Feels too light on the skis,

[prosledder]

This is a great thread!!! Like most I'm anxiously waiting for it to snow and in the process of doing pre season maintance. I like to review what people have found to work well and read their opinons on different setups etc. I remember reading through this thread last year and after some searching I found it and remembered how much valuable info there is. Just thought I would bring it back to life for those who haven't had a chance to read through it. Thanks to those who have contributed to this thread!! Hope everyone has a great season!

 

[Jer27]

Just what I was looking for...Great info

 

[gman086]

I'd like to put to bed some things that may be confusing to many in this thread...
The one size limiter strap is fine on the Pro as there is plenty of range for adjustment using both the FTS and RTS preload settings.
Increasing the FTS preload definitely REDUCES ski pressure. The FTS setting is NOT universal peeps! Snow conditions and rider weight AND height play a HUGE part in where that setting needs to be. I was bashed on the forum for suggesting the whole 1" threads showing by some MT "shop owner" saying I had no clue. Well guess what dude, I need a different setting than you. MT gets DRY powder and you're some 6'2" 300 lb behemoth! I ride Cascade CONCRETE and go 5'9" 175lbs.!

The deal is the shorter you are, the lower your c of g and the more help you need with reducing ski pressure to initiate a countersteer. This gets compounded by heavier snow and even more by being lighter weight and not sagging the rear of the suspension more. SO...
My rule of thumb is 1" threads showing for riders in heavy snow and under 5'9" height.
1/2" thread showing for taller riders in same snow.
Minimum preload (1 turn) for most riders in CO, MT, UT, WY type "dry" snow (you shouldn't go zero preload as the spring needs to stay in place when airborne). May need to increase for short/light riders but probably not beyond 1/2" threads showing depending on how light the snow is.
Rear shock with just enough preload to prevent harsh bottoming; dial in even more for days when climbing the real steeps like chutes and such. If super steep then you want minimum FTS preload and heavy RTS preload no matter what your body type is.
I've been tuning suspensions for a long time and will put these recommendations up any day against the "know-it-all-one-setting-for-everyone" shops.

Have FUN!

G MAN

 

[TommyF]

Found this thread while searching for info on suspension adjustments and their effect on handling. Great info. Would like to get some clarification so I am understanding everything right. Tell me if I am correct or need more clarification.

My sled - 2014 800 Pro RMK. First mountain sled. Trying to figure out how adjustments effect handling. 5'6", 160 lbs with no gear. Currently have the rear track shock set to 10 3/8" as per factory specs. Front track shock is set with 4 threads showing, spring length 8 1/4". Front ski shocks have 7/8" threads showing.

Front track shock - increasing preload decreases ski pressure. Makes counter steering and carving easier. Increases the possibility of trenching. Decreasing preload increases ski pressure which decreases the approach angle and in turn helps with less trenching and better climbing ability for steeper terrain.

Rear track shock - increasing preload increases ski pressure to a point, lessens weight transfer, increasing climb on steeper terrain. Decreasing preload decreases ski pressure, increases weight transfer and helps get the sled up and on top of the snow.

Front Ski shocks - personal preference? Seems most like these set with as little preload as possible and still maintain feel.

Am I close or out in left field? Thanks in advance.

 

[gman086]

That's it Tommy - you got it! Front ski shocks really dependent on rider height/leverage and weight too. Lighter smaller riders will run less whereas heavy/tall riders can get away with more (and those that don't run the stabilizer bar will definitely need to crank up their ski shocks). I think one of the reasons some taller riders are getting away with zero FTS tension (in ALL conditions) is that they run so little ski shock pressure that they can get the sled over real easy. Personally I like to charge the moguls and prefer more FTS and FSS pressure to stay in control. It's all a balancing act.

Have FUN!

G MAN

 

[TommyF]

Gman, thanks. Plan on fine tuning the handling on my sled over the next few rides.

 

[HILLRMK155]

GREAT INFO!

just swapped a PRO skid in my dragon, already had PRO assault fss but now trying to get the best setup on my sled with new skid.

 

[littleredstroker]

Has anyone installed the heavier spring Polaris sells for the RTS. I am 250 with all gear on and am looking at installing it. I suspect in terms of overall spring length etc it would be set the same as the book specs, it just is heavier spring for the heavier load?

thoughts?

I just put in raptor Tripple rate springs..the 250#+ ones... i cannot get rid of the sag. its got about 5 inches of sag now as tight as you can get it w/o bind and with a new WE shick. stock had about 6.... I think thats a lot of my problem. I also bottom out all the flipping time. its getting old. ive tried about everything short of taking a coil spring out of a junk yard car and making it work..

 

[newfieassault]

Really like your comment. Just wondering how much preload on front ski shock(how much thread showing)Also what setting on clickers on fts and ski shock. Thanks

 

['77 Rider]

I'd like to put to bed some things that may be confusing to many in this thread...
The one size limiter strap is fine on the Pro as there is plenty of range for adjustment using both the FTS and RTS preload settings.
Increasing the FTS preload definitely REDUCES ski pressure. The FTS setting is NOT universal peeps! Snow conditions and rider weight AND height play a HUGE part in where that setting needs to be. I was bashed on the forum for suggesting the whole 1" threads showing by some MT "shop owner" saying I had no clue. Well guess what dude, I need a different setting than you. MT gets DRY powder and you're some 6'2" 300 lb behemoth! I ride Cascade CONCRETE and go 5'9" 175lbs.!

The deal is the shorter you are, the lower your c of g and the more help you need with reducing ski pressure to initiate a countersteer. This gets compounded by heavier snow and even more by being lighter weight and not sagging the rear of the suspension more. SO...
My rule of thumb is 1" threads showing for riders in heavy snow and under 5'9" height.
1/2" thread showing for taller riders in same snow.
Minimum preload (1 turn) for most riders in CO, MT, UT, WY type "dry" snow (you shouldn't go zero preload as the spring needs to stay in place when airborne). May need to increase for short/light riders but probably not beyond 1/2" threads showing depending on how light the snow is.
Rear shock with just enough preload to prevent harsh bottoming; dial in even more for days when climbing the real steeps like chutes and such. If super steep then you want minimum FTS preload and heavy RTS preload no matter what your body type is.
I've been tuning suspensions for a long time and will put these recommendations up any day against the "know-it-all-one-setting-for-everyone" shops.

Have FUN!

G MAN

Any thoughts on suspension setup on a SBA? I'm 5'10 180 pounds and find my SBA rides way to much like a trail sled.
I'm not sure on what the spring measurements are at but it is set at the middle of three settings on the limiter strap. Rear torsion springs are set to medium. Also should add that the skid is in the lower mounting hole.

 

[pulltype_polaris]

On my sba I had to tighten up the front track a bit to lighten up the skis. We don't get snow deep enough here in Saskatchewan to worry about trenching and to know if it really did trench worse. Better carving and more weight transfer for flat land playing.

 

['77 Rider]

On my sba I had to tighten up the front track a bit to lighten up the skis. We don't get snow deep enough here in Saskatchewan to worry about trenching and to know if it really did trench worse. Better carving and more weight transfer for flat land playing.

Where do you run your front limiter strap? Mine was set middle from dealership. It does ride good just more like a trail machine than anything else.

 

[DanielWeeks]

May I suggest going to the Skinz Protective Gear website, and watching their videos on suspension setups. It is really easy to understand, and gives some really great advice. Might give you a few pointers as well. I know at Carl's Cycle Sales we set up those sleds for a guy your size with the 250LB rear shock instead of the stock rear shock. Should help you out to go with that spring as well.

 

[Perk]

How are you guys setting up the front end shocks? Softer than the suggested setup or per the recommendations in the manual? My sway bar is in and I am narrowed (factory narrow). I am considering softening them up some.

 

[pulltype_polaris]

Where do you run your front limiter strap? Mine was set middle from dealership. It does ride good just more like a trail machine than anything else.

I have mine as loose as it'll go but never really noticed much

 

[Jaynelson]

Standard walkers or clickers?

On my clickers I have the ski shock springs almost full soft....a few turns tighter than the springs rattling kinda thing. 4 clicks from full soft on the clicker. These shocks would be super stiff on anything in the middle to stiff range of their spring settings IMO!

On my standard WE's I had the springs a little stiffer than that....kinda midway.

Sway bars in on both. BUT if you wanted to have the SB out, I believe with the clickers you could easily do so.....there is plenty of adjustment there.

 

[Perk]

Walkers - reading a lot of posts on here about the planted front end on the 13+ pros - just trying to figure it out on mine without disconnecting the sway bar. Have not tried loosening up the front pre-loads, but have narrowed it and played with the FTS and RTS.

Currently FTS at 4 threads, RTS set a little tighter than the manual recommends for my weight (210 lbs) Honestly, for me, my King Cat was more flickable than this sled - a lot more flickable.

 

[TommyF]

Sway bar connected, standard WE front shocks set as soft as possible with still keeping the springs in the top retainers on my 14 Pro. If I could go softer, I would.

 

[Jaynelson]

Walkers - reading a lot of posts on hear about the planted front end on the 13+ pros - just trying to figure it out on mine without disconnecting the sway bar. Have not tried loosening up the front pre-loads, but have narrowed it and played with the FTS and RTS.

Currently FTS at 4 threads, RTS set a little tighter than the manual recommends for my weight (210 lbs) Honestly, for me, my King Cat was more flickable than this sled - a lot more flickable.

Crank up the FTS to have roughly an inch of threads showing. Go softer on the ski shocks, a touch softer on the RTS. It will handle much differently.

Ski shocks won't change much of what you're feeling compared to the FTS. For reals.

 

[Perk]

thanks for the replies - I have tightened up the FTS about that much, but it pushed through the corners on the trails really bad and trenched more, so I went back. Maybe I will try it again...... really starting to think the sway bar needs to come out.