Driven Clutch float on Jackshaft

[Mech Engr]

I finally got my brand new 3211115 belt and after cleaning it and the clutches and clutch compartment I installed the new belt and checked the belt sheave clerence and deflection. I noticed, however, that there was quite a bit of play (float) on the Team driven clutch on the jackshaft. I looked it up in the factory manual and found that it is supposed to have between .020 to .1". This kind of surprised me seeing all the other specs on belt/clutch related stuff being so important and with such small tolerances. Any way, mine was right at .1". Seems like a lot. It'd be nice to have it in the middle of the tolerance band instead of the edge of it. Is it relatively easy to reduce this float with a shim or?? I searched and couln't find anything on this specifically.

Thanks, John

 

[BIGGDAWG]

I finally got my brand new 3211115 belt and after cleaning it and the clutches and clutch compartment I installed the new belt and checked the belt sheave clerence and deflection. I noticed, however, that there was quite a bit of play (float) on the Team driven clutch on the jackshaft. I looked it up in the factory manual and found that it is supposed to have between .020 to .1". This kind of surprised me seeing all the other specs on belt/clutch related stuff being so important and with such small tolerances. Any way, mine was right at .1". Seems like a lot. It'd be nice to have it in the middle of the tolerance band instead of the edge of it. Is it relatively easy to reduce this float with a shim or?? I searched and couln't find anything on this specifically.

Thanks, John

most of us run more float there was some sort of bulletin i run mine at 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch it helps the clutches self align.

 

[winter brew]

I would go with as little float as possible, with the correct offset. The main benefit is to not side load the jackshaft bearing.
Some believe it allows the clutch to "float" into correct alignment.....sometimes that is true, but only when there is no load being applied to the clutch. If you are accelerating or decelerating the clutch will not likely slide on the jackshaft and if it is out of alignment, that is where it will remain until it reaches a "neutral" state.
Take the bolt out of your clutch, apply even a small amount of tortional load by hand and try to push or pull...it won't move.
It will self-align on a jackstand because there is no load applied. JMO-

 

[retiredpop]

You have a point winterbrew but to my way of thinking the clutch does not have to realign itself every time. I will assume what you say is true and the clutch won't align itself under torque. Now at some time in your ride there is no torque on the clutch when you aren't accelerating or decelerating and the clutch will float to an aligned position and it stays there. It is not like it gets pushed to one side or the other by a spring or anything when you stop. Therefore there is no need for the clutch to have to realign itself when you start out again so the amount of float is not really a factor and there is no right answer to the question.

 

[Mark's RMK]

Driven Clutch

Seems like it would cause wear on the jack shaft if it moving was a problem and I have seen no wear/looseness on my driven clutch. They don't make it very scientific with the thickness of the washers on the jackshaft or the 3/8 washers on the jackshaft bolt.

 

[slash]

CLUTCH FLOAT

Mine do always have NEVER had a problem..

 

[Kraven]

.020" to .030" FREE PLAY

I finally got my brand new 3211115 belt and after cleaning it and the clutches and clutch compartment I installed the new belt and checked the belt sheave clerence and deflection. I noticed, however, that there was quite a bit of play (float) on the Team driven clutch on the jackshaft. I looked it up in the factory manual and found that it is supposed to have between .020 to .1". This kind of surprised me seeing all the other specs on belt/clutch related stuff being so important and with such small tolerances. Any way, mine was right at .1". Seems like a lot. It'd be nice to have it in the middle of the tolerance band instead of the edge of it. Is it relatively easy to reduce this float with a shim or?? I searched and couln't find anything on this specifically.

Thanks, John

I run .020" to .030"

 

[miller tools]

clutch

I flot mine 1/8 to 3/16 have had no problem its your sled do what you wish

 

[Z-Man]

Mine is same as BigDawg and Miller Tools, set up by Polaris shop in Missoula.

 

[sled_guy]

Having the driven tight up against the bearing sideloads that bearing which it is not designed to have. It will cause the bearing to wear prematurely.

Having too much slack can cause the bearing to get pounded. As you go under and out of load, grabbing the break, slamming the throttle, jumping it off burms and so forth the clutch can move back and forth... if the distance is too great then the clutch will slam the bearing. I've seen it pound spacer washers apart when there was .25" and more.

It's all about a happy medium I suppose. For sure the most important thing is getting the drive and driven aligned correctly no matter if you are .05 or .15 inches of 'slop'.

sled_guy