F
Frenchie
Well-known member
Haha, this is no assumption. Sled totally rips and if it makes you feel better, there was 4 other guys from Vernon with 07's and no problems at all. But I guess you'll have to see for yourself!
First 07 clutch thread, sorry everyone...
- Thread starter summitsrule
- Start date
Haha, this is no assumption. Sled totally rips and if it makes you feel better, there was 4 other guys from Vernon with 07's and no problems at all. But I guess you'll have to see for yourself!
Update:
Okay, so I finally rode in some deaper snow. Coming over hood, but not by much. Was very fluffy, a fun time.
Anyways, the sled on the trail was reving perfectly at clicker 4. Hit the deep snow and then was dissapointed. Not much higher in elevation, guessing 4000' at absolute highest, same clicker all day. It was hardly over 8000 RPM on flat ground in the deep. I only had an hour or so of daylight to play in the snow so I didn't try changing clickers. But then again I don't wanna have to change them when going on and off trails everytime. I still rode and had fun but was not too happy about it not performing the way it should.
So where I really got mad, was when I opened the side door to look at belt. It had already pulled a string and the primary is black from belt wear in maybe 10 miles of riding in deep flat snow. This is exactly where I was last season. The only fix to this issue was to remove every second oring on the buttons in the primary. But then it took out the main bushings after 500 miles like that.
Long story short, I am not going to put up with a belt every 100 miles at best again this season. 7 belts last year in 900 miles is enough. Once I figured out the oring thing, the last belt went for 500 miles or so. I am going to call my dealer, but he is 450 km's one way from me.
So I think I may just buy a TRAIII and call her a day. I know it has been done, but I have no idea where the best place to buy one is. Any ideas? Also, can I put all the internal parts into the TRAIII from my TRAVI? What all does a guy need to do it. I am trying to run DJ secondary helix if that matters. I will also be gearing down a bit. Does anyone know what gear ratio is in a 2007 Summit X 144"? And what gearing should I go to.
When I get home from work tonight I will search for some of the above info, I hope to have all parts in by this friday. Later.
Okay, so I finally rode in some deaper snow. Coming over hood, but not by much. Was very fluffy, a fun time.
Anyways, the sled on the trail was reving perfectly at clicker 4. Hit the deep snow and then was dissapointed. Not much higher in elevation, guessing 4000' at absolute highest, same clicker all day. It was hardly over 8000 RPM on flat ground in the deep. I only had an hour or so of daylight to play in the snow so I didn't try changing clickers. But then again I don't wanna have to change them when going on and off trails everytime. I still rode and had fun but was not too happy about it not performing the way it should.
So where I really got mad, was when I opened the side door to look at belt. It had already pulled a string and the primary is black from belt wear in maybe 10 miles of riding in deep flat snow. This is exactly where I was last season. The only fix to this issue was to remove every second oring on the buttons in the primary. But then it took out the main bushings after 500 miles like that.
Long story short, I am not going to put up with a belt every 100 miles at best again this season. 7 belts last year in 900 miles is enough. Once I figured out the oring thing, the last belt went for 500 miles or so. I am going to call my dealer, but he is 450 km's one way from me.
So I think I may just buy a TRAIII and call her a day. I know it has been done, but I have no idea where the best place to buy one is. Any ideas? Also, can I put all the internal parts into the TRAIII from my TRAVI? What all does a guy need to do it. I am trying to run DJ secondary helix if that matters. I will also be gearing down a bit. Does anyone know what gear ratio is in a 2007 Summit X 144"? And what gearing should I go to.
When I get home from work tonight I will search for some of the above info, I hope to have all parts in by this friday. Later.
Sounds like more of a settup issue. Are you just running stock or have you tried making improvements? There are huge gains to be had in performance and reduced heat with settup alone. The III and 7 are identical in function so the results might be the same if you can't say for sure it is an issue with the primary.
My 07 seems to be running awesome! Holds RPMs just fine. I also have DJ's clutch kit in it and I think I might add some more pin weight and see what happens. Winter Brews setup he mentioned on the first page sounds pretty good. I would try that before anything else.
I have an XRS, fought the son of a ***** all last year.
I got the clutch update done in Nov. and have been to Togowatee (9500 - 10000ft). three times so far, nice deep powder every time.
Running better than it ever has and run consistently all day, which is a huge change from last year.
No belt issues and I have rode it like a rental. Brand new belt, (which I did not really clean or break in, I know...)
I am running clicker 5 and pulling R's at the green and it's not fluctuating like it did last year.
This is a stock setup, (I figure BRP needs to pay as long as it is in warranty) my sled is vented and unnecesary **** removed, running a can, thats about it.
I think the ****ty track is one of the biggest problems with this sled, the way it trenches makes the engine and clutching work extra hard.
I am going to change to a powder max (if anyone has a better suggestion please chime in).
Gearing is also in the future in hopes of dropping a clicker setting or two.
All suggestions are welcome I am not a clutch guru but I am going to try some different stuff this year as long as it keeps running good and I have a solid base line to evaluate changes from.
For now it is rippin' and I never get beat by 06's, (stock) and I ride with a couple of them.
I got the clutch update done in Nov. and have been to Togowatee (9500 - 10000ft). three times so far, nice deep powder every time.
Running better than it ever has and run consistently all day, which is a huge change from last year.
No belt issues and I have rode it like a rental. Brand new belt, (which I did not really clean or break in, I know...)
I am running clicker 5 and pulling R's at the green and it's not fluctuating like it did last year.
This is a stock setup, (I figure BRP needs to pay as long as it is in warranty) my sled is vented and unnecesary **** removed, running a can, thats about it.
I think the ****ty track is one of the biggest problems with this sled, the way it trenches makes the engine and clutching work extra hard.
I am going to change to a powder max (if anyone has a better suggestion please chime in).
Gearing is also in the future in hopes of dropping a clicker setting or two.
All suggestions are welcome I am not a clutch guru but I am going to try some different stuff this year as long as it keeps running good and I have a solid base line to evaluate changes from.
For now it is rippin' and I never get beat by 06's, (stock) and I ride with a couple of them.
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I have tried a zillion setups. Re-checked alignment many times. I know it is primary on the simple fact, that if I remove every second oring on the primary buttons, I get 500 miles to a belt, no RPM fluctuation. But I only get a season out of the other primary bushings then. So I don't want to keep the orings out as a permenant fix. Follow?
After it has been to 2 dealers, 3 different times, I take it apart after every ride, and sometimes during the ride, just to check and try different setups. There is definately an issue in the primary, the dealers just can't seem to find it. When I call them tomorrow, if they don't want to replace it, then I will just buy one that is proven to be okay. I have had enough.
Now the question is which clutch, tra 3 or polar or what. I think the TRA 3 because of the clicker adjustments, and the hopes to keep cost down by using the springs, ramps, etc out of mine.
Does anyone know where the cheapest place to buy a new TRA 3 is? US or Canada.
After it has been to 2 dealers, 3 different times, I take it apart after every ride, and sometimes during the ride, just to check and try different setups. There is definately an issue in the primary, the dealers just can't seem to find it. When I call them tomorrow, if they don't want to replace it, then I will just buy one that is proven to be okay. I have had enough.
Now the question is which clutch, tra 3 or polar or what. I think the TRA 3 because of the clicker adjustments, and the hopes to keep cost down by using the springs, ramps, etc out of mine.
Does anyone know where the cheapest place to buy a new TRA 3 is? US or Canada.
cudney just got a bunch of tra-111's in I only have 50 miles on mine and it seems to be running great cleaned belt and primary and secondary before I went to Togwotee but i did have to adjust the secondary again when I got home belt looks great will see this weekend hope to put on another 50+ miles this Saturday
I got the cluthing to work perfect I used a 2005 secondary spring out of a 600 summit and used the hollow core pins 11.9 grams I think they are the same ones out of a 800mxz. I have 2 xrs 151 both hold 8250 rpm. I also had the latest updates done. Last year I couldn,t hold 8250 maybe 7500 to 8250.
I think that ski-doo should give the people who snow checked a sled A three year engine waranty because eveybody gets a two year warranty, but we had to give up another option to get the warranty. I wish more people would complain about this and maybe ski-doo would make it right.
I think that ski-doo should give the people who snow checked a sled A three year engine waranty because eveybody gets a two year warranty, but we had to give up another option to get the warranty. I wish more people would complain about this and maybe ski-doo would make it right.
I aggree TTheat. Kinda a rip off that I don't really get anymore warranty than the guys that had only one year. But, what do you do. Hopefully I will not need the engine warranty, hopefully.
Does anyone know where to get a TRA 3 that is not full retail? Cudney racing is sold out.
Does anyone know where to get a TRA 3 that is not full retail? Cudney racing is sold out.
you may want to check your button towers. i remember reading that dynamo joe has seen some towers that get tighter towards the top of the towers. the farther the primary shifts, the tighter the towers become. mabye that helps?
I bought a 159 xrs out of the box this fall. All updates done, not sure on the pin weight but I know it has a 44/40 helix with purple spring, primary set on #4. Holds rpm great (8400 trail 8200 snow/hill) untill it gets hot than they fall to 7600-8000 on the hill. Clutches are warm, bordering on hot by this time. You can hold your hand on them but barely. 19/45 gears, clutch cover removed. Will switching to the 44/36 helix correct this? I feel like more venting will help but not solve the problem completely. I am even with or beating the stock m1000's on the first couple of pulls, than my clutches get warm and they smoke me!
Fellas, a friend of mine has a 2007 XPS 800 159". Problems with driven clutch have been numerous. It all started last year riding the steep and deep. It never seemed to backshaft correctly. He was going from 8200 down to 7500 on steep climbs all the time and then it happened. He could not make the hill got bucked off, dragged down the hill, smacked a 3' pine tree, major damage. He thinks that with all the problems in the secondary clutch, that Doo should pay for the damage on his sled. Everyone else made the hill, including 2 2006 Summits, 2 900 Mountain Cats and a 2006 M series 700 Cat. It was not his fault the Doo would not back shift. Now this week he went out with a friend of his 2006 driven clutch on his 2007. He pulled 8200 to 8400 all day long and the driven had 3000 miles on it. He called his dealer and was pissed and told them to order up a 2006 driven clutch and throw the 2007 driven away. I know its not a roller clutch but it does work and he will be happy with the 2006 driven. Why does the 2007 not work correctly. In fact he had all the updates done to his 2007 driven before the season and it still did not work right. I have heard that some peoples clutches are working fine and that others are not. BRP needs to get its sh== together or they are gonna lose a lot of folks. Keep the faith and just maybe Doo will get it right. The Spudman
mine appears to be running great
I have about 220 miles on mine since the updates. Belt appears to be holding up good and the sled rocks!
I have about 220 miles on mine since the updates. Belt appears to be holding up good and the sled rocks!
S
snowrdr
Well-known member
Rode mine today and the clutch seemed to work. On setting 4 it help 8300 rpm, until I changed it to 3 then it backed down to about 8100 then held it all day. Secondary set at 2. I have removed that plastic clutch cover as I did on my 04. Did have some belt smell but thats all. The only issue I have is at 7200 and above the throttle to clutch respone seemed a bit weak.
My updates has been done and the sled runs killer ...not as much RPM fluctuation as before and the thing goes like stink ...no belt problems and I have put on 200 miles so far this year
Cheers
Now as long as the motor doesnt blow up I should be good
Cheers
Now as long as the motor doesnt blow up I should be good
Summitsrule, what track speed are you getting?
I can only pull 64 mph out in our fields west of Beaverlodge. Last year the most track speed I could get climbing was 43 mph while an 04 of the same model, I could get 49 mph and out climb the mark I put up with my machine.
160-350, 44/36 Dalton, 412 ramps 19/47 gears and all the new updates.
Changing out challenger lite for a 162 and 9" wheel kit.
SB.
I can only pull 64 mph out in our fields west of Beaverlodge. Last year the most track speed I could get climbing was 43 mph while an 04 of the same model, I could get 49 mph and out climb the mark I put up with my machine.
160-350, 44/36 Dalton, 412 ramps 19/47 gears and all the new updates.
Changing out challenger lite for a 162 and 9" wheel kit.
SB.
First of all, mine is only a 144". But my track speed is mid 40's if I remember from last year. I don't pay alot of attention to that, because I don't climb very often. But when I did a comparison to my bro's 06 last year, it was similar results to what you have found. His was 4 MPH faster track speed, me riding both sleds, same hill. His was always higher than mine. That being said, I changed to a Camoplast after that day and it seems to be beter, but not as good as his yet. I still have not directly compared them now with the same track.
I have no idea what my track speeds are in a flat field. Probably not much more than what you are getting.
Update:
So my dealer has fought pretty hard with BRP to get me some warranty and I guess it is going to be fixed now. I have proven to the dealership (approx 450km's away one way) that when my orings are all installed in the primary, belt life is horible, won't rev in 3' or deeper snow even in a meadow. Pull every second oring, sled does not eat belts, revs perfectly. They have ordered me a new, under warranty, sliding primary half, and governor cup. It may not be installed till after Christmas, but I sure hope it is beter. I may just buy a fixed half and have them install it at the same time, then I will have a complete new primary, other than springs, arms, ramps, etc...
I am really glad to hear this, as I was currently trying to find a TRA 3. Will let everyone know when I get some good tests on it. Won't be untill after new year now.
So my dealer has fought pretty hard with BRP to get me some warranty and I guess it is going to be fixed now. I have proven to the dealership (approx 450km's away one way) that when my orings are all installed in the primary, belt life is horible, won't rev in 3' or deeper snow even in a meadow. Pull every second oring, sled does not eat belts, revs perfectly. They have ordered me a new, under warranty, sliding primary half, and governor cup. It may not be installed till after Christmas, but I sure hope it is beter. I may just buy a fixed half and have them install it at the same time, then I will have a complete new primary, other than springs, arms, ramps, etc...
I am really glad to hear this, as I was currently trying to find a TRA 3. Will let everyone know when I get some good tests on it. Won't be untill after new year now.
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