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Remove case vacuum line and look for kink. Fuel pump next.
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Engine temp sensor?
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Also, a defective hi-low beam switch can mess with the stator voltage, which will then mess with the engine voltage. You can unplug the hi-low beam switch, to take it out of the system, just to see whether that helps. Other items to substitute with the same electrical item from another working sled, include the CDI box and the coil. Also, at the coil leads to the spark plugs, you can remove the spark plug connectors and clip off about 1/2" of the wire, and then hand screw the connector back on. The copper wires inside the connector, get brittle and lose their conductivity.
There are two nickel size clear plastic diaphragms in the fuel pump, that act as 1 way valves. They get rough on the side where they contact the aluminum, in a circular pattern around the outside edge of the diaphragm. After perhaps 2500 miles, they need to be flipped over so that the top smooth side is now in contact with the aluminum and makes a tight seal. Or you can buy a complete rebuilding kit on Ebay, which contains all of the other gaskets and diaphragms as well. The engine will run a lot smoother with this rebuild. Replacing one non-rebuilt 2500+ mile fuel pump with another non-rebuilt 2500+ mile fuel pump, will not help things.