Thanks for the info. My track does not have the large porting, so I guess they are of no use to me.
Free or Cheap Mods
- Thread starter stevepolaris
- Start date
I had one coming loose so I removed them and it let in more snow, so I put them back on.
Sidehiller Ski Swap.
If you have the sidehiller skis, swap em aruond. (right on left ect...) It gives you a wider sweet spot that is easy to hold when ya get er on its side. Seems to be just as easy to pull over. Much more control on the side hill. Dont know why, but it does. Guys in logan Ut are seeking them out to put on their XPs. Try it. Its FREE.
If you have the sidehiller skis, swap em aruond. (right on left ect...) It gives you a wider sweet spot that is easy to hold when ya get er on its side. Seems to be just as easy to pull over. Much more control on the side hill. Dont know why, but it does. Guys in logan Ut are seeking them out to put on their XPs. Try it. Its FREE.
what works just as well as an old belt on your skis is plastic chain links you can find this in the chain section at home depot super light and so small it can fit in the smallest pocket on your back pack.. just use a quick clip to join them together..
easy mod
free and easy mod, i will try get a pic up tomorrow. But next to the tec on my rev and most rev's there is no spedo. pop that off cut out the center ring and put pre filter or screen door mesh there. get some heat out!! and i fugure heat rises... its the little things.
free and easy mod, i will try get a pic up tomorrow. But next to the tec on my rev and most rev's there is no spedo. pop that off cut out the center ring and put pre filter or screen door mesh there. get some heat out!! and i fugure heat rises... its the little things.
what is the red on/off valve for I just noticed that this week? and should it be on or off?
Are you referring to the red on/off valve that is on the line running to the carburetors?? If so, that is the heated carb line. If on, it will circulate hot coolant from the engine through the carbs and heat them so you don't have the freezing carb syndrome. A lot of people, me included, delete that system. The manual says to use it when you get below zero, but I have never had a problem or needed to use them, therefore I deleted it. I'm sure someone else will chime in with why you DO need them....
V
Vailguy
Well-known member
Rev Recoil
If anyone is tired of buying 20$ recoil kits every season, because of all the problems associated with the current design. Let me know as I am currently in the process of making a new assembly that should last forever.
It would use your existing recoil housing, but the internal components would be CNC machined from aluminum and anodized for a better heat resistance and smoother sliding surface. The plastic tabs would be gone forever, and replacing them are thicker stronger aluminum locked connection....The plastic is known to slip past the tabs and become useless.....I've had to rip apart my recoil out on a ride and put it back together and it's not a fun experience.
The internal parts are known to come off their housing and rattle around and damage other parts. With this new design the snap ring is replaced with a ring type cap with a hole pre drilled so you can drill through the top plastic and use a cotter pin to seal everything.
I am currently using a bolt and a washer at the end of my recoil assembly and it seems to be working for the time being.
I need to know if there is any interest for me to show a prototype on the forums or if anyone thinks they would be intersted in seeing how it works? before you decide you want one for your sled.....This is for REV model ski doo sleds.
Mine is an 07 MXZ 591cc 121"
- race suspension rs4
- 440 gearing
- clutch kit
- V force 3 reeds
- 1.75" backcountry x track
- Freeride skis
- MBRP trail can
- WRP seat, running boards, and extra cold air intake kit installed.
- Timbersled A arms, narrow stance and skis further ahead.
- Frogskinz
- scs wrap
- 7" riser
- purple secondary spring
- ipone oil
- xtx belts
If anyone is tired of buying 20$ recoil kits every season, because of all the problems associated with the current design. Let me know as I am currently in the process of making a new assembly that should last forever.
It would use your existing recoil housing, but the internal components would be CNC machined from aluminum and anodized for a better heat resistance and smoother sliding surface. The plastic tabs would be gone forever, and replacing them are thicker stronger aluminum locked connection....The plastic is known to slip past the tabs and become useless.....I've had to rip apart my recoil out on a ride and put it back together and it's not a fun experience.
The internal parts are known to come off their housing and rattle around and damage other parts. With this new design the snap ring is replaced with a ring type cap with a hole pre drilled so you can drill through the top plastic and use a cotter pin to seal everything.
I am currently using a bolt and a washer at the end of my recoil assembly and it seems to be working for the time being.
I need to know if there is any interest for me to show a prototype on the forums or if anyone thinks they would be intersted in seeing how it works? before you decide you want one for your sled.....This is for REV model ski doo sleds.
Mine is an 07 MXZ 591cc 121"
- race suspension rs4
- 440 gearing
- clutch kit
- V force 3 reeds
- 1.75" backcountry x track
- Freeride skis
- MBRP trail can
- WRP seat, running boards, and extra cold air intake kit installed.
- Timbersled A arms, narrow stance and skis further ahead.
- Frogskinz
- scs wrap
- 7" riser
- purple secondary spring
- ipone oil
- xtx belts
not free BUT
2005-2006 1000 recoil will last a lot longer than then stock...
not a fan of pods for the following reasons
under hood heat
restricted air flow
lose of hp (dyno proven)
frozen filters
the stock rev air box is light, functional, cold air intake and easy to remove...
I remove side panel air box and tape off vents on back side and pop it apart and remove shelf, re assemble...
if you have a mod 800/827/840 than the 2007 800R air box is the best one to use to add a couple hp...
NGK BPR9ES gapped at .018" MPEM sled, .032" SDI/Ptek sleds
post forward is mandatory
foot well mod is mandatory
taper cut tunnel and add XP drop brackets to jack up back an inch or so
minor clutching/gearing apply also-BJ
2005-2006 1000 recoil will last a lot longer than then stock...
not a fan of pods for the following reasons
under hood heat
restricted air flow
lose of hp (dyno proven)
frozen filters
the stock rev air box is light, functional, cold air intake and easy to remove...
I remove side panel air box and tape off vents on back side and pop it apart and remove shelf, re assemble...
if you have a mod 800/827/840 than the 2007 800R air box is the best one to use to add a couple hp...
NGK BPR9ES gapped at .018" MPEM sled, .032" SDI/Ptek sleds
post forward is mandatory
foot well mod is mandatory
taper cut tunnel and add XP drop brackets to jack up back an inch or so
minor clutching/gearing apply also-BJ
Needle grease the front skis at the spindle.
Drill into the lager area around the bushing.
Spindle bushings should last longer.
You can disassemble them and clean out the bits the first time.
But honestly,,,,, what could a coule little aluminum bits do if you just leave it alone and pump grease? It's still 100X better than no grease at all.
Drill into the lager area around the bushing.
Spindle bushings should last longer.
You can disassemble them and clean out the bits the first time.
But honestly,,,,, what could a coule little aluminum bits do if you just leave it alone and pump grease? It's still 100X better than no grease at all.
Similar threads
