Thanks for the info. Brett from TS was telling me this morning that his buddy from MT who builds bikes professionally had a great running set-up. I am presuming that is you. Couple questions. What is MRD-6 chain? How loose can you run the chains? Does 16/17 require a shorter chain than 17/20? Thanks again. I am pumped to try my 300 out on the snow. Ported, Race fuel head cut, fatty pipe, and a LT.
Gearing Questions for ktm 300xc
- Thread starter chumbilly1
- Start date
Thanks for the info. Brett from TS was telling me this morning that his buddy from MT who builds bikes professionally had a great running set-up. I am presuming that is you. Couple questions. What is MRD-6 chain? How loose can you run the chains? Does 16/17 require a shorter chain than 17/20? Thanks again. I am pumped to try my 300 out on the snow. Ported, Race fuel head cut, fatty pipe, and a LT.
M
mtn-doo
Well-known member
Sounds like a good package. MRD-6 chain is an EK product. Silky smooth and soft. Great performance advantages. I run an inch of slack, drive and chain case both. Both MRD-6. I also run about 2" of sag in the track. Really free's things up. Running the LT, I would start with 12/17, then 17/20 in the case. If you are tapped out in 3rd gear, I would go to the 16/17 in the chain case. You will have to drop 1 link if I remember correctly.
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Great! Thanks, I just checked with my favorite KTMPARTSHOUSE.COM and they sell it. I guess I can just use two master links in the case so I don't waste almost half of each chain right? I am going to try this chain on my 200sx moto bike as well. The small displacement bikes really like the non o ring chain IMHO
I will make you any number of teeth sprocket you want 60.00
Has anyone tried 12-17, 17-17 ?
If so did you have to pull a link from the chain.
Need to get a little taller.
If so did you have to pull a link from the chain.
Need to get a little taller.
12T - just cause you CAN, don't mean you SHOULD
I'm no expert on all the sprocket combinations, but from experience with my 300XCW, allow me to remind you to be exceptionally careful with chain tension when running 12t because slack chain will cut into bottom of frame tubing where meets fit kit bushings - there are other threads on that very topic. My chain never was very slack but somehow it rubbed the bushing and frame slightly, not cool. I think 12T is just a bad idea to start with.
I'm no expert on all the sprocket combinations, but from experience with my 300XCW, allow me to remind you to be exceptionally careful with chain tension when running 12t because slack chain will cut into bottom of frame tubing where meets fit kit bushings - there are other threads on that very topic. My chain never was very slack but somehow it rubbed the bushing and frame slightly, not cool. I think 12T is just a bad idea to start with.
WASnowBiker
Yea that sucks I've seen two other bike's that when there chain got to loose did the same thing. one was a KTM 500 XCW pretty sure he had a 13 tooth on. Other one was a CR500 cant remember what he runs. I think I read some where I think DOC was the name of the company that was going to try and make a guard of some type.
Throndson
the 12/17-17/17 is the same ratio as the 12/17-20/20 its a 1 to 1 in the case.
Yea that sucks I've seen two other bike's that when there chain got to loose did the same thing. one was a KTM 500 XCW pretty sure he had a 13 tooth on. Other one was a CR500 cant remember what he runs. I think I read some where I think DOC was the name of the company that was going to try and make a guard of some type.
Throndson
the 12/17-17/17 is the same ratio as the 12/17-20/20 its a 1 to 1 in the case.
300 gearing talk your guess is as good as mine!!
Throndson
I'm trying to gear higher as well, been talking to relentless rider about his 12/17-20/20 set up says he is still using his tensioner but he's use EK 520MDR6 chain which is non o ring. When I take some spare o ring chain with 29 links its so loose that the tensioner won't tighten up, take one out can't get the chain around the gears with the tensioner taken out. I ride with a guy that runs 17/17 in the chain case but he has to run with out the tensioner and takes out 2 of the stand offs for the cover. This 520MDR6 chain must be magical I need to get some, I think I read if you use it as drive chain you can put a 13/17. Don't quote me on this haven't done it yet thinking about ordering some. another option would to try 14/20-17/17 which will put you a little bit lower but not much.
Throndson
I'm trying to gear higher as well, been talking to relentless rider about his 12/17-20/20 set up says he is still using his tensioner but he's use EK 520MDR6 chain which is non o ring. When I take some spare o ring chain with 29 links its so loose that the tensioner won't tighten up, take one out can't get the chain around the gears with the tensioner taken out. I ride with a guy that runs 17/17 in the chain case but he has to run with out the tensioner and takes out 2 of the stand offs for the cover. This 520MDR6 chain must be magical I need to get some, I think I read if you use it as drive chain you can put a 13/17. Don't quote me on this haven't done it yet thinking about ordering some. another option would to try 14/20-17/17 which will put you a little bit lower but not much.
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R
relentless rider
Well-known member
20 + rides with the 12 tooth and no rubbing, no wear on the spockets at all!
I do clean and lube every ride as well as adjust chains.
with 20 20 gears im at 29 links with ek chain with adjustment to play with.
don't run the chains banjo tight.
I do clean and lube every ride as well as adjust chains.
with 20 20 gears im at 29 links with ek chain with adjustment to play with.
don't run the chains banjo tight.
R
relentless rider
Well-known member
yes, true id never run a 12 tooth on dirt ,but with the kit on it works just fine on the 300. ive ran a 13 on it but didn't like it as much..12 17 20 20 is money!
R
relentless rider
Well-known member
same as 20 20 but hear is my thoughts on it ,
with 17 17 its tighter turning than 20 20 because of the size. with 20 20 its less rolling resistance and smoother less drag..???
I wanted to try the 17-17 combo as I have an extra 17tooth sprocket. The 20-20 sounds like a better option as I'd prefer to keep the tensioner and not remove any chain case posts.
The 12-17,17-20 is definitely low but ripping through the trees in 4th on the pipe is a blast!
The 12-17,17-20 is definitely low but ripping through the trees in 4th on the pipe is a blast!
M
mtn-doo
Well-known member
yes
chain of thoughts
every 520 chain by specification has the same center to center pin distance or is a longer somewhat wore out chain. if you have to run a smaller sprocket for the after noon and wear the sprocket and chain plating a little and get things loosened up quite a bit, surfaces will wear in, and you can often then run the intended sprocket that didn't fit with new chain and sprockets. but chain stretch is no good and will cause power loss and sprocket wear and vibration that loosens bolts and will just shorten life of the whole operation. So........chain and sprocket surfaces will wear and break in, but you don't want chain stretch to make things work, measure the pin center to center.....stretched chain is junk.
I agree that 12 tooth on 520 is a poor choice, beats sitting at home but adjustments are in order if you want a smooth running drive system. You might not notice the loss of efficiency on our sno bikes, but tuning mx bikes on the track, 12 tooth counter sprocket and non oring 520 chain is an immediate power loss and will cause noticeable vibration due to the chain turning that tight corner, creates heat and heat is power loss. Better the chain quality, the worse the vibration in the footpegs with 12 tooth.
I have experienced poor chain life for the secondary chain inside the case. Heat related I think. I now run o ring chain with holes drilled in cover below foot peg height letting snow in, chain looks brand new since I installed it in Novemeber, way better for my bike that way.
For me with wide ratio tranny WR, higher ratio/ run out is better, I run about 16.2. better to make 1st gear a very usable tight woods gear and be able to kick it into 5th coming down the road late afternoon headed back to the truck and loaf along at 30 or 40 with low engine rpm.
every 520 chain by specification has the same center to center pin distance or is a longer somewhat wore out chain. if you have to run a smaller sprocket for the after noon and wear the sprocket and chain plating a little and get things loosened up quite a bit, surfaces will wear in, and you can often then run the intended sprocket that didn't fit with new chain and sprockets. but chain stretch is no good and will cause power loss and sprocket wear and vibration that loosens bolts and will just shorten life of the whole operation. So........chain and sprocket surfaces will wear and break in, but you don't want chain stretch to make things work, measure the pin center to center.....stretched chain is junk.
I agree that 12 tooth on 520 is a poor choice, beats sitting at home but adjustments are in order if you want a smooth running drive system. You might not notice the loss of efficiency on our sno bikes, but tuning mx bikes on the track, 12 tooth counter sprocket and non oring 520 chain is an immediate power loss and will cause noticeable vibration due to the chain turning that tight corner, creates heat and heat is power loss. Better the chain quality, the worse the vibration in the footpegs with 12 tooth.
I have experienced poor chain life for the secondary chain inside the case. Heat related I think. I now run o ring chain with holes drilled in cover below foot peg height letting snow in, chain looks brand new since I installed it in Novemeber, way better for my bike that way.
For me with wide ratio tranny WR, higher ratio/ run out is better, I run about 16.2. better to make 1st gear a very usable tight woods gear and be able to kick it into 5th coming down the road late afternoon headed back to the truck and loaf along at 30 or 40 with low engine rpm.
I would like an 19 and an 18 for the chain case please.
running 13/16 17/20 t runs really good. 2nd and 3rd are money tree gears. no chain cutting or longer chains.
Are the sprockets all interchangeable? I might need a couple 16T for the rear of drive chain location.
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