Does the GEOMOD work on 2010 m8?
- Thread starter elvis1280
- Start date
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elvis1280
Well-known member
I dont know 100% but i think it is for the float skid, the 08's just had a lot more beef in the rails and now they have cut so much material out. but the measurments still work, just want to hear from someone who knows it works or not
2008 yes.. 2009 and 2010 no...
Forgot to add that I did it to my 08 M-8 and while it did help some the biggest improvement came from Andy from GSR revalving all four shocks.
Best $130 I spent..
Best $130 I spent..
Geo did two different relocations, one that relocated where the torsion spring slider was located on the 07's, and another one that relocated where the rear skid mounts attached on the drop down on 08 & newer. I can think of NO reason that the one intended for the float skid would not work on 09 & 010, the location or the rear bolts has not changed.
The float one moved the bolts forward & down slightly I believe? Can't remember.
The float one moved the bolts forward & down slightly I believe? Can't remember.
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elvis1280
Well-known member
Thats the answer i was looking for, thank you backcountry. i could see no difference in the 08's and wondered why it would not work? i think that having to run 140+ psi in the rear means something can be changed? the shock is not being used to it potential having to be maxed
Some keywords for future searching:
geomod, geo mod, skid, suspension, float, swingarm, bracket
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=57103
geomod, geo mod, skid, suspension, float, swingarm, bracket
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=57103
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elvis1280
Well-known member
i already read that entire post. i dont waste peoples time and i do my studying. nothing on 2010?
Dude.........chill out....he was just trying to help. You don't have to get your panties in a knot over it......just say you already read the posts. Many times people ask a question without searching. Obviously you did........but you don't need to rub a guys nose in it for helping. Sorry.......But he wasn't trying to insult you......just trying to help. Be patient....you will get your answers.
Dave
this mod was built to get more tranfer, on my 09 it transfer more than needed, skis 2 ft in the air when in the throttle, I don't think it would be beneficial. But maybe its just me. Now a shock revalve is a huge improvement and I still run 150+ in the rear. its just how the work any less than 140 and you will just start trenching more.
wyo, I think a lot of that is because of the higher HP machines & what we weigh.
I think if we were, for example, talking about a 140 lb rider with a 150hp M8 the situation with transfer would be a different story.
btw, 140-150 may be what fox calls maxxed out, but I know bigger guys running 180 & better with no issues. Find the proper sag, don't worry about the number.
I think if we were, for example, talking about a 140 lb rider with a 150hp M8 the situation with transfer would be a different story.
btw, 140-150 may be what fox calls maxxed out, but I know bigger guys running 180 & better with no issues. Find the proper sag, don't worry about the number.
If you had done your research you would know that the part numbers for the suspension components are all the same for the years your concerned about, at that point we can all reasonably assume that the geometry is the same from one year to the next. The only variable I can see is the slide rails, but as far as I can tell the geometry remains the same. Or, since nobodys talking about it, you could just try it youself, and let us know if it works or not.
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I don't understand why folks are getting pissy in this thread, but it's confusing to people when a few of us say they're the same, but then a few more come on & say "2008 yes.. 2009 and 2010 no.." a simple change in valving from one year to the next may not be reflected in the part # but could make a big difference. Obviously there are a number of people that feel there is a difference. I've had at least one of each year sled & have not seen this difference myself.
The mounting locations from 08-010 I'm 99.9% sure have stayed in the same spot, so I'm pretty sure we're talking apples to apples that they're going to respond to the mod the same way. The nice thing is, you can always go back to the stock location, it is a completely reversible mod.
Of course I may be full of poo, cause I HAVE NOT done my research to be sure all locations haven't changed 3mm one way or another.
I am this guy.ha..I weigh just a hair over 140 lbs, and have an 08 m8 with the 09-10 rear end/powerclaw that is tuned up to about 155ish hp. I feel like I have plenty of power, and in the meadows it flat rips, but as soon as we start climbing it treches something wicked. Skid is in the stock hole in front, and upper hole in the rear. I can't climb with it for chit...i can spank it on the hill with my stock m7 with a flipped/straightened A20..I'm also at a loss on what to do
I am this guy.ha..I weigh just a hair over 140 lbs, and have an 08 m8 with the 09-10 rear end/powerclaw that is tuned up to about 155ish hp. I feel like I have plenty of power, and in the meadows it flat rips, but as soon as we start climbing it treches something wicked. Skid is in the stock hole in front, and upper hole in the rear. I can't climb with it for chit...i can spank it on the hill with my stock m7 with a flipped/straightened A20..I'm also at a loss on what to do
Are you getting too much ski lift on climbs?
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geo
Well-known member
The "08 mod will work on the '10. That's what i have done to mine, but the later rails need a different stop location ( abit down and forward not up and forward).
I haven't the time to answer the e-mails any more. Sorry, just too much work (friggin El Nino keeping the ground thawed) and the free time is for sledding.
I'll give a small blurb here now though, cause I'm here.
Nothing beats a revalve for ride. The Burant kit really works in stock positions (better than anything I've tried yet anyway) and a good deal.
To do the mod you WILL need a softer middle spring set-up (look up dual spring set-up from Holz, the best all round for powder or trail, or find a M-7 spring for powder only). On the Holz spring set you need to have a .9 inch cross over point or it will still act too stiff in powder, he sends it at .65".
The mod stands the shock up straighter and couples longer, allowing you to run less air pressure initially and not bottom. Better ride and more transfer (because of the lower start pressure). For less transfer (like you may need on a hill in certian snow) just bump up the pressure abit closer to stock and the longer coupling period keeps the skid flater. Way better than stock. Or, install a adjustable air canister (I use a Nextech) and decrease the volume a few turns and the spring rate stiffens quicker for the same effect.
It's a simple mod and if you understand what it does, it works. IMHO the stock air skid as delivered is a trencher and a bucking trail bronco, unless you find just the right air pressure for that spot on the mountian. Then it works just fine. It all depends on that small range of air pressure and where you put your feet.
Hope it helps. That's all the time I got today, time off and going sledding.
Geo
I haven't the time to answer the e-mails any more. Sorry, just too much work (friggin El Nino keeping the ground thawed) and the free time is for sledding.
I'll give a small blurb here now though, cause I'm here.
Nothing beats a revalve for ride. The Burant kit really works in stock positions (better than anything I've tried yet anyway) and a good deal.
To do the mod you WILL need a softer middle spring set-up (look up dual spring set-up from Holz, the best all round for powder or trail, or find a M-7 spring for powder only). On the Holz spring set you need to have a .9 inch cross over point or it will still act too stiff in powder, he sends it at .65".
The mod stands the shock up straighter and couples longer, allowing you to run less air pressure initially and not bottom. Better ride and more transfer (because of the lower start pressure). For less transfer (like you may need on a hill in certian snow) just bump up the pressure abit closer to stock and the longer coupling period keeps the skid flater. Way better than stock. Or, install a adjustable air canister (I use a Nextech) and decrease the volume a few turns and the spring rate stiffens quicker for the same effect.
It's a simple mod and if you understand what it does, it works. IMHO the stock air skid as delivered is a trencher and a bucking trail bronco, unless you find just the right air pressure for that spot on the mountian. Then it works just fine. It all depends on that small range of air pressure and where you put your feet.
Hope it helps. That's all the time I got today, time off and going sledding.
Geo
Definately not, I have hardly any ski lift on climbs, or any other time for that matter...limiter straps are loose as they go. It hardly trackstands ever actually...which is fine. I'd rather it get on the snow and climb. but both would be nice
but i understand that you cant have the best of both worlds...just not sure what to do with it anymore..I thought the PC would be the cure..it helped..but still trenches bad in all snow conditions. I dont mean to highjack this thread at all...just stating my case
Definately not, I have hardly any ski lift on climbs, or any other time for that matter...limiter straps are loose as they go. It hardly trackstands ever actually...which is fine. I'd rather it get on the snow and climb. but both would be nice
the one thing to try for a quick solution would be to slightly tighten the front shock, and drop a touch of air from the rear shock.
Next thing I would try is dropping the front skid mounting point ( very easy, the hole is already there on the inside) or doing goe's mod.
Any of these three will help, to differing degrees. I've done the front mount move on a couple sleds & have been very happy with it. We find that it works contrary to what would be intuitive, we felt it would make the sled plow, but it seems to help them plane out on top quicker. It also helps transfer a bit.
