been conclusive. Just looking at possibilities. Several people say things all look good but could something as small as this cause a running problem? Lets hear your thoughts on this...
I am done as well...back to riding.
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srosscojw
Active member
I am having DET issues with my sled, PAR 13.1 head and slp stage 2. Please explain how it is possible to hit the REV limiter in the mid range? I am clutched appropriatly for my set up and elevation. max RPM at elevation 8100.
I am starting to think that my issues are injector, TPS, or electrical gremlins. I have changed knock sensor, tested and re set tps within spec, blended 20% c 12 and 91, switched between eth and non eth plugs, tried several maps. Currently changing injectors. no matter what I do I still have DET latching issues.
Thanks poodragon that is a much better approach! Now people can communicate with their groups including dealers to get more info on exactly what you are experiencing. I know the hassles associated with dealing with problems and warranties can be frustrating but the approach of info and help is the key. I appreciate your detailed pm and now the info of what you are dealing with can be discussed by the masses and possibly somebody can come up with a solution.
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