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Corking your hand warmers

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I used the 1/16" thick 3/4" wide adhesive backed cork on mine. Worked super. Since I put the RSI heaters on that go over the bar hooks, I wrapped clear down to insulate the whole heater. Bad part is, it comes in a 100' roll. 95' of spare cork now on the shelf.
 
FEL 3023

It is part of there gasket material line of Fel-Pro

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...sket+material_-1_1529&keyword=gasket+material

Cheers
Shawn

Just for an update the FEL 3023 isn't your traditional Cork and Rubber material like with the doo grips. I just took it out of the package tonight and it is more like a flexiable chemical treated cardboard. So I decided to give it a shot, as I am just looking for an insulator against the aluminum. It comes at 1/32 and 1/64. From what I read online, briefly it is what they make carborator gasket material out of. I cut the cork to shape, spraid the 3M 77 adhesive on both the bars and cork, let it tack up for about 15 seconds then applied into place and locked them in with about 8 tie wraps per handle. I will let that sit overnight. I am then going to reapply the heater elements with the adhesive tomorrow let it sit over night with tie wraps then put heat shrink over that. I hope that will be the trick.

Cheers
Shawn
 
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Just for an update the FEL 3023 isn't your traditional Cork and Rubber material like with the doo grips. I just took it out of the package tonight and it is more like a flexiable chemical treated cardboard. So I decided to give it a shot, as I am just looking for an insulator against the aluminum. It comes at 1/32 and 1/64. From what I read online, briefly it is what they make carborator gasket material out of. I cut the cork to shape, spraid the 3M 77 adhesive on both the bars and cork, let it tack up for about 15 seconds then applied into place and locked them in with about 8 tie wraps per handle. I will let that sit overnight. I am then going to reapply the heater elements with the adhesive tomorrow let it sit over night with tie wraps then put heat shrink over that. I hope that will be the trick.

Cheers
Shawn

Won't the heat shink add more thickness and is it needed?
 
Won't the heat shink add more thickness and is it needed?

With the 1/32 cork and about 1/64 with the heat shrink I will be just shy of 1/16 which is thickness of the Doo cork kit. I don't mind having a slightly larger diameter grip. I also like the idea of protecting the heater element from the grips moving with time and being able to change grips, reapply them if they get loose with out effecting the heater element. As of now it is more of a experiment that I read other people had success with. I can always go back to stock if needed.
 
Love my corked grips on my protapers. I used the stock heater elements and the ski-doo cork. They barely ever get turned on high anymore they are so hot.
 
We have our heaters with the oem Polaris plastic connector. http://www.rsiracing.com/GRIP-HEATERS-WITH-STOCK-POLARIS-CONNECTORS_p_80.html

You do not need cork with our heaters even with aluminum handlebars. Hotter overall and hotter faster. Cork makes the grip diameter too large for most people.
Thank you,
RSi

Interesting you say this because I do use your aluminum Burandt bars and heaters. On really cold days, corking them with the ski doo cork made a big difference in keeping the heat in. Your heaters are hotter than stock, but the aluminum still zaps heat out when it's negative temps. I really don't notice the extra thickness on the cork, but my hands are pretty big.
 
Word of caution on using the shrink tubing over the heater element. It worked very well for the first season on mine where it was able to pull all the creases in the element membrane down nice and snug, it has come loose now. I am getting ready to do pre-season work on the sled and the grip comes loose now between the shrink tubing and the element. I will spray some glue on then shrink some new 1" tubing down on it to stay in place better, then install the grips back over the tubing. Wish I would have glued the shrink tubing on first, but it was good and tight this time last year when I did it.
 
Just for an update the FEL 3023 isn't your traditional Cork and Rubber material like with the doo grips. I just took it out of the package tonight and it is more like a flexiable chemical treated cardboard. So I decided to give it a shot, as I am just looking for an insulator against the aluminum. It comes at 1/32 and 1/64. From what I read online, briefly it is what they make carborator gasket material out of. I cut the cork to shape, spraid the 3M 77 adhesive on both the bars and cork, let it tack up for about 15 seconds then applied into place and locked them in with about 8 tie wraps per handle. I will let that sit overnight. I am then going to reapply the heater elements with the adhesive tomorrow let it sit over night with tie wraps then put heat shrink over that. I hope that will be the trick.

Cheers
Shawn

Update:

The 3M 77 Adhesive doesn't cut it with the stock bars (it's a common spray adhesive from HD). If you have looked at the stock bars they are polished or shiny on the end's where the grips play. Tonight, after letting the adhesive set with the cork on the bars overnight, I then applied the heater elements over the cork with the 3M adhesive, let it set for 30 minutes then put on the heat shrink. I noticed after putting on the heat shrink I had play on the cork over the bars. I attempted to put on the grips with hair spray, with 125 PSI of Air and everything started to shift. The weak point was very obvious, the 3M 77 didn't stick to the bars enough.

Having said that I was able to remove the heater elements from the cork with much more effort than the bars, but a lot less effort than removing the stock heater elements from the aluminum bars. I will not be using that adhesive during any step of this process going forward nor would recommend it for long term use. 3M has so many cool products I am positive they have the right product for each step of this process.

Looking forward I am leaning to trying the ski-doo 1/16 cork with doo XP grips cut down. After trying to install the stock Pro grips over 1/32 cork and less than 1/64 of heat shrink I think the fit is too tight as of now (It was a pain trying to get it on beyond half way) . I looked at a XP grip I had in the shop and the ID of the grip over 7/8ths and 1/16 cork is larger than the stock Pro grip.

Also as the poster above indicated, I think with the larger heat shrink it might become too hard and slick after the heat cycle of shrinking and might not keep a firm surface for the grips or elements to stick to overtime without an adhesive ie glue, basically defeating some of the advantages of it.

I feel like I am going back to what is proven, but wanted to share the journey as a way to add value to the site. I will keep you posted, just don't follow my steps until I give it a go. :)
 
i spray foam in the handel bars of all my toys ...works great.... even my 1984 honda trx :)

I looked at that option, but with the bar hooks being inserted into the Pro-Taper bars, the foam would only insulate the first 1" or so of the bar next to the controls. That is why I went with the cork.
 
Just got back from a few days riding in the Mccall Idaho area. It was in the teens, and just before the trip I corked my grips. The best thing I have done to this sled so far! I could not run them on high even going at a pretty good clip down a groomed road. I could just feel a little warmth on high before corking them. Do it guys if you want warm/hot hands!
 
It's not even close, try them both like many of us have and you'll experience the difference.
 
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