CMX belt drive on new pro

[Kcjepperson]

No, my sled has a par 910, cmx belt drive, timbersled mt tamer rear, z bro shocks all around, peak track, z bros front end. Tunnel and plastics are all that's left stock. Her sled is bone stock (her choice)

 

[Kcjepperson]

Here is a picture of how far down the cover is for the bottom pulley

 

[pura vida]

wow, yeah that is a beautiful setup but i'm guessing it wouldn't take me long at all before i destroyed the break rotor. i'd be sure to hit something. 2 inches is a pretty significant exposure actually. that is the only negative i could see with that system.

pv

 

[Kcjepperson]

I ride a lot in the trees, ditches and whatever harsh terrain imaginable and when I took that pitcure I was looking to see if I have even scraped it and it doesn't have a scratch on it.

 

[geo]

PV. Have you ever ripped the snow deflector in front of the exh. outlet off?
2" seems like a lot until you see the same pic with a stocker.
I built my own bash guard there and used 1/4" UHM molded to the stock belly pan shape. It's just about 2".
I thought I read that CMX provides a aluminum guard across the front too to protect the lowered drivers. True?

 

[pura vida]

ahhhh, good point. no i have not and it also sticks down about 2 inches. it does have more surface area but that might not end up being much of an issue. like anything, if you got unlucky i'm sure it would be possible to damage it. i'd love to try it but just don't see spending the money on it. then again, after blowing three qd belts in 250 miles...


what i'd like to know is if those who have changed to either the cmx or c3, have you had to change your clutching at all??

pv

 

[mountainhorse]

The stock "bolt in" replacement is a strong possibility... that would not stick down (or back for that matter) much more than stock.

Would be a cool option for those that don't want or need to cut.... And there would still be the option to buy the current D&R version if you chose to go that route.


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[Kcjepperson]

If you look at the front angle of the guard and the angle of the track they are almost the exact angle, with the lugs being lower than the guard, meaning you would have to miss the stump, rock, etc completely with the track to hit the gaurd. I think it would have to be a freak occurrence to actually hit the guard.

As far as clutching changes, I have had to do minor clutching changes, just because I chose the 2:14 gearing. I love playing in the trees and river bottoms and wanted to have that instant snap of the throttle. I am pulling heavier weights and a steeper helix. Really trying different helix's now. I am still working on clutching at the moment, getting close but not perfect.

3 qd belts at almost 200.00 a pop, you are a quarter of the way to owning your own cmx system. I could not be happier with the belt drive system. I have no worries what so ever about a belt breaking or the track shaft falling apart. It's a great piece of mind.

 

[gopher-it!]

drop @roll

If you look at the front angle of the guard and the angle of the track they are almost the exact angle, with the lugs being lower than the guard, meaning you would have to miss the stump, rock, etc completely with the track to hit the gaurd. I think it would have to be a freak occurrence to actually hit the guard.

As far as clutching changes, I have had to do minor clutching changes, just because I chose the 2:14 gearing. I love playing in the trees and river bottoms and wanted to have that instant snap of the throttle. I am pulling heavier weights and a steeper helix. Really trying different helix's now. I am still working on clutching at the moment, getting close but not perfect.

3 qd belts at almost 200.00 a pop, you are a quarter of the way to owning your own cmx system. I could not be happier with the belt drive system. I have no worries what so ever about a belt breaking or the track shaft falling apart. It's a great piece of mind.

What changes to the rear suspention mounting did you have to do for the drop and roll?

 

[Kcjepperson]

Nothing on rear suspension, I thought I would have to but after talking mark at cmx you leave it in the stock location which gives you a better approach angle to get up on the snow quicker.

 

[mountainhorse]

KC... Can you take a photo of the rear-suspensions front-swing-arm??... interested in seeing that

Thx.

 

[Rick!]

What changes to the rear suspention mounting did you have to do for the drop and roll?

Nothing on rear suspension, I thought I would have to but after talking mark at cmx you leave it in the stock location which gives you a better approach angle to get up on the snow quicker.

I think the whole skid is adjusted back to fit the drive axle's new position. The mounting positions are adapted to the stock suspension pad locations. At least that's the way it looked when I was at his shop a few weeks back.

 

[mountainhorse]

What Rick! said...

In this pic of SnowDawgs tunnel... you can see the new suspension location mounted back and down from the stock location...This is typical to the install.

If you don't, the inside fo the track will rub on the upper cross tube of the front swing arm... it is pretty close when stock... move the track down 1" and you will see what I'm talking about.

 

[Kcjepperson]

Yes I will get some pictures tonight. I think something could be galling like Mtn horse said, I have the mountain tamer suspension and I am really close to just putting the stock one back in. I have tried different shock rates and nothing seems to help. It it a stiff suspension with no preload on any of the springs and I am running the lightest spring Nate (z bros) would recommend running. So any help I can get it that department would be much appreciated.

I am pretty sure right now the skid is in the stock locations on the tunnel both front and rear locations. I looked at my wife's sled and her rails are closer to the drive axles then mine are. I have the anti stab wheels on so I lose a little length not having the rubber ends on the front of the rail.

The track is super close to the loops on the front arm of the skid. Not sure if they are rubbing though

 

[Kcjepperson]

Taken from the cmx belt drive thread in the mountain/powder section, Mark wrote this:
Quote:
Originally Posted by 429dhm
Do you have to move the rear skid back when you install the CMX drive?
No. It stays in stock location. There is more than enough adjustment to obtain proper track tension (1" to 1 1/2" hanging below the rails). The kit also come with a Wahl Bros Anti-Ratchet Drivers & Anti-Stab Wheel kit for the front of the rails.

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[Rick!]

Looks like my bad. Maybe it's the Kmod or M10 that moves back? That means I get to do a 3" Extreme this summer with a belt on my beater without drilling 4 extra holes.

 

[Kcjepperson]

I did notice tonight while I was taking pictures that the loops on the top of the front a arm and the top of the shock tabs are rubbing on the inside of the track I done think it is all the time but you can tell they are rubbing. Any suggestions on the asjustment I need to do to get them not to rub or getter clearance?

 

[Kcjepperson]

I don't think it would be the k mod that is what mark is running on his cmx-x.

 

[Anthony Oberti]

MH. How much $$ we talking for this stock replacement kit?

 

[mountainhorse]

Same price... just no mods to the chassis.



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