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Clutching the P-22 Boost

I could almost see this coming when I got a P22 last year to look at...I don't see a alum spline (spider) lasting long on a steel spline (fixed sheave) ...with the power and use of brakes this spline will wear, it has to...I have been in racing for decades and this has been done since I can remember, each time the spine wear out sooner than one wants...Every time you hit the brake it tries to stop the clutch, this back and forth action is hard on the splines!! time will tell...TJ
 
I could almost see this coming when I got a P22 last year to look at...I don't see a alum spline (spider) lasting long on a steel spline (fixed sheave) ...with the power and use of brakes this spline will wear, it has to...I have been in racing for decades and this has been done since I can remember, each time the spine wear out sooner than one wants...Every time you hit the brake it tries to stop the clutch, this back and forth action is hard on the splines!! time will tell...TJ
Great explanation TJ. I totally agree .
We have had the same concern.
There will be a P85 on mine when it shows up.
 
I could almost see this coming when I got a P22 last year to look at...I don't see a alum spline (spider) lasting long on a steel spline (fixed sheave) ...with the power and use of brakes this spline will wear, it has to...I have been in racing for decades and this has been done since I can remember, each time the spine wear out sooner than one wants...Every time you hit the brake it tries to stop the clutch, this back and forth action is hard on the splines!! time will tell...TJ
So don’t use the brakes you say? ?
 
I could almost see this coming when I got a P22 last year to look at...I don't see a alum spline (spider) lasting long on a steel spline (fixed sheave) ...with the power and use of brakes this spline will wear, it has to...I have been in racing for decades and this has been done since I can remember, each time the spine wear out sooner than one wants...Every time you hit the brake it tries to stop the clutch, this back and forth action is hard on the splines!! time will tell...TJ


You’re totally correct. All of the OEM vehicle makers have had transmissions at one time suffer with premature stripped splines. That spider will most likely need a steel case hardened splines or a redesign.
 
We are working with BD weights, right now, for the P22. Very pleased with the results.
The turbo likes 8500 with a hot pipe.
Is Boondocker making wts Tony or are you talking BDX? I’d assume these are Polaris 18 profile or have you located some with the lightening profile you usually tune with?
 
The dyno is a tool. Parameters in the field change from dyno runs.
You surly can run yours at 8250. After field testing the last 2 weeks I’ll run mine closer to 8500.
The NA 850 dyno runs reflect a low RPM as well. Wick it to 8350, in the field, and it’s like turning on a light switch.
Just my opinion.
 
The P22 and the boost have a strange set up. The primary has 78 gram weights, and a 165/310 spring. Based off of last year and the slip it had it will require less spring and a weight that is more tip heavy. I will be using the EPI 74g BBPT weights with a 145/280 spring. The helix is too much for that much weight and doesnt have enough spring pressure. If you look at the graphs the stock set up is prone to slip on initial engagement and past 0.6" of shift with less then 400lbs of belt pressure. Basically where you will be when climbing under WOT. If you look at the belt pressure on the helix that i will be running vs the stock, it has much better belt hold and will have stronger mid range while maintaining top end pull and RPM much better then the final 44 angle on the stock helix. Lots of good information here.

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I could almost see this coming when I got a P22 last year to look at...I don't see a alum spline (spider) lasting long on a steel spline (fixed sheave) ...with the power and use of brakes this spline will wear, it has to...I have been in racing for decades and this has been done since I can remember, each time the spine wear out sooner than one wants...Every time you hit the brake it tries to stop the clutch, this back and forth action is hard on the splines!! time will tell...TJ
i strongly disagree. and point to the fact some of us have probably transfered close to threehundred as in THREE hundred horsepower through the DRIVEN clutch and then locked it up immediately, I have been useing a hand balanced team tssoFOUR in all my mods and it has no shaft slop. I WOULD SAY... that there IS a reason for the TAPER of the crank/ primary clutch that has been a staple of snowmobile design. SO much so i know you can pull the bolt out until someone at race tech sees that bs and stops ya. Not recomending anything here other than i REALLY hope this is a non issue as far as engine life is concerned, it will be A BIG DEAL and cause long lasting reliability issues if primarys start walking off
 
i strongly disagree. and point to the fact some of us have probably transfered close to threehundred as in THREE hundred horsepower through the DRIVEN clutch and then locked it up immediately, I have been useing a hand balanced team tssoFOUR in all my mods and it has no shaft slop. I WOULD SAY... that there IS a reason for the TAPER of the crank/ primary clutch that has been a staple of snowmobile design. SO much so i know you can pull the bolt out until someone at race tech sees that bs and stops ya. Not recomending anything here other than i REALLY hope this is a non issue as far as engine life is concerned, it will be A BIG DEAL and cause long lasting reliability issues if primarys start walking off

Clarke,
But the TSS-04 is steel on steel. The P22 is an aluminum spider on a steel splined shaft.
If the clutch bolt is missing on the P22, the clutch falls apart.
 
i strongly disagree. and point to the fact some of us have probably transfered close to threehundred as in THREE hundred horsepower through the DRIVEN clutch and then locked it up immediately, I have been useing a hand balanced team tssoFOUR in all my mods and it has no shaft slop. I WOULD SAY... that there IS a reason for the TAPER of the crank/ primary clutch that has been a staple of snowmobile design. SO much so i know you can pull the bolt out until someone at race tech sees that bs and stops ya. Not recomending anything here other than i REALLY hope this is a non issue as far as engine life is concerned, it will be A BIG DEAL and cause long lasting reliability issues if primarys start walking off
I think we are talking about 2 different clutches!! are you using a splined quick change clutch? Have you seen or used a P22 clutch on your sleds? Alum spline (spider) and steel spline (fixed sheave) together don't last long..
 
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