Factory track tension. really???

[pura vida]

So how many people have actually gotten out a 10lbs weight, hung it 16" from the rear axle and set the track tension as specified in the manual? I did and holly cats is that sucker tight! have about a 7/16 gap between track and hyfax which is what the manual says but this seems extremely tight. i sure don't have to worry about it ratcheting...

now i know that you don't want the track noodle loose and the track functions better at the proper tension. but what is the proper tension? i can feel the drag of the track when i get out of the throttle and i'm guessing i'll be going through more hyfax. this just seems like it is too tight, less efficient, and i am just using up extra HP?

or does the physics of the track under power change the equation so that it is most efficient at this tension?

does it matter that it is a powder claw and not the 5.1? i wouldn't think so.

has anyone found a tension that works better/more efficient than what the manual says? (since we all know polaris "always" is correct with everything they say!)

thanks

pv

 

[racerjb]

I know what you mean about the factory tightness. I have always just eye balled it in the past or just keeping tightening until it stops ratcheting. However, I decided to use the factory method for the first time last night. I just check mine on my Pro after a break in ride and I had about a 1" slack with the 10lbs weight. I tightened it up to .5". I did have some ratcheting so this should cure it.

Mountainhorse has some good theories about track tightness through his discussions with Camoplast, which I think he has posted before.

 

[gman086]

I saw that in the manual too - guitar string tight!!! I always use the two finger rule and it's never let me down yet (works out to be somewhere around 3/4" sag).

Have FUN!

G MAN

 

[GMCRMK]

I always use the two finger rule and it's never let me down yet G MAN

Ya, I learned that in college too. One finger = she's too tight
Three fingers = she's too loose

Two fingers is perfect!

 

[snopro_ac]

Ya, I learned that in college too. One finger = she's too tight
Three fingers = she's too loose

Two fingers is perfect!

lmao

 

[aadougie]

Check those tracks after the first 50-100 miles...they will get loose. And add a 15MM socket and open end wrench to your tool kit! We had to beg tools on the trail to tighten the track...

 

[pura vida]

Mountainhorse has some good theories about track tightness through his discussions with Camoplast, which I think he has posted before.

i'm familiar with most of his posts on the subject. just wondering if anyone has done any actual testing. i was thinking of letting it out to 5/8 or 3/4 to see how that does. but how can you really tell if that is going to be a gain or a loss on the hill? i bet even making the change on the hill it would be near impossible to tell the difference? has anyone checked track tension set my the factory prior to riding the sled? wonder how much it varies? i would bet a substantial amount.

 

[GoBigParts]

A lot of these rules I believe were developed in the flatlands where Studs are in heavy use. When you add studs to track thing about how much rotating weight you are adding. Those studs get slinging around inside the tunnel near heat exchanges you want your track fairly tight. They used to have a spring scale setting. You pull on the track with a spring scale to a certain weight and measure from the track clip to the hyfax.

Now for us who don't use studs I run mine fairly loose which extends hyfax life. I have an 08 RMK with the original hyfax and over 4000 miles (not sure the exact milage).

Usually with the sled sitting on the stand with no weight on the track I can see around 3/4"- 1" between the hyfax and the track. Or around 1-1.5 index fingers.

 

[Ron]

The track does loosen up a bit when you sit on the sled and the suspension drops. I haven't had a Polaris that "coasted" when you let off the throttle since the Edge series.
Jack at Carl's Cycle was a very successful racer and he believes in a tight track. There is still a group that believe in the loose track and even put on extro's so that they can run it loose. Conveyer belts and snowmobile belts work better tight IMO. As you gain speed the track "grows" rounder in the tunnel-this takes more power and can even hit the top of the tunnel. Lots of older sleds will have black marks in the top of the tunnel.
As I see it the tighter track has a major drawback because lubrication is critical or you will build heat and lose hyfax. No bogies, deep lug track...so scratchers down-sometimes when it looks OK without. I've been skeptical about the tight track but have had great results...just use the scratchers a lot more.
There is some science behind the Polaris spec it's too bad they don't address their reasoning.

 

[GoBigParts]

The track does loosen up a bit when you sit on the sled and the suspension drops. I haven't had a Polaris that "coasted" when you let off the throttle since the Edge series.
Jack at Carl's Cycle was a very successful racer and he believes in a tight track. There is still a group that believe in the loose track and even put on extro's so that they can run it loose. Conveyer belts and snowmobile belts work better tight IMO. As you gain speed the track "grows" rounder in the tunnel-this takes more power and can even hit the top of the tunnel. Lots of older sleds will have black marks in the top of the tunnel.
As I see it the tighter track has a major drawback because lubrication is critical or you will build heat and lose hyfax. No bogies, deep lug track...so scratchers down-sometimes when it looks OK without. I've been skeptical about the tight track but have had great results...just use the scratchers a lot more.
There is some science behind the Polaris spec it's too bad they don't address their reasoning.

Interesting. I never run mine to the point that it will ratchet.

 

[winter brew]

There is such a thing as too tight....and too loose. Some issues we've seen with tight tracks are overheating (puts more load on the engine just cruising compared to a easy spinning/loose track), hyfax melting, belt blowing issues from the added drag and of course lack of performance and bearing failure.
As long as it doesn't ratchet, slap the tunnel alot or have a big "bow" as it comes off the drivers.....a free-er spinning track is going to offer gains from what I have seen.
IMO a track should rotate when you drag the sled and have about 1" of free hang on a 155-163 length. Just another opinion

 

[Snodawg]

Ya, I learned that in college too. One finger = she's too tight
Three fingers = she's too loose

Two fingers is perfect!

You didn't learn this until college? Late Bloomer, uh?

 

[i'llDooit]

You didn't learn this until college? Late Bloomer, uh?

Shocker. 2 goo 1 poo.

 

[gman086]

Ya, I learned that in college too. One finger = she's too tight
Three fingers = she's too loose

Two fingers is perfect!

Like I said... never let me down!!!

G

 

[GMCRMK]

You didn't learn this until college? Late Bloomer, uh?

Better late than never. Actually I wasn't a late Bloomer though, I was a late Learner

 

[pura vida]

Ron, i agree with you conveyor belt analogy. i think it is the best way to look at it. i should call carl's and talk to them again. see if they are setting the track tension as specified in the manual. personally i've decided that is just too tight. i absolutely disagree with someone that runs extros in order to run a track super loose. there is a balance somewhere in between. the hard part is determining the most efficient tension. which is frustrating in a way b/c this would/is the easiest/significant adjustment and effect on power deliver to the snow that an individual could do. i don't think the sled/track should actually coast when you let off the gas but i don't think it should feel like you pulled the break either... thanks for all the opinions.

pv

 

[Clayton]

You can generally look and see when a track it too tight, and it will ratchet when it's too loose. I always tighten mine up just enough to get it to stop ratcheting regardless of what the book says.

 

[The Fourth Wolf]

I'm going to guess that factory specs on track tension are set by the legal department and not the engineering department.

 

[MORSNO]

This is my 5th season with my track tightened like the owners manual recommends. I've never had a problem with a dragging feeling or with highfax wear. I found that my track ratcheted quite a bit as it went through its initial stretching the first season and required tension adjustment often. I also agree with what Clayton said about tightening up enough to prevent ratcheting, which I found is close to the factory recommendation anyway.

 

[F-Bomb]

PV I COULD "SELL" YOU THE INFO! NOW I FIND THIS FUNNY. brap brap

awesome