Ya, FIRST RULE, NEVER EVER EVER EVER EVER, did i mention never, hit the puller bolt with a hammer!!!!
This will side impact your crank bearings and brinnel them. That is, putting small divots on the ball bearing side surface. Over time, they start pitting, and getting rough, then BAM. new crank and bottom end time.
I;ve pulled off many many stuck clutches with heat and a cheap tool. MAP torch works great. Tried water once, failed, I just immediately grab the torch. Tighten puller very tight, then heat the base of the inner sheave. Where the inside taper starts. Slowly rotate crank heating all way around. When you feel you got enough heat in, heat more. The clutch shafts take a lot of heat in use. Bit it will also expand the chutch taper, similar to how water does.
Also, big super tip for re installing. Clean tapers really well with brake clean and tough cloth, or brown scotchbrite. Dip finger into oil, and wipe light coating on crank and inside clutch taper. I mean light light coating. Do not slobber it... I clean the taper really really well. And this super light coating of oil prevents future corrosion from locking it on super tight again. I'ts not going to slip, as its not anywhere near thick enough coating to lubricate. And the taper has so much clamping force when torqued. It does, however, fill the micro pores of the metal with a non rusting substance.
My Doo has 13,000 mountian KM on her and clutch still comes off nice with these tricks
My Polaris was stuck on the hardest of any sled I've ever had, when she was new from factory.
