Thats Danzick's sled, search him and he'll help you out.
Free or Cheap Mods
- Thread starter stevepolaris
- Start date
Thats Danzick's sled, search him and he'll help you out.
Ah, gotcha. Thanks!!
What pod filters are you using and where did you get them? I found the ones on the SLP site, just wondering if there are more choices or if that is it?? Thanks.
M
monster967
Member
That is where the muff pot is supposed to go!! By far the best mod I have ever done to a sled. $30 bucks
Their mounted where the MPEM was, My MUFF-Pot is on my siliencer.
just slide it over the ski like a loop it will come up to the spindle when the sled it movin forward it will be looped and angles back around and under the bottom of the ski with the top holdin against the spindle and the bottom help rearward under the ski acting like a scoop in a scence causing alot of drag and holdback of snow against the belt under the ski and that hold back will feel like you are constantly on the brakes just from the front, put one on both skis and you can creep down steep hills
kinda confusing to explain, Make one put in on you sled or store it somewhere and just try it out even on the trail a time or two and you`ll be amazed.
if you have an old dried out not rideable belt layin around things to put over the ski or skis anything that will go around it and cause drag under the ski should work. And free mod!!! cut , drill hole bolt and nut don`t even need the clip put it in a tunnel bag or under the hood somewhere. personally the belt idea would cause more braking effort or drag...
I have even seen this idea,this one is obviously adjust able to any size you could use high strength plastic chain also, I saved this pic to my pc but I would rather have the belt won`t scratch up the spindle or skis.
Wildcard
This is a great idea, but another one is to get to the edge of the hill and just before going over the edge put the sled in reverse, if you have a newer sled, then if you need to slow down just tap the throttle. works great and gives you more control.
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powderman800
Member
I got some K&N Filter chargers & pre-filters from Summit Racing but I think Dennis Kirk has them. I switched over to a Timber Sled intake kit which comes with a set of pods & prefilters.
2004's remove those rubber flaps under the front of the running board.
I switched to pods also, don`t have the K&N filters or Kickass ones I am currently running the a pair of 6inch Unifilters with no socks on them for a few rides now, I have good venting to the side panels and they have been workin great have noticed no difference in performance. but looks cleaner in the engine compartment easier to work on and lost some weight from removing the inside and outside airboxs I made a aluminum bracket that comes off the top of the Mag side carb and has a hole that the temp sensor a grommet goes in. rerouted the vent hose from the dpm to the outer airbox and routed it to the center of the carbs you can see in the pic its held inplace with the Yellow ziptie..
Also remove the carb heater hoses , one goes from the LH carb to the head ,took the hose and red handled on/off twist valve off and bought a 1/8inch pipe plug to plug the hole in the head, removed the RH hose that goes from carb to bottom of coolant fill tank, rubber capover hose on the tank and left the the nipples on the carbs open will maybe put some rubber plugs over them but seem to work with them open. now it will be easier to remove the carbs without the airbox, carb heater hoses that restrict how you can move the carbs around if you happen to have to rejet for some reason, just makes things cleaner and easier to workon and get to
you can also see over to the other side of whats left of the oil injection tank I cut it up to retain where the MPEM box (without having to buy the mxz x 440 race brackets that remount the MPEM box) and the pull start handle bezel and the 440 small oil tank that keeps the waterpump shaft lubed after you block off where the Oil Pump used to mounton the other side.
Wildcard
Also remove the carb heater hoses , one goes from the LH carb to the head ,took the hose and red handled on/off twist valve off and bought a 1/8inch pipe plug to plug the hole in the head, removed the RH hose that goes from carb to bottom of coolant fill tank, rubber capover hose on the tank and left the the nipples on the carbs open will maybe put some rubber plugs over them but seem to work with them open. now it will be easier to remove the carbs without the airbox, carb heater hoses that restrict how you can move the carbs around if you happen to have to rejet for some reason, just makes things cleaner and easier to workon and get to
you can also see over to the other side of whats left of the oil injection tank I cut it up to retain where the MPEM box (without having to buy the mxz x 440 race brackets that remount the MPEM box) and the pull start handle bezel and the 440 small oil tank that keeps the waterpump shaft lubed after you block off where the Oil Pump used to mounton the other side.
Wildcard
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There are times and places where you can't ride your sled down on its side and that's where the chains, belts, work great on the skis for controlling your decent!
Like to see ya ride that sled down a Steep narrow Chute on its side,
Don`t knock them till you try them.
We use them when mostly in the spring time when the snow and hill slides are set up harder snow that you can climb fast but have no traction for the backshift of the clutch if your on a Doo or for the track, no powder or soft enough snow to lay the sled on its side to carve in or bit just slide down the side of the set up hill side to do what you suggest
Wildcard
Don`t knock them till you try them.
We use them when mostly in the spring time when the snow and hill slides are set up harder snow that you can climb fast but have no traction for the backshift of the clutch if your on a Doo or for the track, no powder or soft enough snow to lay the sled on its side to carve in or bit just slide down the side of the set up hill side to do what you suggest
Wildcard
S
stevepolaris
Well-known member
thanks.. loved them they worked out really good, exspet for the hood it was hard to find the right place to munt it on and to make a bracket . but got a lot of that cold air out and it looks pretty sweet
do you need to rejet if you put in filters?
My sled has Pod Uni Filter and still running stock jetting, 800ho, 400jets I watch it pretty closely even after getting Big Johns 150hp + TT ported topend kit he still recommends stock jetting and maybe down to 390 if rich. wouldn`t want to go leaner unless engine requires that.
Here is a free, Feel safe mod.
Theremostat delete.
Gut the original thermostat leaving the larger diameter parts with the seal built on it and trim out all the rest, then get a 3/4inch copper pipe cap and drill a 1/8inch hole in it and insert it in the hose that goes from the thermostat housing to the coolant fill tank, no worries about T stat sticking and overheating the engine sled will also run cooler so I hear.
Just warm the sled up good before riding so engine gets to operating temperature, but don`t we all already do that or you should..
other than the copper cap this is definetly a cheap/free Mod.
Not my pics, I just saved them from the internet, Heres the gutted T stat
and copper cap w 1/8inch hole
drilled cap in hose.
Good Luck. Wildcard
Here is a free, Feel safe mod.
Theremostat delete.
Gut the original thermostat leaving the larger diameter parts with the seal built on it and trim out all the rest, then get a 3/4inch copper pipe cap and drill a 1/8inch hole in it and insert it in the hose that goes from the thermostat housing to the coolant fill tank, no worries about T stat sticking and overheating the engine sled will also run cooler so I hear.
Just warm the sled up good before riding so engine gets to operating temperature, but don`t we all already do that or you should..
other than the copper cap this is definetly a cheap/free Mod.
Not my pics, I just saved them from the internet, Heres the gutted T stat
and copper cap w 1/8inch hole
drilled cap in hose.
Good Luck. Wildcard
cheap scratchers
Just drill a 3/8 hole in the back of each ski and stick a 3/8 bolt about 3or4 inches long in it and a nut and lock washer on it and wholla you have scratchers that spray snow on your track. If they wear out your out .30 for new bolts. Granted it's not the same as scratchers on your rails but work better then nothing.
Just drill a 3/8 hole in the back of each ski and stick a 3/8 bolt about 3or4 inches long in it and a nut and lock washer on it and wholla you have scratchers that spray snow on your track. If they wear out your out .30 for new bolts. Granted it's not the same as scratchers on your rails but work better then nothing.
Felker`s flappers
Hope you had a good summer. But it`s time to start thinking about the sled again. I was wondering, what are Felker`s flappers and where can you get them?
S
sledsrock
Well-known member
Get them from Felker Motorsports...
http://www.felkermotorsports.net/Fe...lapper-Kit-detail.htm?productId=-260286&pos=0
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