The "08 mod will work on the '10. That's what i have done to mine, but the later rails need a different stop location ( abit down and forward not up and forward).
I haven't the time to answer the e-mails any more. Sorry, just too much work (friggin El Nino keeping the ground thawed) and the free time is for sledding.
I'll give a small blurb here now though, cause I'm here.
Nothing beats a revalve for ride. The Burant kit really works in stock positions (better than anything I've tried yet anyway) and a good deal.
To do the mod you WILL need a softer middle spring set-up (look up dual spring set-up from Holz, the best all round for powder or trail, or find a M-7 spring for powder only). On the Holz spring set you need to have a .9 inch cross over point or it will still act too stiff in powder, he sends it at .65".
The mod stands the shock up straighter and couples longer, allowing you to run less air pressure initially and not bottom. Better ride and more transfer (because of the lower start pressure). For less transfer (like you may need on a hill in certian snow) just bump up the pressure abit closer to stock and the longer coupling period keeps the skid flater. Way better than stock. Or, install a adjustable air canister (I use a Nextech) and decrease the volume a few turns and the spring rate stiffens quicker for the same effect.
It's a simple mod and if you understand what it does, it works. IMHO the stock air skid as delivered is a trencher and a bucking trail bronco, unless you find just the right air pressure for that spot on the mountian. Then it works just fine. It all depends on that small range of air pressure and where you put your feet.
Hope it helps. That's all the time I got today, time off and going sledding.
Geo
