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Fuel Filter replacement

Murph

Polaris Moderator/ Polaris Ambassador
Staff member
Lifetime Membership
Time for a new fuel filter. 2200+ miles now on the Pro RMK.

Think it may be plugged. Symptoms include:

Scenario 1.-- constant throttle 6,000 rpm whack the throttle open sled falls on its face and then recovers (if I close the throttle and open it again it recovers faster)--- feels like fuel starvation

Scenario 2-- on the trail 1/2-3/4 throttle and pin it rpms hold at 7500 feels like it is on the limiter BUT if I keep it pinned with it stuttering it will clear out and take off like a rocket. Sort of feels like when carbs would load up and then clear.

I have a feel for when it will do it and through throttle modulation I can avoid most of it.


Fuel filter is on order (back ordered until 4/11)

Any special tools required to remove or install new filter?

Thanks,
Murph
 
if it is the same setup as the dragon then yes you need a special tool. of course i don't remember what it was called or how to describe it but i got one from a parts store for a couple bucks. it wraps around your fuel line and slides under the metal and releases the latches. see not a very good description. i have a 1000 or so miles on mine and was thinking about replacing it but haven't gotten around to it yet. if i was having your issues it would probably be where i would start too.

good luck

pv
 
Anyone replace their fuel filter by themselves?

Do my symptoms sound like what others experienced before replacing their filters?

Thanks, just waiting for filter to come off back order...want to be ready with any tools I may need.
 
The New Pro Fuel Filter Comes with the Fuel Rail! that's why it is over $100$$ not 47$ like the dragons


Yes you will still need a fuel disconnect tool for the tank side..

sold at any NAPA Store around 10$

time it takes to change one out.. is 2 Hrs!
 
2521095

ASM-FUEL LINE,W/FILTER,RMK

$87.14

You don't have to replace the fuel rail, just the hose from the rail up to the next connection. Still a pain.

I just had mine into the dealer to fix an injector wire that had rubbed through. Turns out both injectors and the harness are all one piece! New injectors and it runs the best it ever has. Anyway, when my injector wire had started rubbing through I found it, taped it, and rode it the past couple months like that. I had something similiar to what you stated on deep pwder days, when I leaned it over, hard throttle it got to the point I could hear the cut out/bog/det light coming. Once I found and taped the wire, the problem went away. Also, the dealer told me that is the throttle play is off it can cause some weird readings and the computer thinks it's over reving. Someone covered it a few topics back. I think the adjuster is about 6" from the throttle, should be 1/8" of play.

Just curious Murph, you seem do be doing a fair amount of warranty work yourself, like the pull rope. Do you just not want to give the sled up for any amount of time to the dealer?
 
"Just curious Murph, you seem do be doing a fair amount of warranty work yourself, like the pull rope. Do you just not want to give the sled up for any amount of time to the dealer?"

Warranty work I've done this year (on two Pro 155's-- 2,200 miles and 1,100 miles)

Starter solenoid (failed)- Red Pro
Starter pinion gear (stripped)- Silver Pro
Recoil rope- Silver Pro
Oil cap (2nd one also leaked--probably bottle problem-- wrapped threads with teflon tape, no more issues)- Silver Pro
TSS switch (taped it shut so it wouldn't give false readings when snow packed in behind the throttle flipper)- Silver Pro

Not one of these issues kept me from riding. I would buy another Pro in a heartbeat.-- Seriously thinking of snowchecking a 2012 163.

My dealer is great. I like the guys in all the departments. Like many dealerships during the peak riding season everyone wants everything fixed yesterday. They are really busy and I would rather free them up to do other work to keep other customers happy-- and I don't mind doing the work. It's simpler and easier for them, and I get a more intimate knowledge of our machines. Most people don't realize what it takes to run a dealership-- let alone keep every customer happy. It's impossible to employ enough mechanics for the peak season all year round.

Just FYI, throttle free play is way less than 1/8 inch... it's really small it's measure in thousandths of an inch.
 
Last edited:
The New Pro Fuel Filter Comes with the Fuel Rail! that's why it is over $100$$ not 47$ like the dragons


Yes you will still need a fuel disconnect tool for the tank side..

sold at any NAPA Store around 10$

time it takes to change one out.. is 2 Hrs!

2 Hrs, is that hard or just time consuming? Can you explain how to do it ? was thinking about changing mine be for next season .
 
The New Pro Fuel Filter Comes with the Fuel Rail! that's why it is over $100$$ not 47$ like the dragons


Yes you will still need a fuel disconnect tool for the tank side..

sold at any NAPA Store around 10$

time it takes to change one out.. is 2 Hrs!

2 Hrs, is that hard or just time consuming? Can you explain how to do it ? was thinking about changing mine be for next season .

Release oil tank from belt guard - 3 minutes and 1/4" drive with 10mm socket and extension. Leave oil line connected.
Remove 2 10mm nuts at rear of belt guard and 2 (3?) at front of guard - 4 minutes using same 1/4" drive setup. Need to remove fuel tank nut and one honda clip at footrest to bend console out of the way. Optional is to disconnect all electrical connections and fully remove belt guard/
ECU/regulator/capacitor form vehicle. This takes about 2 extra minutes.
Use little fuel line tool and release the fuel line from the tank end of the filter. Unbolt the banjo bolt at the fuel rail, don't lose any seal washers. 3 minutes. Fuel line tool usage: insert tool with narrow end towards the fitting, push fuel line as far onto fitting as it will go, push tool into the fuel line, hear click and push tool while pulling fuel line off of fitting.
Total removal time - 10 minutes. 20 minutes if beer is used and hood is removed. If more than three beers are applied, it could take an hour to reassemble. :face-icon-small-ton

In a pinch, you can backflush the filter, bang it around and knock/blow out a lot of crap if you can't get one b4 the next ride. I used to do it to auto FI filters back in the day with reasonable success.

Make sure the fuel tank vent line runs down the rear upright tube and is not dangling in the engine compartment.
 
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