DiscoDans mid-season engine build
- Thread starter Danbot
- Start date
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Danbot
Well-known member
It's a little bit of a hack job, but you can see in the top pic in my last post I made a little bracket to hold the cross shaft lube brass fitting in place. All I had for scraps was some perforated tin, but it's plenty stiff enough to serve this purpose.
I almost forgot how difficult the wrist pin clips are. It's unbelievable how deep in the piston they sit, that was surely the biggest struggle with this job. Second place goes to spreading the 3bond evenly and tidy, ended up using my fingers in the end.
I almost forgot how difficult the wrist pin clips are. It's unbelievable how deep in the piston they sit, that was surely the biggest struggle with this job. Second place goes to spreading the 3bond evenly and tidy, ended up using my fingers in the end.
Where and why did you use 3 bond?
H
High Velocity
Well-known member
LUBA, that's what you seal the mating surfaces of crankcase halves with.
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Danbot
Well-known member
You betcha Ken, thanks. If anyone in my area needs 3bond, I have enough to do a hundred bottom ends!
A nice surprize yesterday when I stopped by the industrial supply store to replace my grade 8 motor mounting hardware.
I gave dude my list, and he happily went about collecting the different bolts I needed. After he came back to the counter with the collection, and started punching it into his computer.... he paused and said "screw it, the paperwork is worth more than the bolts" and sent me on my way free of charge. Thanks mystery guy at Gregg's Distributing!
A nice surprize yesterday when I stopped by the industrial supply store to replace my grade 8 motor mounting hardware.
I gave dude my list, and he happily went about collecting the different bolts I needed. After he came back to the counter with the collection, and started punching it into his computer.... he paused and said "screw it, the paperwork is worth more than the bolts" and sent me on my way free of charge. Thanks mystery guy at Gregg's Distributing!
D
Danbot
Well-known member
The engine is in and running, took me 3 hours to install it.
Started on the second pull after I primed the fuel pump, idles nice, and sounds good! I didn't have a coat hanger to bleed the oil pump, or any extra oil for the tank so I stopped for the time being.
I'll get back to it when I have rested... just got off night shifts this morning and I'm like a zombie.
Started on the second pull after I primed the fuel pump, idles nice, and sounds good! I didn't have a coat hanger to bleed the oil pump, or any extra oil for the tank so I stopped for the time being.
I'll get back to it when I have rested... just got off night shifts this morning and I'm like a zombie.
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Danbot
Well-known member
Thanks man, it feels good!
I`m just waiting for daylight and I`ll go finish up. Funny how the neighbors don't appreciate my noisy 900 running on a stand at 8am.
We haven't had fresh snow in weeks and what is there is getting icy and hard, but I should be able to get out for some break-in riding today.
I`m just waiting for daylight and I`ll go finish up. Funny how the neighbors don't appreciate my noisy 900 running on a stand at 8am.
We haven't had fresh snow in weeks and what is there is getting icy and hard, but I should be able to get out for some break-in riding today.
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Danbot
Well-known member
Got out for a longer ride yesterday, my 900 is pulling like a tractor again. In fact, it's probably running better than it ever has.
If anyone is about to do en engine job and reading this, a few things stick out in my mind for pointers.
The larger hose that goes from the water pump to the coolant bottle: Make sure you connect it, and fasten the hose clamp before installing the motor mount bolts, it's a very tight spot once the engine is bolted in. Much easier to do while you can still tilt the engine forward a bit.
Wiring wiring wiring: If your engine is out, this is your golden opportunity to straighten out a Polaris mess. Thoroughly inspect the whole harness, and carefully re-route the harness so it wont rub on anything or get pinched anywhere. Also, don't get carried away tightening your zip ties, the wires are very fragile. Taking your time here will pay off. I went as far as to seal up any un-used connectors (there are lots) with clear marine silicone. I had my main harness in and out 4 times before I was happy with it's placement.
Cross shaft lube hose This is the hose that starts about half way down the oil tank on the engine side and is routed down between the cylinders to a brass fitting on the front of the engine, just above the oil pump. These fittings are famous for working their way out of place and can leak, and prevent proper lube to your cross shaft. Last year I simply cleaned the area, and applied high temp silicone around the fitting... this wasn't enough, it still managed to come loose and leak. This year I took some scrap metal and made a little bracket to hold it in place. I used to closest bolt on the mag side reed cage to mount my bracket.
Of course the other things that are well documented in the stickies: check motor mounts in a vice, replace all motor mounting hardware with grade 8, clutch balancing and maintenance, replace your oiler cable with a FBF unit or at least add a helper spring.
Hope this helps someone down the line. These 900's aren't really that bad to get running well with a little $ and time. Polaris was too quick to remove the 700 and 900 from their line-up in my humble opinion. I look forward to the day that they release a big block to us again.
Dan
If anyone is about to do en engine job and reading this, a few things stick out in my mind for pointers.
The larger hose that goes from the water pump to the coolant bottle: Make sure you connect it, and fasten the hose clamp before installing the motor mount bolts, it's a very tight spot once the engine is bolted in. Much easier to do while you can still tilt the engine forward a bit.
Wiring wiring wiring: If your engine is out, this is your golden opportunity to straighten out a Polaris mess. Thoroughly inspect the whole harness, and carefully re-route the harness so it wont rub on anything or get pinched anywhere. Also, don't get carried away tightening your zip ties, the wires are very fragile. Taking your time here will pay off. I went as far as to seal up any un-used connectors (there are lots) with clear marine silicone. I had my main harness in and out 4 times before I was happy with it's placement.
Cross shaft lube hose This is the hose that starts about half way down the oil tank on the engine side and is routed down between the cylinders to a brass fitting on the front of the engine, just above the oil pump. These fittings are famous for working their way out of place and can leak, and prevent proper lube to your cross shaft. Last year I simply cleaned the area, and applied high temp silicone around the fitting... this wasn't enough, it still managed to come loose and leak. This year I took some scrap metal and made a little bracket to hold it in place. I used to closest bolt on the mag side reed cage to mount my bracket.
Of course the other things that are well documented in the stickies: check motor mounts in a vice, replace all motor mounting hardware with grade 8, clutch balancing and maintenance, replace your oiler cable with a FBF unit or at least add a helper spring.
Hope this helps someone down the line. These 900's aren't really that bad to get running well with a little $ and time. Polaris was too quick to remove the 700 and 900 from their line-up in my humble opinion. I look forward to the day that they release a big block to us again.
Dan
****The larger hose that goes from the water pump to the coolant bottle: Make sure you connect it, and fasten the hose clamp before installing the motor mount bolts, it's a very tight spot once the engine is bolted in. Much easier to do while you can still tilt the engine forward a bit.****
That hose was a pita to get off to begin with, did you leave one jug off to get it back on? ('05)
That hose was a pita to get off to begin with, did you leave one jug off to get it back on? ('05)
it was kinda of a pain for me as well. but i just reached in from the fuel tank area and worked the hose on (with ECU OUT) and then used some long needle nose pliers for the hose clamp..that was much harder then installing the hose, lol...but i have done this about 5x and worked everytime, but patience is key..
great work Dan..glad to see your up and rolling...
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Danbot
Well-known member
I have an 06 4 injector so I didn't have that option, the hose slid on ok like Sean mentioned, it was getting the clamp to slide down into place that was difficult. I think next time I will replace it with a gear clamp.
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Danbot
Well-known member
Thanks Sean, I was out again today. Found some good deep pow on cutlines, and pipelines and she continues to pull like a beast. The only thing that has surfaced is my idle is a bit high now that the engine is breaking in. I'll double check TPS voltage at idle, but probably just a small adjustment to the idle screw. Plugs look great, a little oily from the extra in the tank. Next weekend were going into the BC backcountry for some alpine fun!
Finger in the air 'eh! LOL! Get a pic!
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