CMX belt drive on new pro

[KMOD]

Looks like my bad. Maybe it's the Kmod or M10 that moves back? That means I get to do a 3" Extreme this summer with a belt on my beater without drilling 4 extra holes.

The K MOD turn key skid will bolt into the original front arm mounting location with the CMX drive, the rails are cut for 8 tooth drivers and anti stab kit. The rear arm mounts into the new location drilled into the drop bracket.
We have several of these combos in the field with 3'' tracks.
Thanks, Kevin

 

[Xcelerated performance]

If you are planning on doing the CMX belt drive with 8 tooth drivers and the kmod. You just have to tell Kevin what you are doing and he will have it so you don't have to make any mods when you get it home. I'm running the CMX, kmod and 3" extreme the only drilling is on the drop brackets at the rear. Everything was an easy straight forward install. Both the CMX belt drive and kmod are awesome high quality mods, unlike some of the other mods I have done.

 

[mountainhorse]

Want to learn.

The K MOD turn key skid will bolt into the original front arm mounting location with the CMX drive, the rails are cut for 8 tooth drivers and anti stab kit. The rear arm mounts into the new location drilled into the drop bracket.
We have several of these combos in the field with 3'' tracks.
Thanks, Kevin

Kevin....Sincere question... no smart azz intent...trying to learn here... and I have respect for your products and Marks too.

How can a track that is moved down .82" closer to the front arm still clear the drive nubs on the front swing arm upper cross-shaft-tube on any suspension with the cross tube/shaft mounted in the stock RMK location?

Does it ride full time on the small idlers of the front-upper swing arm cross tube?

Do you have any pix of the inside of the track at the front swing arm upper cross shaft?




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[Kcjepperson]

My track comes in contact with the little loops on the upper from arm as well as the shock tower, I am running the mountain tamer timbersled skid. If I ran a 9 tooth driver would that help get the track off the cross bar, I would rather do that than try and relocate the skid. I think I have the clearance with the peak 2.5 track and have the cmx belt drive. Any ideas?

 

[m1kflyingtiger]

I'd think it would clear, but also it would be less resistance as far as a tight bend around the drivers, more contact area for the drivers, and a better approach angle.

 

[assault11]

Kevin....Sincere question... no smart azz intent...trying to learn here... and I have respect for your products and Marks too.

How can a track that is moved down .82" closer to the front arm still clear the drive nubs on the front swing arm upper cross-shaft-tube on any suspension with the cross tube/shaft mounted in the stock RMK location?

Does it ride full time on the small idlers of the front-upper swing arm cross tube?

Do you have any pix of the inside of the track at the front swing arm upper cross shaft?




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I'm running a kmod and I have an avid case 1" down 1" back. And I have The skid in the stock location, I had to cut 1/2 inch off the tips of the rails. Running 8 tooth drivers and it handles awesome. Way better than when the skid was down and back. It still has lots of clearance

 

[assault11]

And it doesn't contact the swing arm

 

[Kcjepperson]

Does anyone have a timbersled skid that has figured out how to make it work without having to mount the front arm in a lower position, I would think lowering the front arm would steepen your approach angle almost back to stock, nullifying any good the dropped chain case did for the sled.

 

[mntmaster]

What Rick! said...

In this pic of SnowDawgs tunnel... you can see the new suspension location mounted back and down from the stock location...This is typical to the install.

If you don't, the inside fo the track will rub on the upper cross tube of the front swing arm... it is pretty close when stock... move the track down 1" and you will see what I'm talking about.

There is a way to fix this so you dont have to move the suspension bolt down on a stock suspension and you wont have a rubbing problem. After comparing 2 sleds, one moved down and one not (but no rubbing) it makes a difference. I've bit my tounge on this for 2 years and cant believe no one else has thought of it.

 

[mountainhorse]

I'm running a kmod and I have an avid case 1" down 1" back. And I have The skid in the stock location, I had to cut 1/2 inch off the tips of the rails. Running 8 tooth drivers and it handles awesome. Way better than when the skid was down and back. It still has lots of clearance

Can you take a photo and post it up here... I sincerely would like to see that area. 8tooth drivers and a 1"x1" D&R??

Does anyone have a timbersled skid that has figured out how to make it work without having to mount the front arm in a lower position, I would think lowering the front arm would steepen your approach angle almost back to stock, nullifying any good the dropped chain case did for the sled.

In regards to track clearance (inside portion of the track clearing the drive-nubs and track on the cross shaft) I don't see any difference in what brand of skid you use... stock K-mod, T-sled, etc... that mounts to the stock location. Which is why I'm curious as to how this clears if moved down that far.... almost an inch even taking into account the slightly larger (0.15") 3" pitch 8-tooth compared to a 2.86 pitch 8-tooth... Unless the swing arm idlers are running full time on the track or you have 9 tooth drivers??

Mark? Kevin? Pics??

As you can see above... I think highly of the CMX drive... and the K-Mod suspension that Kevin builds is top notch as well... Truly trying to learn here.








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[mountainhorse]

Does anyone have a timbersled skid that has figured out how to make it work without having to mount the front arm in a lower position, I would think lowering the front arm would steepen your approach angle almost back to stock, nullifying any good the dropped chain case did for the sled.

...

​

 

[richracer1]

The rails Kevin currently supplies with the turn-key KMOD skid have been designed to be further away from the drivers, thus allowing a D&R w/o moving the skid back to clear the drivers. I saw a T-Pro he had at the Boise Snow Show that had the CMX drive, 3" CE, 8T drivers, and of course his complete skid mounted in the stock front track arm location. There's plenty of room and when I asked about this he mentioned that he now has his current rails designed to work with this combination.

 

[429dhm]

The rails Kevin currently supplies with the turn-key KMOD skid have been designed to be further away from the drivers, thus allowing a D&R w/o moving the skid back to clear the drivers. I saw a T-Pro he had at the Boise Snow Show that had the CMX drive, 3" CE, 8T drivers, and of course his complete skid mounted in the stock front track arm location. There's plenty of room and when I asked about this he mentioned that he now has his current rails designed to work with this combination.

Based on those statements then the following should apply; Kmod turn key rear skid, CMX drive with 3" pitch 8 tooth drivers, and a power claw 2.6 would fit without drilling new holes for the front suspension arm. Sounds like my mods for next season have been decided today.

 

[richracer1]

Based on those statements then the following should apply; Kmod turn key rear skid, CMX drive with 3" pitch 8 tooth drivers, and a power claw 2.6 would fit without drilling new holes for the front suspension arm. Sounds like my mods for next season have been decided today.

Give Kevin at KMOD a call...absolutely great guy to deal with and get information from before buying anything if you're interested in the KMOD suspension system.

 

[Xcelerated performance]

I will post up a pic later of the kmod and CMX belt drive

 

[mountainhorse]

The rails Kevin currently supplies with the turn-key KMOD skid have been designed to be further away from the drivers, thus allowing a D&R w/o moving the skid back to clear the drivers. I saw a T-Pro he had at the Boise Snow Show that had the CMX drive, 3" CE, 8T drivers, and of course his complete skid mounted in the stock front track arm location. There's plenty of room and when I asked about this he mentioned that he now has his current rails designed to work with this combination.

I'm not concerned with the rails/driveshaft though I can appreciate the rail shape and the ability to accommodate the roll.

Good comments here... keep em rolling.









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[assault11]

I'm not concerned with the rails/driveshaft though I can appreciate the rail shape and the ability to accommodate the roll.

Good comments here... keep em rolling.









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Hard to tell but I've got about 3/8" clearance

 

[KMOD]

Kevin....Sincere question... no smart azz intent...trying to learn here... and I have respect for your products and Marks too.

How can a track that is moved down .82" closer to the front arm still clear the drive nubs on the front swing arm upper cross-shaft-tube on any suspension with the cross tube/shaft mounted in the stock RMK location?

Does it ride full time on the small idlers of the front-upper swing arm cross tube?

Do you have any pix of the inside of the track at the front swing arm upper cross shaft?


The front arm was redesigned on the 2012-2013 K MOD skid. It moves the cross tube that the shock is mounted to, back 1'', which will also lower the shock mount height, because its moved down the length of the arm when its installed in the vehicle. We still have equal length arms and the geometry hasn't changed.
This lets us get a stronger shock ratio and also gives more clearance between the track and the front arm, especially with the Avid or CMX drop and roll.
Rail tips cleared with the 8 tooth drivers, but were very close. So all rails made since early fall were shortened 3/8''.
Here is a couple of photos of our skid, so you can see the new front arm.
Kevin

 

[mountainhorse]

AH Ha...Now I get it.

Thanks Kevin...

In Allied's post .... the wear-loops look like they have been in contact often with the track.... Why the shift away from the rollers in that location?

Good looking skid.




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[KMOD]

AH Ha...Now I get it.

Thanks Kevin...

In Allied's post .... the wear-loops look like they have been in contact often with the track.... Why the shift away from the rollers in that location?

Good looking skid.




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The wear loops are doing just what they are intended to do, keep the track off the arm and shock. Still very close with the drop and roll but enough clearance for sure. The key to better handling with the drop and roll, IMO is to keep the front arm in the stock position.
There was no way to keep the front idlers when we moved the shock mount.
Thanks for your comments Eric.
Kevin