Corking your hand warmers

[volcano buster]

I just got my 100' roll of cork. I'm hoping that's enough.

Now I may need some replacement grips to cover everything up.

 

[snowrider 151]

Where did the Post go about corking your hand warmers?

I know I saw it and I do not remember where. Some help PLEASE. OLD GUY

 

[wjl]

search = cork = http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=328158&highlight=cork

 

[06redrevx]

I bought the kit from Ski Doo for $6.50, and it already has the adhesive back.
It is cut perfectly for the bar diameter.
Simply peel and stick. Still have to glue the Warmers on tho

Great improvement over stock!

 

[sasky]

Skidoo cork wrap

I used the doo cork underneath my RSI grip heaters and it worked great. Best part was the cork was pre trimmed with an adhesive backing and only a few bucks each.

 

[Fast_XC]

Does anyone have the Doo part #?

 

[mountainhorse]

Doo part number

506152360


Sold by the piece (1 bar requires 2)

.

 

[pura vida]

I used the same thing frontierfire.

Glad to share, hope it helps.
On the fatter grip note...

ODI OURY lock on grips will NOT fit over the bars and the handwarmers!
They have a solid sleeve underneath the soft rubber outer grip that will likely destroy your handwarmers if you try to make it work.

mostly true, but you can get them to fit. i've ran odi lock on grips with hand warmers on my last two sleds. you have to "hone" out the ID of both the locks and the plastic to the point where the plastic gets really thin and can break pretty easy during install. the bigger issue is the length of the odi lock ons as they are too long to fit onto the stock bars. fwiw.

pv

 

[gman086]

Would using a rubber material work better than cork, especially for durability?

Actually a thin application of electrical tape is all that is needed to insulate the heater elements from aluminum bars. Fly recommends this for their bars as does RSI. The critical point is right under the soldered part where the wires connect and that's where RSI says is the only place you need to use the tape. Works awesome - no need for cork with their high output bar heaters. So... unless you have large hands and want a thicker grip, cork is unnecessary and that's the rest of the story.

Have FUN!

G MAN

 

[mountainhorse]

Gman,

I do agree that the cork can make the grips a bit thicker... that is personal preference regardless of hand size.

Wade (RSI) says to tape under the soldered points on the heater film in order to reduce the chance of shorting.

I've tried the electrical tape...and the heavy plumbing tape as well as nothing.. and cork...From my direct experience... the corked works the best out of these options for keeping heat in the grips.

Also, the adhesive on electrical tape becomes soft on "med" or "hi" and allows the grip to migrate too much for my own tastes.

Now, I've also used the gold thermal film from Thermal protection inc... BY FAR the best and it is ultra-thin and self adhesive...same stuff used in F1 and NASCAR for thermal protection... but that is something that many dont have at the local NAPA store.

An insulant between the heater film and the bars will make any setup more efficient IMO.

In the end... it is all personal preference... Some will have their bar heaters "off" while others in the same group with the same sled will have theirs on "hi"... Diff strokes for diff folks.


I install grips "dry" (no glue, no soap) and have had Zero grip-movement issues.
See this post.
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=287733


.

 

[frontierfire]

Yea I tried the electrical tape also before I corked and the tape got to hot and grips wouldnt stay in place

 

[gman086]

Yea I tried the electrical tape also before I corked and the tape got to hot and grips wouldnt stay in place

I'm pretty sure that's why RSI says to only use it under the soldered part where your hands are not usually at so no issues with grips moving.

Cheers,

G

 

[FCR112]

mostly true, but you can get them to fit. i've ran odi lock on grips with hand warmers on my last two sleds. you have to "hone" out the ID of both the locks and the plastic to the point where the plastic gets really thin and can break pretty easy during install. the bigger issue is the length of the odi lock ons as they are too long to fit onto the stock bars. fwiw.

pv

I'm not sure what your last 2 sleds were but if someone were to take your advice and try to "hone" out the inside they may have that issue that mtnhorse was concerned about as far as throttle flipper clearance, have you used them on a pro, if so maybe you can answer that? By simply loosening up the controls and sliding them inboard there looked to be enough room length wise on the 2012 pro tapers.

The cork insulates quite a bit better than a layer of electrical tape, not even close on these aluminum bars in my experience.

Sweet find on the skidoo parts guys! I'd have used those had I known about them. Either way it was pretty easy and well worth it.

 

[likkerpig]

Did some looking and the 3m 77 adhesive is good to about 150*. The 3m 90 adhesive is good to about 250*.

Would the higher heat range 90 adhesive be better suited for the grips?

 

[FCR112]

Did some looking and the 3m 77 adhesive is good to about 150*. The 3m 90 adhesive is good to about 250*.

Would the higher heat range 90 adhesive be better suited for the grips?

I used this which had been sitting in my garage for about 5 yearsWorked perfectly

 

[06redrevx]

I used this which had been sitting in my garage for about 5 yearsWorked perfectly

Exactly what I used! Cheap and worked good

 

[pura vida]

I'm not sure what your last 2 sleds were but if someone were to take your advice and try to "hone" out the inside they may have that issue that mtnhorse was concerned about as far as throttle flipper clearance, have you used them on a pro, if so maybe you can answer that? By simply loosening up the controls and sliding them inboard there looked to be enough room length wise on the 2012 pro tapers.

yes, if you use lock on grips you also need to grind the inside clamp so your thumb flipper doesn't stick. you might be correct on the 13 pro's now that they have separated the kill switch from the throttle assembly. on my 09 dragon and 11 pro i changed out bars. you "should" be ok on the brake side but it is going to be tight, if it fits, on the throttle side. as with anything, it "can" be done and that was really my point. if it is worth the effort and time spent is entirely up to the individual. fwiw, i'm changing grips this year but not going to the effort of putting on lock-ons. i just really don't like the oem grip as they get particularly slick if you get snow on them or your gloves. this is most common on the really wet heavy days. drier pow doesn't cause as much of an issue. normally.

pv

 

[gman086]

The cork insulates quite a bit better than a layer of electrical tape, not even close on these aluminum bars in my experience.

I never said it was as good, just that it was adequate, but I WILL throw this out there...
Why bother corking if you buy the high output RSI heaters??? They cost the same as the weak stock ones (that do need cork) and I really can't imagine anyone needing hotter grip heaters than what those put out if you do it right with a single band of tape under the solder!

Have FUN!

G MAN

 

[snowrider 151]

3m90 or 3m80

Which would be the best for the job?

 

[frontierfire]

either will work 90 is stronger I used what I had left over I think it is 3M 75.