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Dragon Tunnel options

Tried the search but not much shows up. Looking at tunnel options after I tweaked the rear of mine ever so slightly. I basically know Van Amburg and Fabcraft, any others out there? I was quoted $1100 for stock poo replacement. Was looking at the VE rail/rear bumper replacement option if anybody has any experience with VE let me know.

Only 750 miles on this sled (08 800 155) and the thing that angers me is that I rode my Edge much harder than the IQ and no tweaked tunnel or bent/sagging running boards. I'm not a fat boy either, I go 195-ish with gear..........WTF?!
 
Tried the search but not much shows up. Looking at tunnel options after I tweaked the rear of mine ever so slightly. I basically know Van Amburg and Fabcraft, any others out there? I was quoted $1100 for stock poo replacement. Was looking at the VE rail/rear bumper replacement option if anybody has any experience with VE let me know.

Only 750 miles on this sled (08 800 155) and the thing that angers me is that I rode my Edge much harder than the IQ and no tweaked tunnel or bent/sagging running boards. I'm not a fat boy either, I go 195-ish with gear..........WTF?!

uhmm...how about something like this?..you can even do it yourself..


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here is a thread with more info and pics...
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=189130
 
Tried the search but not much shows up. Looking at tunnel options after I tweaked the rear of mine ever so slightly. I basically know Van Amburg and Fabcraft, any others out there? I was quoted $1100 for stock poo replacement. Was looking at the VE rail/rear bumper replacement option if anybody has any experience with VE let me know.

Only 750 miles on this sled (08 800 155) and the thing that angers me is that I rode my Edge much harder than the IQ and no tweaked tunnel or bent/sagging running boards. I'm not a fat boy either, I go 195-ish with gear..........WTF?!

Absolute power and performance in alberta Canada
 
Tunnels just are not cheap! I've looked at VanAmburg, CR, Fabcraft, etc. You have to factor in the base price ($1600+) then add in a cooler for the tunnel and any finish you would want.

The Po replacement will probably be the cheapest. I can't imagine any of the aftermarkets are much lighter if at all (unless you do carbon fiber).
 
I would rather pay a few hundred bucks extra if I knew the aftermarket stuff was much stronger. Why go back to stock if it's as weak as it is. I wish I could do my own fab work, that does look nice. AK, how about doing another set in black for me.........:D. That is kinda like the VE rail/bumber kit I am looking at. Mine is not tweaked to bad just thinking about adding the VE kit to add some strength into it before it folds in half from trail moguls!!!!!!
 
I would rather pay a few hundred bucks extra if I knew the aftermarket stuff was much stronger. Why go back to stock if it's as weak as it is. I wish I could do my own fab work, that does look nice. AK, how about doing another set in black for me.........:D. That is kinda like the VE rail/bumber kit I am looking at. Mine is not tweaked to bad just thinking about adding the VE kit to add some strength into it before it folds in half from trail moguls!!!!!!

sulley you could do van ambergs or WRP's wide board kits and I can make you reinforcment sides..then just cut up your stock sides, rivit it all togeather and custom tunnel....I looked at doing van ambergs tunnel..by the time I got what I wanted, in color and to my door I was looking at close to 3 grand..and that didnt add my time doing it...board kits are what? 400-500 deleivered..about roughly the same for me to make some sides depending on how fancy you want to get...then powdercoat(about 100-140 for me to get them done)then figure in some solid rivits and odds and ends...shipping..might be looking at 1500.....then just assemble..mine I did a bunch onraised the rear of the boards 1.5 inches, redid the rail reinforcments..alot of grinding and smoothing..rear bumper fab, tail light moved...gas rack stuff....
 
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I have a VE rear bumper on mine and was going to do the entire sides, boards and rails from VE but am going to continue to thrash the stock tunnel and just get a whole VE Boondocker tunnel this summer. The sides, rails, etc addition to a stock tunnel are suppose to work very well and add a considerable amount of strength to the very weak stock tunnel. It is no surprise you bent it I have tweaked mine and by the end of the year I am sure it will be trash. Keep an eye on your running board rails too, they bend if you jump much.
 
Basically I have some sag in the rails and on the back of the left rail the small piece of aluminum has a wave in it. Then right behind where the rail attaches to the tunnel I could feel a slight bow inward. I could not find any other noticeable problems but will take to my dealer (Skagit Valley Polaris) to have it measured up and see how bad it is. I figured that the VE would do the trick but just don't know. I was thinking of getting something on now before I really tweak it and need the whole tunnel replaced. VE full tunnel is outa my price range but I don't want to put a weak stock one back on either.

I see the heavy duty brace where your rear suspension bolts up AK and that is a key point I think. I am pissed because I don't really jump, I probably have not been off the ground higher than 6 feet on it in all my 750miles. I may PM you for some more help AK. :beer;
 
Basically I have some sag in the rails and on the back of the left rail the small piece of aluminum has a wave in it. Then right behind where the rail attaches to the tunnel I could feel a slight bow inward. I could not find any other noticeable problems but will take to my dealer (Skagit Valley Polaris) to have it measured up and see how bad it is. I figured that the VE would do the trick but just don't know. I was thinking of getting something on now before I really tweak it and need the whole tunnel replaced. VE full tunnel is outa my price range but I don't want to put a weak stock one back on either.

I see the heavy duty brace where your rear suspension bolts up AK and that is a key point I think. I am pissed because I don't really jump, I probably have not been off the ground higher than 6 feet on it in all my 750miles. I may PM you for some more help AK. :beer;

more then happy to help out how I can sulley, I have buckled mine 3 times now(mines from pulling loaded sleds to my trapping cabin 50 miles from the road...didnt even know it was damaged this time till I pulled it down to do a drop and roll and install the camo-x 2.5 track, the tunnel was wowed between the frt and rear mounts...so figured alot easier to fix it now then out on a hill 80 miles from the road...my tunnel sides are made from full 1/4 in material..but they are very light..they weighed 6.5 pds ea after cutting(the stock rear steel suspension mounts pretty much make up for most of that weight..was surprised how heavy they were)overall mine probable gained about 8-10 pds over stock tunnel(I lost weight though since mine used the stock steel sled hitch bumper)..mine does go to the bulkhead, and it really firms up the tunnel and boards...
 
ive got a friend here locally that will set you up with a carbon fiber tunnel installed for right around 2500 if i remember right. drops 20 pounds off the sled!!
 
ive got a friend here locally that will set you up with a carbon fiber tunnel installed for right around 2500 if i remember right. drops 20 pounds off the sled!!

Don't know if it's same guy but he didn't have prices yet, if it gets to $2500 that is way outa my price range. Has the carbon fiber stuff held up? I have had carbon fiber batts and trailering arms.......batt snapped in half first time I used it but trailing arms on Edge worked well until I hammered a tree.

I understand I will gain a little weight for added strength but I don't mind. Stock accept Holz rear suspension. I can always drop a few pounds off my A$$.........HA or a can/pipe etc. I will get it measured up and see what needs to be done and get back to you AK. Thanks

Anybody know a good aluminum welder in western WA? If I add parts I may as well get it welded as I understand this would add to the strength???????
 
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Don't know if it's same guy but he didn't have prices yet, if it gets to $2500 that is way outa my price range. Has the carbon fiber stuff held up? I have had carbon fiber batts and trailering arms.......batt snapped in half first time I used it but trailing arms on Edge worked well until I hammered a tree.

I understand I will gain a little weight for added strength but I don't mind. Stock accept Holz rear suspension. I can always drop a few pounds off my A$$.........HA or a can/pipe etc. I will get it measured up and see what needs to be done and get back to you AK. Thanks

Anybody know a good aluminum welder in western WA? If I add parts I may as well get it welded as I understand this would add to the strength???????

Im not sure if it is the same guy or not, he works out of Chelan, Wa. It is a complete carbon tunnel, they are right around $1,800 for the tunnel, plus the cost of installation which is where a lot of the cost comes in, they are very time consuming. So far they are holding up amazingly well, better than stock ones IMO, they flex well but are still pretty rigid. Thats the route that I would go if I had the chance!
 
I noticed the tunnel is more of a 3 or 4 piece. Are the side panel/rails replaceable alone does anybody know? I didn't think so by looking at the Polaris parts fiche, thought the rear tunnel was basically one piece in the pic.
 
Just go see Dan at Skagit, he will have all the answers to any question you have. Skagit is the best dealer in the world, willing to work with you on anything. They have been nothing but great to me, I will never buy a sled from anyone else as long as they are around. Jesse
 
Hey, I'm the other guy! I am currently working on making the side and middle pieces of the dragon tunnel out of carbon fiber. They will be pretty much copies of the stock tunnel using the stock coolers. Hopefully this week I can have some available. I am also set up to make carbon tunnels for the 05 and 06 IQ chassis and carbon side panels that fit all the IQ's.
 
Tunnel Support Kit

AKSNOWRIDER,

After reading this thread is your tunnel fabrication just a rivet together kit from the inside or outside of the existing tunnel I assume? If so who's kit is it and where can one buy one? What does it cost and how long did it take you to install? Thanks your sled looks awesome!
 
AKSNOWRIDER,

After reading this thread is your tunnel fabrication just a rivet together kit from the inside or outside of the existing tunnel I assume? If so who's kit is it and where can one buy one? What does it cost and how long did it take you to install? Thanks your sled looks awesome!

I made mine, it consist of new sides,and boards welded togeather then rivited with solid rivits( and 3M panel adhesive) to the existing tunnel after cutting off all excess material...If I did it again I would rivit the boards(using either wrp or a vanamberg wide board kit)onto the sides I made after everything was powder coated, the reason is controling the warpage from welding...on mine I also raised the rear of the running boards 1.5 inches, my sides run into the bulkhead up front,are the mnts for all 4 skid bolts, and are the bumper mnts out back..there are all sorts of options..including material thickness..mine are a full 1/4 in...I built my buddy a set for his new XP that are just 1/8 in. and dont touch the stock boards,mnts, or bumper..weight wise the cutout uncoated sides alone weighed 6.5 pds ea. but the stock steel rear suspension mnts were a solid 3-4 pds ea...I lost weight since I eliminated the polaris steel hitch bumper....a stock sled would gain 1-2 pds with 1/4 in material..the strength difference is amazing..way stronger on boards and tunnel flex...
 
That rear waffle is almost always the results of a tail walking episode and believe it or not can also be from simply lifting a stuck sled by the rear bumper. Pretty darn common on this chassis and it doesn't take that much to wow em. You are correct in your concern because once one has the stress or fatigue going the second time you force it can be catastrophic and takes much less pressure to cause. Then again there are many many IQ RAWS running around with all kinds of wows and damage yet they keep on going.

Anyway...here are the facts. Wide boards will kill your deep snow performance so just be aware that the wider your running boards and the more hang up you have the more it drags in conditions over what your track can carry your sled on. Some guys don't care and want the benefit of more foot working room. That is fine if that is your goal but once again be aware that there is a huge performance difference between like vehicles in deep snow conditions if one has wide boards versus narrow (or stock width).

We have chromoly replacement bars (Better Bars) coming soon (I mean soon!) that are significantly stronger then the stock outer bars. Then you can also have custom Better Boards made (we have three thickness' that we work with) for your footbed that firms everything up in the stock configuration. Now none of that fixes your waffle by the rear suspension mounting plate or upper bar support. Obviously depending on the extent of your damage and exactly where it's at you may be able to fab a larger then the damaged support plate and DO NOT WELD..rivet it into place for the brace repair. The placement and design is important so that you don't have tearing down the road. Can't be in a movable location along the bottom or it gives up quickly. That is all the most economical and efficient repair that maintains stock like appearance, superior deep snow performance, superior strength, and will cost about $450 net as opposed to a start of $650 for kits or clear up to who knows how much for tunnels ect ect.

Sully can you take a good close up shot of your damage and post it?
 
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